carlosfm said:Rudi, what does 'GECO AUDIO' means?
Hi Carlos thanks for joining us.
I have lots of little gecko's around our house so i played with the word a bit - so it ended up with a variation of deco and gecko.
see i am actually a architect and i do not know much about the laws of electronics. just how to make them sound better.
I suspect I'm of the bass loving types... my dad was a drummer for 25 years, and one of my my first memories is crawling up and going to sleep on the cushion he packed in the bassdrum bottom to damp it.
Geckos are little lizzards, that can hang on rocks and walls.
Geckos are little lizzards, that can hang on rocks and walls.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
t. said:This will probably be my last chipamp project after a few more mods to this one, I'm going to try the Hypex classD modules next
Leo, I know you are a 'hardcore' diyer and you don't need kits or available PCBs to build something.
Before you go on switching your outputs [joke], give this a try.
I don't know if I'm still on time, you are the one who knows what you wanna do next, but I guarantee you very, very rewarding results.
Attachments
rudi said:I have lots of little gecko's around our house so i played with the word a bit - so it ended up with a variation of deco and gecko.
But what is a 'gecko'?
What does that mean?
Sorry to bother you with this.
Edit: I see. Thanks, Nordic.
Peter Daniel said:
And what is your reference when you compare those two types of diodes (by saying one adds, the other does not)?
Hi Peter,
In this amp the Mur860's made the bass sound slightly artificial, a bit like cranking the bass up on a graphic eq if that makes sense, it was deeper but became less defined, the high also seemed slightly rolled off (more warm) compared to the schottkies
The MUR860's do seem to work very well with the standard GC amps but they just didn't work well for me in this amp.
Its all personal opinions of course
carlosfm said:
But what is a 'gecko'?
What does that mean?
Sorry to bother you with this.
see the pic that Nordic posted
Hi Leo,
I was asking because in a past I was using LM3875 both with baterry supply and AC supply (with MUR860 diodes) and I noticed very little difference in tonality beetween the two.
Battery supply appeared dynamically challenged in a long run and too smooth for my taste.
I was asking because in a past I was using LM3875 both with baterry supply and AC supply (with MUR860 diodes) and I noticed very little difference in tonality beetween the two.
Battery supply appeared dynamically challenged in a long run and too smooth for my taste.
carlosfm said:
Leo, I know you are a 'hardcore' diyer and you don't need kits or available PCBs to build something.
Before you go on switching your outputs [joke], give this a try.
I don't know if I'm still on time, you are the one who knows what you wanna do next, but I guarantee you very, very rewarding results.
Thank you Carlos
I'd love to try this as soon as I can open it
The UCD180's have already been ordered but its something else to try, adding another to my already huge pile of amps won't hurt, its another raved about thing these classd modules so I guess its got to be tried at least
Peter Daniel said:Hi Leo,
I was asking because in a past I was using LM3875 both with baterry supply and AC supply (with MUR860 diodes) and I noticed very little difference in tonality beetween the two.
Battery supply appeared dynamically challenged in a long run and too smooth for my taste.
Hi Peter,
Well I've also took your opinions serious regarding conponents especially after trying out the polarity of the BG N caps, I'm still shocked at the noticeable difference it makes
Its strange that I didn't like the MUR860's in this amp, maybe its just the design
I admit to liking the MUR860's probably best with the GC amps though and the Schottkies better if regulators are used
rudi said:t. download them and rename them with a .zip at the end then it works fine
Carlos you hijacker - just kidding
Cheers Rudi!
I'll give it a try
t. said:
I admit to liking the MUR860's probably best with the GC amps though and the Schottkies better if regulators are used
T , just somehting that i have noticed. with the X the MBR 10100 were better, and with a snubber evenmore so. but you will let us know when you build yours. it was a compromise because i need to do the entrire spectrum with the amp and for that reason i chose the MUR860
NB: anybody that wants to build the amp with MBR10100 should be aware that you would not have all the bass you are used to. and if you have a small speaker system then the MBR are not recommended. but with a proper fullrange system you will be richly rewarded
Thats better, nice one Rudi
I'll let you know as soon as I can get the new board built, this is going to be a busy month for me
It goes quite for a while and all these projects come at once
Sorry to go off topic
Thats an interesting looking pre-amp Carlos
I've actually got a couple of those SMD AD815's but never used them for anything yet, I can easily modify your amp and implement the AD815 if I can find my magnifying glass and tweezers
Is there any threads with the layout? I could build this easy enough from your schematic but how did you manage to fit all the parts so close to the chip, its tiny
I could cheat and etch a board but no doubt its not as good as a tightly done p2p
I'll let you know as soon as I can get the new board built, this is going to be a busy month for me
It goes quite for a while and all these projects come at once
Sorry to go off topic
Thats an interesting looking pre-amp Carlos
I've actually got a couple of those SMD AD815's but never used them for anything yet, I can easily modify your amp and implement the AD815 if I can find my magnifying glass and tweezers
Is there any threads with the layout? I could build this easy enough from your schematic but how did you manage to fit all the parts so close to the chip, its tiny
I could cheat and etch a board but no doubt its not as good as a tightly done p2p
t. said:Thats better, nice one Rudi
Did you have any problem downloading the file?
It's a .zip, with 3 .png graphic files inside...
t. said:Sorry to go off topic
Thats an interesting looking pre-amp Carlos
That may as well be the preamp of your life.
I'm not joking, this is serious.
And you can use it with whatever amp you have.
t. said:Is there any threads with the layout? I could build this easy enough from your schematic but how did you manage to fit all the parts so close to the chip, its tiny
I could cheat and etch a board but no doubt its not as good as a tightly done p2p
Leo, the chip is not tiny, even the SMD version is quite big and relatively easy to work with.
Look at the datasheet for the pinout of the SMD version.
It has a perfect pinout.
It has the PSU pins located exactly where all the op-amps should, I mean if it was an 8 leg thing that would be pins 4 and 5.
I have never made a PCB for it, although I had the intention (but no time). My prototype (on veroboard) ended up as definitive inside my pre.
Some weeks ago Peter Daniel sent me some non-smd AD815 chips and I made this test setup.
Attachments
Hi Carlos,
I could download your file but the pc would not open it, as soon as I added .zip at the end of the file name suggested by Rudi it worked fine
I've just dug out my smd AD815, your right, its not as small as I thought but I know how important the layout is so i'd like to get it right
Excellent work from you again and thanks for sharing I'll have a dig through my parts box, I've been after a nice pre for a while, I've got Nuuks tube pre to try too.
I presume an 8v reg would be ok for the nulling circuit
I could download your file but the pc would not open it, as soon as I added .zip at the end of the file name suggested by Rudi it worked fine
I've just dug out my smd AD815, your right, its not as small as I thought but I know how important the layout is so i'd like to get it right
Excellent work from you again and thanks for sharing I'll have a dig through my parts box, I've been after a nice pre for a while, I've got Nuuks tube pre to try too.
I presume an 8v reg would be ok for the nulling circuit
t. said:I presume an 8v reg would be ok for the nulling circuit
Yes, it's fine.
The small pot was described here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=39258&highlight=
In US, percyaudio.com caries good selection of pots, the $20 Nobles being pretty good choice.
In US, percyaudio.com caries good selection of pots, the $20 Nobles being pretty good choice.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Chip Amps
- X-Calibre : Hot Rodding Mauro Penasa's LM3886 design