I'm a big sucker for MDF since it is more stable and a lot easier to prep and paint. Does plywood sound significantly better? I'd need to look up on yellow pages to find out who carries quality plywood. Those in HD/Rona don't cut it.
I've decided to go with a Fonken floorstander + stock 127e as appetizer
Maybe something else when I get my tax return.
Also, who in Canada carries Fostex driver at comparable price to Madison?
I've decided to go with a Fonken floorstander + stock 127e as appetizer
Maybe something else when I get my tax return. Also, who in Canada carries Fostex driver at comparable price to Madison?
kin0kin said:
here we go again - I guess you're new to this forum?
Particle board (i.e. K-3 / chip board, etc) probably sounds better than MDF
Personally, I always veneer & lacquer my speaker enclosures, so the putative ease of prep and painting MDF (i.e. depending on the desired finish) is not a factor.
Is there a Windsor Plywood in your 'hood? IIRC , a single 5x5ft sheet of 15mm will be plenty. Sand or kitty litter fill the lower void, and consider a larger footprint plinth /slab base - this design can get tippy, particularly on carpet.
I've decided to go with a Fonken floorstander + stock 127e as appetizer
Also, who in Canada carries Fostex driver at comparable price to Madison?
For bone stock drivers in Canada, try Solen - considering prevailing exchange rates and international shipping cost, they're probably less. If Madisound ships via UPS in error, you could see shipping charge/ brokerage fee equal to the cost of one driver.
Well yeah, if they ship via UPS Stadard, I'd be SOL. I've never compared Ply to MDF so I really have no idea if they indeed sound better.
Commonwealth sells Eastern Birch @ 4' x 8', 12mm/1/2" @ $37.44. 5' x 5' BB, 15mm/5/8" @ $38. Home Hardware carries 5' x 5' 1/2" BB @ $40+.
There's one Windsor Ply @ Thunder Bay. That's very far from where I am.
Commonwealth sells Eastern Birch @ 4' x 8', 12mm/1/2" @ $37.44. 5' x 5' BB, 15mm/5/8" @ $38. Home Hardware carries 5' x 5' 1/2" BB @ $40+.
There's one Windsor Ply @ Thunder Bay. That's very far from where I am.
I've just rec'd my "full-monty" 126's from (thanks!) Dave.
Much more to come later, BUT, these eN treated drivers are simply gob-smacking!!
I guess I was just hoping my 60 something ears would be able to hear a difference, but they are wildly better in every dept, not just different, but better. If anyone's planning on Fostex drivers,, the value of this treatment can't be overstated.
Much more later.
Don
Much more to come later, BUT, these eN treated drivers are simply gob-smacking!!
I guess I was just hoping my 60 something ears would be able to hear a difference, but they are wildly better in every dept, not just different, but better. If anyone's planning on Fostex drivers,, the value of this treatment can't be overstated.
Much more later.
Don
kin0kin said:
There are various brand names of panel goods that are not necessarily distributed nationally, so you may very well be able to find what looks like a suitable substitute plywood, but be aware that it's the high ply count that contributes to BB's sonic properties (i.e. 15mm is 11 plies) .
At the very reasonable prices you've quoted, the face veneers won't be guaranteed patch or pin-hole free. Again, this is no big deal if you're planning on veneering them - and at the end of the day, a sheet of paper back non-exotic veneer and couple of hours with a clothes iron can cost far less in time and materials than a high quality paint job on MDF.
I'd need to double check with them on how many plys are on those boards.
I have access to HVLP for paint job and I've done quite a bit of painting which is why I'm so keen on painting the box. It'd cost about $30 on the paint + primer (water based only, can't paint oil based in basement). It all comes down to labor and time.
What'd be a good source for veneer? I have zero..nada...experience in veneer.
I have access to HVLP for paint job and I've done quite a bit of painting which is why I'm so keen on painting the box. It'd cost about $30 on the paint + primer (water based only, can't paint oil based in basement). It all comes down to labor and time.
What'd be a good source for veneer? I have zero..nada...experience in veneer.
kin0kin said:
The product that I normally use would be classified as 10mil paper backed flexible wood veneer, obtained from local industrial distributors. A distributor close to you that does national shipping would be:
http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/canada-wood-veneer-supplier.html
I have no experience or affiliation, this is just the first name that popped on on my googling.
