Zaph SR-71 On-wall??

[Tehtoril]

Hello

In a couple of days I'm moving to a smaller place, but I don't want to build myself an entirely new set of speakers, while I'm very pleased of my Zaph SR-71 monitors.
The problem is lack of space for any type of stands. There is absolute no option, that I could fit a pair of speakers 1 meter from nearest wall or even closer.
So the question is - do any of You got a clue on how can I change these speakers to an On-wall version without any audible difference for worse?
Of course I'm fully aware, that I will have to build a new enclosures from the scratch.
But i got no idea what dimensions should it have and where to put Bass Reflex port.
Same with the parts inside..

Can somebody help me, please?

 

[sreten]

Hi,

You could use the reduced baffle step option shown by Zaph.

For wall mounting :

Take the front baffle and add angled sides all round, say 40 degrees
back, recalculate the reduced box depth with the extra volume to suit.

For the port I'd suggest truncating the base of the speaker and
adding a full width slot port in front of the rear baffle, though
you could build the port into the general bevel of the speaker.

No guarantees, but you need big bevels to avoid real problems.
A simpler but not as good option is big bevels left and right only.

rgds, sreten.

Bracing is complicated but probably only needed front to back,
and a couple of very effective sections in the long slot port.

 

[Silent Screamer]

Are you talking something that might look like the old Klipsch SS1?(without the side drivers)

I was thinking of something like that for my rears mounted on the wall.

 

[ODougbo]

I built a pair of SR-71s (kit) but my pair didn't sound right, if fact they were down right awful I wrote to MS and sent pics; there were no mistakes and followed the plans (except walls were lined with sheet lead??)

However I've heard other pairs that sounded great, amazing really. Point is - I'd be very weary of changing the box parameters; I have read some other folks were also concerned about re-designing the cabinet shape.

 

[Silent Screamer]

You wouldn't necessarily need to alter your existing cabinet if it now works, you could just add triangles to the sides that aren't structurally part of the speaker.

 

[tvrgeek]

Prototype, prototype, prototype.

What can you do with the front wall? In one of my rooms, I have 4 x 6 foot 2 inch compressed FG absorbers. The effect on imaging and balance is hard to explain. I wish I could do it in my main room.

 

[ODougbo]

A good place to start is the same box & port size, but down fire the port (vs. the back).

Round over all the front edges, with large round over bit.

I don't think you want to have a front port, might pick up too much middle from the back of the speaker (driver inside).

 

[ODougbo]

I wish I had another set of SR71 drivers/xo's and could take another crack at building boxes. [I don't have these anymore]

So here is a thought for front ports - you can add them to the sides of your box.

And/or get fancy and make flare ports (second pic) - I've done this a few times - it seems to lower the bass.

 

[Tehtoril]

So, we got front BR port vs down firing one. And i have doubts..
Are You sure, that ports on bottom walls won't add too much bass while hanging on a wall?
Do not get me wrong, I'm not saying, that You're not right. I just haven't got any occasion to hear any wall-mounted speakers with ports on the bottom..

 

[sreten]

Hi, there are no real issues with using ports for wall mounted speakers, rgds, sreten.

 

[Tehtoril]

Thanks Sreten. I'm trying to imagine what You've wrote in Your first post. Language is still a little barrier for me. Could You please draw a simple sketch of what You think would be the best idea?
It would be much appreciated

 

[sreten]

Hi,

Its a cabinet with angled side walls around, e.g. with 45 degree walls,
a 200mm x 350mm front baffle and an overall depth of 100mm the
rear baffle would measure 400mm x 550mm. You can square off
the rear of the cabinet a little to reduce the rear size.

rgds, sreten.

 

[ODougbo]

@sreten,

Q. It might get a bit crowed in the box with the xo (which is somewhat large), if the xo is mounted elsewhere - how long can the 4 (each) wires be? E.G. could they be next to the amp and run 12' wires.

Tehtoril - I think your best bet is to move the port(s) to the bottom, you may have to use two smaller ports flanking each other.

 

[Tehtoril]

So, You mean something like this:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

?

 

[ODougbo]

I think that is it -

BTW - you could still use existing boxes with mods.

 

[Tehtoril]

Nah, too much work - my SR-71's are floorstanders
I'd rather make whole new cabinets :]

 

[ODougbo]

Are they the same as pic in post #13? (send a pic).

btw, looks like you can fit PVC ports behind dowel if you come up from the bottom (again post 13).

 

[Tehtoril]

They're not as good looking as Yours, cause I haven't finished the visual side (guess I got too lazy after first listening test:] ).
Altough, they are fully assembled and 100% working :]
I'll try to make a pic and put it here after work.
But right now I'm in a middle of rebuilding my future apartment, so I already paid an advance to the best cabinet-carpenter in my country.
He's my guarantee, that it will be solid, fast and like-good-furniture-looking

 

[ODougbo]

Belt Sand and Formica them.

btw, you can make a slot port with the same volume/area of the existing port.
Make it the same volume of existing port - fill them with sand if you want to double check the volume.

The ploy here is the the slot can fit behind the woofer.