Guys, do you ever find useful placing this thing on the entrance of DCB1? I'm ordering a box and might grab it to ship together.
I ve been using these in mine as a complete solution for switch, fuse box and IEC.
FN389B-6-21 Schaffner | Mouser
I have no complaints so far. Not that I have done any significant tests with and without it
FN389B-6-21 Schaffner | Mouser
I have no complaints so far. Not that I have done any significant tests with and without it
OK I got to finish the front and back panels today.
I routed the IEC slot with a template I made out of some 4mm plywood scraps.
I also routed some of the wood where necessary to allow hardware to be properly screwed. I should have made a template for those too, but since they are not visible, I cba to do it...
And if you look close enough on the top right of the knob, you will see a tiny 1,5mm hole for a led
You can actually see it more easily on the back where I drilled a huge hole to allow the led to reach the surface of the front.
Now on the knob issue, the oil gave it a really awesome orangish tint that makes the maple really amazing. I will keep this after all. It will just require some more sanding...
One more thing I have to decide is if I will use dowels to hold it together, or some inner skeleton wenge beams
I routed the IEC slot with a template I made out of some 4mm plywood scraps.
I also routed some of the wood where necessary to allow hardware to be properly screwed. I should have made a template for those too, but since they are not visible, I cba to do it...
And if you look close enough on the top right of the knob, you will see a tiny 1,5mm hole for a led
You can actually see it more easily on the back where I drilled a huge hole to allow the led to reach the surface of the front.Now on the knob issue, the oil gave it a really awesome orangish tint that makes the maple really amazing. I will keep this after all. It will just require some more sanding...
One more thing I have to decide is if I will use dowels to hold it together, or some inner skeleton wenge beams
Attachments
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Dry fitting everything to see if I forgot something. All seems ok.
Tomorrow I will start drilling the plate and heatsinks. And if I have time, I will glue and screw the panels tightly.
In the meantime, I have to get some more wood to make the top lid and figure out a nice layout for it to allow ventilation.
Tomorrow I will start drilling the plate and heatsinks. And if I have time, I will glue and screw the panels tightly.
In the meantime, I have to get some more wood to make the top lid and figure out a nice layout for it to allow ventilation.
Attachments
Finally finished the board and turned it on. Three leds per rail are glowing, the rest had to be resoldered due to mixed up markings on the board. Now it's fine and working with some rather small spare toroid i have found in the closet it's only 70x30mm with no markings at all that leaves me thinking of some 30va, not much for a hod rod, but ok for testing. I put it with 3w Dale 6 ohm resistors and got about 2.1vdc across them, so i'm only in the beginning of burning the house
One thing needs to be clarified though, i have 12v relay and it seems to behave quite weird to my mind - kind of some whispering all the time and it activates only after a couple of minutes once VDC reaches 5v (it starts with ~2.5), then after 5 min it shows about 6.66vdc with the same annoying sound still there. Relay was bought from german shop via ebay, could it be defective or this is the right way it should work and sound here?!
it's only 70x30mm with no markings at all that leaves me thinking of some 30va, not much for a hod rod, but ok for testing. I put it with 3w Dale 6 ohm resistors and got about 2.1vdc across them, so i'm only in the beginning of burning the house One thing needs to be clarified though, i have 12v relay and it seems to behave quite weird to my mind - kind of some whispering all the time and it activates only after a couple of minutes once VDC reaches 5v (it starts with ~2.5), then after 5 min it shows about 6.66vdc with the same annoying sound still there. Relay was bought from german shop via ebay, could it be defective or this is the right way it should work and sound here?!
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Morning,
thanks for the help!
dimkasta
sure!
Salas
I have BC517 bought from the shop with BC517 printing on it. Anyway, I've added mkt as you suggested and it solved the noise issue. Though I still do not understand what is wrong with my BC517?! or could it be bc550? the last one was found in a closet too, so I don't remember when and where I bought it
What is the time for relay to click? it's about 40sec now, is it ok and could it be altered to some 5-10? now it's switching on 6vdc and goes up to 10.6v.
thanks for the help!
dimkasta
sure!
Salas
I have BC517 bought from the shop with BC517 printing on it. Anyway, I've added mkt as you suggested and it solved the noise issue. Though I still do not understand what is wrong with my BC517?! or could it be bc550? the last one was found in a closet too, so I don't remember when and where I bought it
What is the time for relay to click? it's about 40sec now, is it ok and could it be altered to some 5-10? now it's switching on 6vdc and goes up to 10.6v.
a darlington bc517 is not the correct way to switch a relay.
Use two separate transistors. A driver to tell the switcher to activate the relay coil.
Set the switcher to ~hFE=10 for lowest Vsat (10mV to 100mV) while ON.
The lowest Vsat for darlington is ~700mV and that is a big proportion of a 5V supply feeding a 5V relay coil.
Use two separate transistors. A driver to tell the switcher to activate the relay coil.
Set the switcher to ~hFE=10 for lowest Vsat (10mV to 100mV) while ON.
The lowest Vsat for darlington is ~700mV and that is a big proportion of a 5V supply feeding a 5V relay coil.
Morning,
thanks for the help!
dimkasta
sure!
Salas
I have BC517 bought from the shop with BC517 printing on it. Anyway, I've added mkt as you suggested and it solved the noise issue. Though I still do not understand what is wrong with my BC517?! or could it be bc550? the last one was found in a closet too, so I don't remember when and where I bought it
What is the time for relay to click? it's about 40sec now, is it ok and could it be altered to some 5-10? now it's switching on 6vdc and goes up to 10.6v.
What part number of relay is that? Have you got a jumper where the PCB has "note" since you said its a 12V type? Have you installed the diode under the relay in the right way? BC517 and the proper relays by Omron, Nais TQ series, or NEC had 100% score of working together in the multitude of builds referred here at least. They normally take a couple of seconds to click.