As for the procedure, I've been using a technique similar to what Bob describes below for years. You can certainly use spray or roll-on contact cement, but it's not very forgiving, and does not allow fine adjustment for grain pattern matching. Using the wood glue / iron method pretty much assures that no solvent or oil based finishing product will affect the adhesive.
http://www.geocities.com/rbrines1/Pages/Veneering.html
If you have lots of success painting MDF with water based products, congratulations. It certainly is possible to paint plywood, but if you're looking for a quality finish, the filling of exposed edges of cross plies and smoothing of other surface imperfections will certainly take longer than MDF.
but if it's about the sound .........
doorman said:
Seems to be a general consensus. I know my pre-EnABL 126s (basically everything but EnABL) flattened the stock units. Cleaner, flatter, far better tonal colour. Wish I hadn't passed them on now.
Dave knows what he's doing with these mods. They really don't sound like the stock units at all.
kin0kin said:
Thanx for the opening Scott.
I don't sell stock drivers, but pretreated & matched pairs are available (this was primarily intended for the UK market where a set of pre-treated drivers can be landed (with surface post) for about the same cost as a stock set FOB the local distibutor). They aren't a whole lot more than Solen sells a stock pair for.
dave
kin0kin said:Does the floorstander (fonken167 look-alike) have more bass or are there virtually no difference from a stand mount build? It'd be greatly appreciated if you could somehow send me the broken down parts. I'm a metric guy myself.
The FE127E floorstander does have a bit more weight in the bottom than the stand mounted "prime", but at the expense of articulation ( or "pace", if you will).
If you like, shoot me a PM, I'll double check my CAD drawings and send them by PDF. IIRC, Dave's drawings for the "Prime" are based on 12mm materials - we have since converted to 15mm for most designs, as you'll note on the Floorstanders.
Hi, anyone can advice on the enclosure for fostex126
Hi there, have read some of the written comment on Full range speaker. I am seek any guy out there might give their advice or experience on BLH design for fostex126. I just want to explore more helpful advice before embark/commit to building a floorstand . There is recommended dimension found fostex website which is a middle height of 600mm and may consider to add a extension of 300mm without changes in the original layout of the back load horn. Is there anyone would share their dimension of other tested enclosure on fostex 126. A big thank to you
Hi there, have read some of the written comment on Full range speaker. I am seek any guy out there might give their advice or experience on BLH design for fostex126. I just want to explore more helpful advice before embark/commit to building a floorstand . There is recommended dimension found fostex website which is a middle height of 600mm and may consider to add a extension of 300mm without changes in the original layout of the back load horn. Is there anyone would share their dimension of other tested enclosure on fostex 126. A big thank to you
Re: Hi, anyone can advice on the enclosure for fostex126
The Fostex recommended Horn/TL (TL/BR) hybrid is not all that great. In terms of performance (and size) Saburo, Austin A126, Frugel-Horn. Harvey 1v0 (you'll have to ask for those) also works. Frugel-Horn 2v0 is under work by a design group here.
dave
Pohyen said:
The Fostex recommended Horn/TL (TL/BR) hybrid is not all that great. In terms of performance (and size) Saburo, Austin A126, Frugel-Horn. Harvey 1v0 (you'll have to ask for those) also works. Frugel-Horn 2v0 is under work by a design group here.
dave
Re: Hi, anyone can advice on the enclosure for fostex126
FWIW, my own order of preference for DIY designs for the FE126E are
- Ron Clark A126 - IMHO, the "supra-baffle" and rear deflector should be considered mandatory
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/RonHorn-A126-plans260207.pdf
- Frugelhorn
http://www.frugel-horn.com/plans.html
- Buschhorn Mk I not MKII - the MKI was orginally drawn for 3" driver - for modifications to fit FE126E see final page on the PDF plans for the Frugelhorn above.
I have yet to hear/build either of Scott Lindgren's Mikasa or Saburo
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/Mikasa-1v01-map-070707.pdf
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/Saburo-1v0-map-0102008.pdf
Dave mentioned the Harvey BVR design above - I've only briefly heard it with the FE126E, and more so with the FE127E - it's much more suited to the latter of these two drivers.
Pohyen said:
FWIW, my own order of preference for DIY designs for the FE126E are
- Ron Clark A126 - IMHO, the "supra-baffle" and rear deflector should be considered mandatory
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/RonHorn-A126-plans260207.pdf
- Frugelhorn
http://www.frugel-horn.com/plans.html
- Buschhorn Mk I not MKII - the MKI was orginally drawn for 3" driver - for modifications to fit FE126E see final page on the PDF plans for the Frugelhorn above.
I have yet to hear/build either of Scott Lindgren's Mikasa or Saburo
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/Mikasa-1v01-map-070707.pdf
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/Saburo-1v0-map-0102008.pdf
Dave mentioned the Harvey BVR design above - I've only briefly heard it with the FE126E, and more so with the FE127E - it's much more suited to the latter of these two drivers.
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