theChris said:
Overseas shipping to most of the world is available through Global Priority Mail -- I assume that the rates would be reciprocal -- i.e. the same in Sweden to the US as US to Sweden (but haven't checked). It costs $5 for "small package" GPM, $9 for "large package" standard envelope.
For countries without GPM (like Italy and Argentina) Registered Air Mail is convenient, but more expensive.
There is a bit of labor involved in preparing the envelope as a Customs Declaration has to be filled out by hand -- only with Global Express Mail can the Customs Declaration be filled out by computer.
I decided not to do the PCB, because of a lack of interest. Why waste my time, when there is "DAS modul" or whatever 
?
Obviously T. Madsen and Peranders have this covered.
On a side note, I have decided to frequent more American friendly boards, so you won't see me around here anymore. I do check into the passlabs section once in a while, because Nelson is the man!
see ya.
Steve
?Obviously T. Madsen and Peranders have this covered.
On a side note, I have decided to frequent more American friendly boards, so you won't see me around here anymore. I do check into the passlabs section once in a while, because Nelson is the man!
see ya.
Steve
Mr Nobody I think you have got the wrong indea about things. First you start to make a pcb, build it and test it. When everything is ready you can offer it as group buy. If you are lucky there is real interest also.nobody special said:I decided not to do the PCB, because of a lack of interest. Why waste my time, when there is "DAS modul" or whatever
Obviously T. Madsen and Peranders have this covered.
On a side note, I have decided to frequent more American friendly boards, so you won't see me around here anymore. I do check into the passlabs section once in a while, because Nelson is the man!
see ya.
Steve
Das Modul exsist and everyone can buy pcb's to regular prices. If Mr. Madsen or someboby else want to make a group deal, it's up to them. At the momemt Mr. Madsen doesn't want to be in charge of any bigger deal and that's his choice.
A group deal requires enery and somebody got to do the job.
I must say that I didn't get the part "amnerican friendly boards". Do you mean that diyAudio.com is not very american friendly? Is this caused by the low intererst of your non-existing products?
Maybe it's different from USA rather than to. I can say that from Sweden it takes 2-3 days to Europe, 3-7 days to USA, 5-10 days to Australia, New Zeeland. The charge is 2-5 USD + fee for regisitered mail 8-9 USD. 10 USD in shipping from the other side of the world, is that much?theChris said:
One month of shipping??? Where do you live and where came the shipment from?
Hi All-
Please remember one individual does not speak for all here.
This board is not American "unfriendly" and people should try NOT to post when they are emotional.
It is more difficult purchasing items from across the globe, but the wonderful thing is we CAN get things from anywhere.
If cost or time makes a long distance purchases impractical that is when you design and manufacture locally. In the case of Das Modual, I am hoping some one will design and sponsor a GB on a similar board here in the US.
Eagerly watching this post:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=430298#post430298
Thanks,
Troy (who is happy to be able to visit this board)
Please remember one individual does not speak for all here.
This board is not American "unfriendly" and people should try NOT to post when they are emotional.
It is more difficult purchasing items from across the globe, but the wonderful thing is we CAN get things from anywhere.
If cost or time makes a long distance purchases impractical that is when you design and manufacture locally. In the case of Das Modual, I am hoping some one will design and sponsor a GB on a similar board here in the US.
Eagerly watching this post:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=430298#post430298
Thanks,
Troy (who is happy to be able to visit this board)
Just to chip in
"Das Modul" came out of a article to a Hi-Fi magazine for for that reason I can't make it into a group-buy. However I someone could give me a short introduction to "a group-buy" I might consider it for a "non-servo"-version of Das Modul.
If you want to get the price down for something like the PCB you need to get up to something like +100 pieces.
How will I know how many people "join" the group-buy ??
Regards
Thomas
"Das Modul" came out of a article to a Hi-Fi magazine for for that reason I can't make it into a group-buy. However I someone could give me a short introduction to "a group-buy" I might consider it for a "non-servo"-version of Das Modul.
If you want to get the price down for something like the PCB you need to get up to something like +100 pieces.
How will I know how many people "join" the group-buy ??
Regards
Thomas
Money investment *), how much?
1 Gather all wishes and design the pcb. *) One man is in charge, YOU or someone is in charge of the business and one another is in charge of the design. Make it clear from the beginning who runs the show.
2 Build one or more prototypes. Bug hunt, add features maybe. It's very important to have a ready and functional product to offer. DON'T OFFER NON-EXISTANT PRODUCTS. Compare this thread starter and also the Jung Super Regulator deal and how it started. Even if you are a pro and really skilled things can turn up and make the design not so good. Prototype first!
