Cat5
I agree that using CAT5 for power cord is a bad idea. Its great wire but it can be brittle and breaks easily. Mains amperage would not like to see shorts.
For power cables I like using computer power cord. It is very high quality wire. And everyone has an old computer lying around don't they? Remove the male AC plug from the computer power supply on the back of the computer and install it in the chassis. That rhombus like shape is a bitch to make a hole for but if you do the jack screws into the chassis instead of the prerssure fit plastic fittings commonly used. And if the cord gets damaged You don't have to take the piece apart to change the cord.
I agree that using CAT5 for power cord is a bad idea. Its great wire but it can be brittle and breaks easily. Mains amperage would not like to see shorts.
For power cables I like using computer power cord. It is very high quality wire. And everyone has an old computer lying around don't they? Remove the male AC plug from the computer power supply on the back of the computer and install it in the chassis. That rhombus like shape is a bitch to make a hole for but if you do the jack screws into the chassis instead of the prerssure fit plastic fittings commonly used. And if the cord gets damaged You don't have to take the piece apart to change the cord.
Quite possibly. But it's still a wire designed for low voltage applications & I really wouldn't fancy passing 230v, 13amp AC through it. No way. That's asking for it in a big way.
Check your facts, before you bash something. As Dave stated, some Cat5 is rated to 300v. Plenum/Teflon can be over 400v. I would not recommend it, if it didn’t. With the mains in the US at 120v, it works fine for lower current use (preamp, cd, etc.). Any yes I would leave the outer jacket on for such use. Anyone attempting to build electronics, had best understand voltage and current basics and the danger that goes along with it, and know what they are using, or they are in for a world of hurt, or worse.
I have to say 90% of audio is "belief engine", or why is there ribbon, esl, single driver full range, tubes, transistors, various wire, digital, analog, turntables, cd players, copper, silver, gold, paper, rice paper, banana fiber, hemp fiber, carbon fiber, aluminum, paper-in-oil, copper foil, silver foil, on and on and on. Pick any one aspect of audio reproduction and you’ll get 50 different answers. Actually if there were only one best technology, this would be a very boring hobby. Any we would not enjoy this site, as much as we do.
The fact that something measures well, or has better numbers, does not automatically mean better sound quality (or else I’d still be using the Crown DC 300 I had in college- measured way better than my SET300b). Being an EE (I am) does not give one “golden ears”. Most EE I know would be happy with a Bose table top radio. As a classically trained musician, I hope I have learned to listen better, but does not mean I hear or perceive sound quality any better than anyone else.
Everything has a price point and what you are willing to pay for. I won't sell my Cardas Golden Ratio, or MIT reference speaker cables for $10.00, to run out and buy Cat5 cable. Or stop listening to my original Quads, just because I have Fostex FE167e. While I love the sound of real Western Electric 300b's, I don't use them for every day casual listening. And most DIY folks are not going to shell out $$$$ for a pair. So, what you like, and what you are willing to pay for is all "belief engine". Let’s keep an open mind, and enjoy this site. Help anyone who asks for help, and give them the best advice we can offer.
I have to say 90% of audio is "belief engine", or why is there ribbon, esl, single driver full range, tubes, transistors, various wire, digital, analog, turntables, cd players, copper, silver, gold, paper, rice paper, banana fiber, hemp fiber, carbon fiber, aluminum, paper-in-oil, copper foil, silver foil, on and on and on. Pick any one aspect of audio reproduction and you’ll get 50 different answers. Actually if there were only one best technology, this would be a very boring hobby. Any we would not enjoy this site, as much as we do.
The fact that something measures well, or has better numbers, does not automatically mean better sound quality (or else I’d still be using the Crown DC 300 I had in college- measured way better than my SET300b). Being an EE (I am) does not give one “golden ears”. Most EE I know would be happy with a Bose table top radio. As a classically trained musician, I hope I have learned to listen better, but does not mean I hear or perceive sound quality any better than anyone else.
Everything has a price point and what you are willing to pay for. I won't sell my Cardas Golden Ratio, or MIT reference speaker cables for $10.00, to run out and buy Cat5 cable. Or stop listening to my original Quads, just because I have Fostex FE167e. While I love the sound of real Western Electric 300b's, I don't use them for every day casual listening. And most DIY folks are not going to shell out $$$$ for a pair. So, what you like, and what you are willing to pay for is all "belief engine". Let’s keep an open mind, and enjoy this site. Help anyone who asks for help, and give them the best advice we can offer.
Oh, I'll 'bash' it, and keep on doing so where appropriate, as frankly, I regard your original statement as potentially highly dangerous. You made none of the caveats you have suddenly introduced above. The fact is, Cat5 is in many cases is completely unsuited to such roles. Call me Mr Picky if you like, but I'll stick with wire that's actually intended for the task.
Last edited:
lol rated for 400V it may be, however it is not designed for regular movement, as no solid core wire is. i wouldnt like to witness a short wirth mains voltage across a break in cat5 cores
Your right, it would not pass UL, CSA or any other safety rating system for mains use. As far as UL goes, a lot of items I’ve seen posted, does not pass. How about exposed terminals on amplifiers and speakers, they don’t pass either. Say nothing of those nasty vacuum tubes sticking out on top of the chassis without a cover over them. UL requires anything over 50V to have a caution label attached to it. So that means anything with an AC cord going to it. I have yet to see any on the pictures of equipment posted. And for any lawyers reading this post, all electronic equipment, whether purchased or home built, should meet all UL regulations.
So maybe the politically correct answer to “why use Cat5” should be “don’t”. So let’s get back on subject, what good quality, inexpensive wire, that sounds good, are you using for speaker cable?
