Hmm, on consideration, that probably applies to the single series resistor as well.
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Has anybody successfully integrated one of these into their lightspeed attenuator?
Remote Control
I ask because I am hoping to integrate a remote control pot that does not affect the signal path purity, and a combination of this and the lightspeed would seem to be just that. The remote pot would control the Vdc of the leds, nothing more. The switcher is just by relays, controlled by some nasty non-audio grade electronics that is isolated from the signal path.
Remote Control
I ask because I am hoping to integrate a remote control pot that does not affect the signal path purity, and a combination of this and the lightspeed would seem to be just that. The remote pot would control the Vdc of the leds, nothing more. The switcher is just by relays, controlled by some nasty non-audio grade electronics that is isolated from the signal path.
I friend ask me the same question and to maybe make it an opinal extra for my production Lightspeed Attenuator, I said my product is so reliable I have never had one back yet for repair or service out of hundreds around the planet, do you think it will stay that way if I put this into it?
For the indivdual to do it themselves it's fine so I said to him to get it for himself, and gave him some pointers below.
You need to make sure that the pot is log not lin, also you will have to do some surgical work to the pot board as it is meant to be a replacement for normal volume controls not the Lightspeed, as it works as you probally know totally different.
I wouldn't use the input swicthing board either as I have heard those relays in the siganal path compared to going direct. And the you will aslo need 12acv for this motor drive so you will need another wall wart. And last thing is how long will that remote last? and are they going to be available in the future?
Cheers George
For the indivdual to do it themselves it's fine so I said to him to get it for himself, and gave him some pointers below.
You need to make sure that the pot is log not lin, also you will have to do some surgical work to the pot board as it is meant to be a replacement for normal volume controls not the Lightspeed, as it works as you probally know totally different.
I wouldn't use the input swicthing board either as I have heard those relays in the siganal path compared to going direct. And the you will aslo need 12acv for this motor drive so you will need another wall wart. And last thing is how long will that remote last? and are they going to be available in the future?
Cheers George
Are you dismissing relay based input switchers in general or these in particular?
I ask because I have a much higher quality relay switcher, that uses 12v triggered relays that have gold plated silver connectors that mate perfectly, and keep the signal path much shorter than a rotary switcher, which has small and usually lousy alloy spring connectors.
I use several sources, primarily Vinyl, DAC and Tuner, so I need a switcher of some sort.
I ask because I have a much higher quality relay switcher, that uses 12v triggered relays that have gold plated silver connectors that mate perfectly, and keep the signal path much shorter than a rotary switcher, which has small and usually lousy alloy spring connectors.
I use several sources, primarily Vinyl, DAC and Tuner, so I need a switcher of some sort.
I have even tried what's considered the best, mercury based relays, and gold plated contact, they can all be heard to have a slight detriment compared to direct connection, as they are all a light pressure contact, unless you get some 50amp jobs they have stronger pressure contact but are huge in size and maybe not available in gold plate, and there are some silver contact ones, also but remember silver tarnishes very quickly.
Cheers George
Cheers George
I'm using one of these with a udailey board and I'm very happy with it . I'm not using the input switching board. To use the control board you have to cut some earth traces on the pcb. Take a look here:http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/grou...-control-professional-pcb-29.html#post2168298
This is something i'm interested in too.
I was thinking of lowering the 5 volts but have not yet tried it.
For those who follow Stereophile, the Lightspeed Attenuator has made it into "Class B" with a $$$ value tag in the October issue.
I received an anonymous email saying if your wondering why it didn't get into "Class A" just have a look, nothing below 10K, it will never happen.
Cheers George
I received an anonymous email saying if your wondering why it didn't get into "Class A" just have a look, nothing below 10K, it will never happen.
Cheers George
Hi
Thanks Uriah - a nice family image
I have a Monovolt PK 30 5 volt pro rack mount SMPS spare.
Would this be too noisy and should I stick to a 5 volt wallwart
for starters ?
If it's in the thread already I apologise - I have not read it all... yet
Does buying matched pairs of LDR's from you mean there'll be no channel imbalance issues at all ?
Have all the bits ready now as you suggested - many thanks for your great e mails and help.
Regards
Andrew
Thanks Uriah - a nice family image
I have a Monovolt PK 30 5 volt pro rack mount SMPS spare.
Would this be too noisy and should I stick to a 5 volt wallwart
for starters ?
If it's in the thread already I apologise - I have not read it all... yet
Does buying matched pairs of LDR's from you mean there'll be no channel imbalance issues at all ?
Have all the bits ready now as you suggested - many thanks for your great e mails and help.
Regards
Andrew
Andrew,
I would not use a SMPS or wallwart. George uses a wallwart but he uses a linear one and it will be hard to find a linear wallwart. While waiting you might want to put together a 5VDC supply with a toroid, plenty of capacitance on input and output of voltage regulator.
I match the LDRs at 4 commonly used points. They will match those 4 points and presumably almost all points between. I tested at 5 points for a while but it didnt produce any fewer matches than 4 points which would indicate 4 is optimum.
Feel free to shoot questions to my email or keep them coming here. Its good to keep the thread active to.
BTW the better your supply the better the sound quality. Do a bit of research on google and find maybe some app notes that will help you build something with low noise. You will need to build a supply capable of at least 50ma as max draw will be about 40ma.
Uriah
I would not use a SMPS or wallwart. George uses a wallwart but he uses a linear one and it will be hard to find a linear wallwart. While waiting you might want to put together a 5VDC supply with a toroid, plenty of capacitance on input and output of voltage regulator.
I match the LDRs at 4 commonly used points. They will match those 4 points and presumably almost all points between. I tested at 5 points for a while but it didnt produce any fewer matches than 4 points which would indicate 4 is optimum.
Feel free to shoot questions to my email or keep them coming here. Its good to keep the thread active to.
BTW the better your supply the better the sound quality. Do a bit of research on google and find maybe some app notes that will help you build something with low noise. You will need to build a supply capable of at least 50ma as max draw will be about 40ma.
Uriah