3 Start a wiki page and write down your offer which of course must be attractive. Be clear with what you really are offering.
4 Make people to sign up. State a last date for this.
5 Get an offer from a pcb maker.
6 Create a Paypal account so the money collecting will go easier.
7 Collect the money in advance, my recommendation. Don't risk anything if it is a low profit deal. Note low profit, not non-profit. It's OK to get a small reward for your efforts. State a last date for the payment.
8 Order the pcb's, parts etc.
9 Deliver all by yourself or with help from a couple of people.
10 Make a clear table (like I did) over payments, dates, amounts, delivery times and maybe also aknowledgements from the "customers". We have seen here that status of payment and delivery is very important.
If this "openness" of some reason not is wanted by the organizers, and want to keep it more hidden, make sure that the customers get inforrmed and also which person the shall get in contact with if they ahve questions about payment and delivery.
11 Start a homepage.
12 Create your own support forum like I have done (costs nothing!) or start a thread here. You also may use my forum for a closed group so the beta builder can exchange info in peace and quiet. It can be more peaceful if the development is a bit protected.
*) If you aren't sure if you dare to risk a prototype series, collect a gang of beta builders like I did. 3-10 persons is enough. Ask them to put up some money and return some or all of it AFTER completed task. If you know the builders, trust them and know their building speed it's not necessary with this deposition of money but if you don't know them too well I'll recommend this type of "blackmail" (money talks!).
1 Gather all wishes and design the pcb. *) One man is in charge, YOU or someone is in charge of the business and one another is in charge of the design. Make it clear from the beginning who runs the show.
2 Build one or more prototypes. Bug hunt, add features maybe. It's very important to have a ready and functional product to offer. DON'T OFFER NON-EXISTANT PRODUCTS. Compare this thread starter and also the Jung Super Regulator deal and how it started. Even if you are a pro and really skilled things can turn up and make the design not so good. Prototype first!
3 Start a wiki page and write down your offer which of course must be attractive. Be clear with what you really are offering.
4 Make people to sign up. State a last date for this.
5 Get an offer from a pcb maker.
6 Create a Paypal account so the money collecting will go easier.
7 Collect the money in advance, my recommendation. Don't risk anything if it is a low profit deal. Note low profit, not non-profit. It's OK to get a small reward for your efforts. State a last date for the payment.
8 Order the pcb's, parts etc.
9 Deliver all by yourself or with help from a couple of people.
10 Make a clear table (like I did) over payments, dates, amounts, delivery times and maybe also aknowledgements from the "customers". We have seen here that status of payment and delivery is very important.
If this "openness" of some reason not is wanted by the organizers, and want to keep it more hidden, make sure that the customers get inforrmed and also which person the shall get in contact with if they ahve questions about payment and delivery.
11 Start a homepage.
12 Create your own support forum like I have done (costs nothing!) or start a thread here. You also may use my forum for a closed group so the beta builder can exchange info in peace and quiet. It can be more peaceful if the development is a bit protected.
*) If you aren't sure if you dare to risk a prototype series, collect a gang of beta builders like I did. 3-10 persons is enough. Ask them to put up some money and return some or all of it AFTER completed task. If you know the builders, trust them and know their building speed it's not necessary with this deposition of money but if you don't know them too well I'll recommend this type of "blackmail" (money talks!).
Re: I would be interestred in BPA-200
Thomas Madsen will happily sell you a pcb, I'm sure.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19157&highlight=
Stop crying!Tsanford said:I have been searching for hours for a design for a BPA-200 board with no luck.
Thomas Madsen will happily sell you a pcb, I'm sure.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19157&highlight=
Good info. I just had an email saying there was a new message, so I decided to check in.
I guess my intent in asking was to see if there was a market for this. I have no doubt I could lay out a pc board for it, and it would be tested and prototyped with good documentation so that anyone can build it.
Things in life change, and I found out I have a son on the way.
This means that I won't have nearly the free cash I thought I would. Making an investment in a product that no one wants would not be a good thing for me at this point. I was testing the waters, and it was fairly obvious that this has been covered by others, even if outside the US.
This isn't to say that I won't go ahead and do it, just that it's not likely. Thanks for the perspective in your post... obviously you have done this before.
Steve
Congratulations to your coming son (do you know this already?)nobody special said:
If you read through my instructions once more you have an item which is about investment. The thing was _not_ to risk money. If you can't create any interest the project is dead if you won't risk anything.