So maybe the politically correct answer to “why use Cat5” should be “don’t”. So let’s get back on subject, what good quality, inexpensive wire, that sounds good, are you using for speaker cable?
It's certainly a good point (& no offense meant above BTW). There are a lot of cottage-industry hi-fi wire companies around selling extremely expensive / fancy looking products. I've no problem with that per se (other than with a lot of the waffle they come out with to flog the things), but I'd love to know how many of their mains wires actually would pass a standard safety rating / test. Not all of them I fear. 
Doesn't necessarily mean they are unsafe, but it's something to think about.
Doesn't necessarily mean they are unsafe, but it's something to think about.
maybe this stuff for a thin wire app:
Browse for Products | CPC
or this if you fancy pushing the boat out a little more, and like the fancy stuff:
Browse for Products | CPC
or this if you like the simple, cheap approach, like me:
Browse for Products | CPC
BTW the £0.19/m stuff is tiny diameter...lol my mistake. my personal fave is the stuff i got free from work. mains 2 core flex, silicone insulation with braided outer. like heat resistant iron cabling only with a purple sheath, and no earth wire. Either that or 'Megger' wire....HT silicone insulation, and a huge amount of very fine strands for a 1mm², ultra flexible so wont rattle inside the box OR against it. Only trouble is i have to cut twice as much wire lol
Last edited:
Just a few data points:
- Cat 5 is rated to 30 volts between conductors. The higher voltage ratings you see are for the outer sheathing, where the cable may come into contact with mains wiring in trunks, plenums or outlet boxes
- Cat 5 comes in solid core and stranded. Solid core is used for fixed wiring (in walls and plenums). Stranded is used for patch cords. Use the right variant for the right job.
- For audio use, consider Type 1 instead of Cat 5, especially for in-wall distribution. Two twisted pairs, each pair shielded, then both enclosed in an outer shield. (Type 1 for fixed wiring, Type 2 includes 4 unshielded pairs for phone etc, Type 6 for flexible use, Type 9 for plenums.) For Ethernet use, Cat 5 is usually rated to lengths of 100 meters. Type 1 is rated to 300 meters.
- Cat 5 is rated to 30 volts between conductors. The higher voltage ratings you see are for the outer sheathing, where the cable may come into contact with mains wiring in trunks, plenums or outlet boxes
- Cat 5 comes in solid core and stranded. Solid core is used for fixed wiring (in walls and plenums). Stranded is used for patch cords. Use the right variant for the right job.
- For audio use, consider Type 1 instead of Cat 5, especially for in-wall distribution. Two twisted pairs, each pair shielded, then both enclosed in an outer shield. (Type 1 for fixed wiring, Type 2 includes 4 unshielded pairs for phone etc, Type 6 for flexible use, Type 9 for plenums.) For Ethernet use, Cat 5 is usually rated to lengths of 100 meters. Type 1 is rated to 300 meters.
One of the tests done on mains rated cables is what fumes come off them when they get very hot under fault conditions, while the general fire risk of all cables controlled and regulated it is usually done under the conditions they are normaly subjected to plus the expected extremes, low voltage/sognal cable in a fire is only carrying signals. Some cables suitable for underground are only allowed 1m in a dwelling, due to fumes in a fire.
Cat5 and Cat6 also have a "Shielded" variant. Called STP (shielded twisted pair). Whereas most are UTP (unshielded).
This extra shield is usually a foil wrap around the twisted pairs, and would be excellent for protecting your cable from acting as an antenna for all that 60Hz hum, and other nasty noise.
Hard to find STP sold though, prolly have to order it online.
I use Cat5 UTP solid core, just because I had a bunch lying around the house. I'm thinking of going to STP when I run out.
This extra shield is usually a foil wrap around the twisted pairs, and would be excellent for protecting your cable from acting as an antenna for all that 60Hz hum, and other nasty noise.
Hard to find STP sold though, prolly have to order it online.
I use Cat5 UTP solid core, just because I had a bunch lying around the house. I'm thinking of going to STP when I run out.
For what it's worth, I just built a pair of speaker cables out of CAT5 to see (hear) for myself whether they are a good match to my system.
I used 2 conductors for + and 4 conductors for - terminated with gold-plated banana plugs.
The cables I was running up till now were Energy branded, 12 gauge, "high performance". I spent more money on them than I'd care to admit.
The CAT5 cables, compared to the old ones, are like a veil has been lifted from in front of the speakers. All the difference is in the upper mids and highs. I literally had to adjust EQ after the cable swap. The thought of adding a tweeter to the EL70s is now sort of funny to me. Also, bass has not been affected, as far as I can tell.
I suspect that my new tube amp (on the way) will like these cables, too.
I used 2 conductors for + and 4 conductors for - terminated with gold-plated banana plugs.
The cables I was running up till now were Energy branded, 12 gauge, "high performance". I spent more money on them than I'd care to admit.
The CAT5 cables, compared to the old ones, are like a veil has been lifted from in front of the speakers. All the difference is in the upper mids and highs. I literally had to adjust EQ after the cable swap. The thought of adding a tweeter to the EL70s is now sort of funny to me. Also, bass has not been affected, as far as I can tell.
I suspect that my new tube amp (on the way) will like these cables, too.
Last edited:
Logically, I don't know why I ever thought 12 gauge wire was a good idea. The interconnect wire from the binding posts to the drivers is maybe 18 gauge (at most), and I doubt the wire from the OPT to the terminals in my amp is much bigger, so the advantage of a 12 gauge speaker wire is beyond questionable, really. Silly of me to have spent the money.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.