Saturnus said:
Eliminate confusion. Taken from Wikipedia:
"Wood glue
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Wood glues are adhesives used to tightly bond pieces of wood together. Many substances have been used as glues.
The most common wood glue is polyvinyl acetate (PVA), also known as "carpenter's glue" or "Yellow glue". The white version of polyvinyl acetate is also used on wood"
Clear enough?
I use urethane glue also, but not when it's a nice tight joint and the item is to be kept inside. Urethane glue is great for outdoors or damp locations. It also has good gap filling qualities (for the not-so-straight cut).
LilMik said:
Fast1one said:
I'll post this link again:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98834&perpage=25&highlight=&pagenumber=1
Take the time to do some reading in the above thread before trying "Real Wood"
MJL21193 said:
Yeah. Wikipedia is wrong again.
Anyways back to the original question of what to use to bond OSB. You should use what is called yellow carpenters glue in Europe, or in other words, PU based glue. Don't use PVA based glue, it won't bond correctly to the surfaces of the OSB that are lacquer treated.
Terry Cain was a big fan of pine & spruce for horns -2nd only to alder & maple IIRC. But you have to get properly seasoned wood, and know exactly how to work with it, so for most people who aren't cabinet makers I suspect sheet material will give more consistant results. I did build a pair of small horns a while back with pine laminayed furniture board (pretty stable stuff) and they had a rather nice sound to them.
When I find a driver enclosure combo that is "it" for me, I plan on making a final version out of real wood. I visited Terry at his shop in Walla Walla a few years ago before he passed away and was inspired, so that is my ultimate goal. Right now I am collecting tools and experience and it may be a few years away but I am patient.
Ed Robinson
Ed Robinson
Ah, the mother of tone site is interesting. Someone else telling us what to think based on his personal preferences. "It is nothing short of ridiculous to make a speaker with an aluminium or titanium, polypropylene or ceramic cone. It doesn't work." Must be great not having to deal with all those greys and graduations of black and white.
Wonder if sand filled plywood sounds any different than sand filled MDF? I've always wanted to build sand filled enclosures like the old Wharfdales (sp?), but the weight and construction pita put me off the idea. I've always used MDF, and for larger boxes it's not the best choice. Weighs a ton. Can boom. For small well braced enclosures, it doesn't seem that bad.
Can anyone comment on the North Creek Music philosophy?
North Creek recommends using MDF and Plywood laminated together for the front baffle and rear panel of an enclosure. MDF for the sides and top of the enclosure and Plywood for braces.
I'm considering following this method when I build a set of Jim Griffin designed Jordan JX92s/Aurum Cantus G2si monitors.
North Creek recommends using MDF and Plywood laminated together for the front baffle and rear panel of an enclosure. MDF for the sides and top of the enclosure and Plywood for braces.
I'm considering following this method when I build a set of Jim Griffin designed Jordan JX92s/Aurum Cantus G2si monitors.
Saturnus said:
Hi,
I don't know how much experience you have with woodworking but I have 25 years. In that 25 years (as a trained professional carpenter), I have used a lot of glue and a lot of different types of glue. When I say yellow carpenter's glue, there is only one type of glue that I could mean.
Wikipedia is not wrong, you are.
Axminster do Titebond yellow carpenters glue, and Titebond polyeurethene.
I us PU glue a lot and it sias brown on the bottle
Norm Abrahms uses both yellow carpenters glue that he wipes off with a damp cloth and he is a Woodworking diety, try wiping PU of with a damp cloth.
I prefer to use PU glue cos when I get it all over me its great at depilation and saves me loads on razors and it foams at the mouth (a trait we both have).
Seriously I think the difference between white and yellow is setting time, yelklow is quicker I believe.
On a more serious note I though MDF was harder to control the dust cos you need stage 5 filtration.
The one the beauties of MDF (sorry to tease the ply guys with such a noun in the same sentance as MDF) is the ability to easily create exotic shapes, due to the lack of grain etc, saying that I will only ever machine it outside with a darth vader breathing mask (proper face mask) and dust extraction.
I us PU glue a lot and it sias brown on the bottle
Norm Abrahms uses both yellow carpenters glue that he wipes off with a damp cloth and he is a Woodworking diety, try wiping PU of with a damp cloth.
I prefer to use PU glue cos when I get it all over me its great at depilation and saves me loads on razors and it foams at the mouth (a trait we both have).
Seriously I think the difference between white and yellow is setting time, yelklow is quicker I believe.
On a more serious note I though MDF was harder to control the dust cos you need stage 5 filtration.
The one the beauties of MDF (sorry to tease the ply guys with such a noun in the same sentance as MDF) is the ability to easily create exotic shapes, due to the lack of grain etc, saying that I will only ever machine it outside with a darth vader breathing mask (proper face mask) and dust extraction.
germpod said:
Hi Ed,
As you collect experience, you will come to understand the non-feasibility of solid wood as a speaker building material.
I do not understand this infatuation with solid wood for speakers, when engineered sheet stock such as plywood and particle board and yes, even MDF, wil give superior results.
I was inspired by Terry who made exellent speakers out of wood, there was passion there. He believed he was making a musical instrument, and you do not make instruments out of plywood. A friend of mine has a pair of Abbeys and they sound awsome.
Terry made his products out of 3" strips of wood glued together and that likely has a lot to do with why his worked so well when so many have such a hard time making solid wood work right for them.
The facination with wood is more of a "soul" thing in a way, plywood and MDF do not have the same "feel" to me as wood does. If you have a 100 year old coffee table made out of real wood it would have a different "feel" than one made out of plywood.
You may be totally correct also. I may build my pair of speakers out of maple or alder and then think they sound way worse then my plywood pair, and then they will be given to a friend for Christmas
Terry made his products out of 3" strips of wood glued together and that likely has a lot to do with why his worked so well when so many have such a hard time making solid wood work right for them.
The facination with wood is more of a "soul" thing in a way, plywood and MDF do not have the same "feel" to me as wood does. If you have a 100 year old coffee table made out of real wood it would have a different "feel" than one made out of plywood.
You may be totally correct also. I may build my pair of speakers out of maple or alder and then think they sound way worse then my plywood pair, and then they will be given to a friend for Christmas
MJL21193 said:
I've been a woodworker for 15 years proffesionally, so you can't teach me anything. Yellow carpenter's glue in Europe is PU based. Period. End of story. Sometimes it's called brown carpenter's glue but that slightly different, as it's PVA glue with a PU hardener.
The PVA based glue you call yellow carpenter's glue is called white wood glue in Europe. I'm sorry but that's just the way it is.
In case you haven't heard, we also use something called the metric system, that doesn't mean you can't still use inches but if you don't specify the type of measurement you could get in real trouble when comparing structures with someone with a different naming or measurement system.
marce said:
Precisely.
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