If you can't come up with something really different compared to the Das Modul, you only have the price left. Don't underestimate the work you have to put into the project.
Thank you!
Yes, we had the first ultrasound last week and we found out he is a boy! He's our first- due Christmas day.
I think it would be difficult to improve on "Dad Modul" or the BPA application note. I'm not so sure that a non-buffered version is the right thing to do. Maybe sonically it would be superior, but I think it would be risky putting together a kit around such a design. There is the problem with offset and instability that would not be as fool-proof, in my opinion.
Yes, we had the first ultrasound last week and we found out he is a boy! He's our first- due Christmas day.
I think it would be difficult to improve on "Dad Modul" or the BPA application note. I'm not so sure that a non-buffered version is the right thing to do. Maybe sonically it would be superior, but I think it would be risky putting together a kit around such a design. There is the problem with offset and instability that would not be as fool-proof, in my opinion.
I decided this week now that everything has settled down with the baby I will go ahead with the PC board layout. A prototype will then be built, and if it's successful I will be offering the boards for sale, and probably a component kit as well in the future. At that time, I will let you know how much.
Even if there are other designs out there, I want to do this for myself anyway, so I might as well just do it!
Some ideas for the PC board are:
Up to 8 3886's per board (per channel). I will use the servos, because I think it's the best solution. For those that don't want them, I don't think it will be an issue not to populate that part of the board. I will make the board with provisions for using them or not.
The plan is to create a left and a right handed version to optimize layout for stereo amps. Those that only need one can specify either right or left mount at that time. I will provide a drilled and tapped heat sink adapter that will mount the devices and mount to the pc board. It will be up to you to mount the adapter to your heat sink (will not be included).
I plan to put the power supply recitifiers and filter capacitors on the PCB. For maximum versatility, there will be provisions for an off-board supply as well. My thoughts at this point are to include a place for using individual TO-220 type soft/fast recovery rectifiers with stand-up board mounted heatsinks, and radial snap-in filter caps.
There will be balanced or unbalanced inputs.
Boards will be HEAVY, excellent quality.
As I progress with this, I will offer more specifics. These are only my preliminary ideas.
I will begin work on the layout this weekend, with a completion date in the next month planned for the prototype.
Even if there are other designs out there, I want to do this for myself anyway, so I might as well just do it!
Some ideas for the PC board are:
Up to 8 3886's per board (per channel). I will use the servos, because I think it's the best solution. For those that don't want them, I don't think it will be an issue not to populate that part of the board. I will make the board with provisions for using them or not.
The plan is to create a left and a right handed version to optimize layout for stereo amps. Those that only need one can specify either right or left mount at that time. I will provide a drilled and tapped heat sink adapter that will mount the devices and mount to the pc board. It will be up to you to mount the adapter to your heat sink (will not be included).
I plan to put the power supply recitifiers and filter capacitors on the PCB. For maximum versatility, there will be provisions for an off-board supply as well. My thoughts at this point are to include a place for using individual TO-220 type soft/fast recovery rectifiers with stand-up board mounted heatsinks, and radial snap-in filter caps.
There will be balanced or unbalanced inputs.
Boards will be HEAVY, excellent quality.
As I progress with this, I will offer more specifics. These are only my preliminary ideas.
I will begin work on the layout this weekend, with a completion date in the next month planned for the prototype.
i built a BPA-200, sorta. its based on the BPA-200 design, the PCB is a single LM4780 bridged, with a LF411 buffer, part values based on the national schematic. i took two of these bridged PCBs and paralleled them at the outputs. basically its a BPA-200 with two buffers, one for each bridged set.
anyway, its layout is similar to the BrainGT LM3875 amps i built, adding an input buffer and output resistors. it was tested in a 4x7 bass amp cabinet of questionable sanity i built, sounded fine, no hum. if youre interested i could post pics of the boards, bare and populated.
configured this way, theoretically you could parallel additional bridged pairs forever, and run the power into lower and lower impedances.
ill go back and read the rest of the thread now, i only caught the last few posts.
=]
anyway, its layout is similar to the BrainGT LM3875 amps i built, adding an input buffer and output resistors. it was tested in a 4x7 bass amp cabinet of questionable sanity i built, sounded fine, no hum. if youre interested i could post pics of the boards, bare and populated.
configured this way, theoretically you could parallel additional bridged pairs forever, and run the power into lower and lower impedances.
ill go back and read the rest of the thread now, i only caught the last few posts.
=]
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