The 5Z4P is an Indirect Heated Rectifier. It has Cathode(s), and it warms up Slowly, so the other tubes do not get B+ until they are also fairly warm. (A good thing). 5Z4P has a 2 Amp filament.
The 5U4G is a Direct Heated Rectifier. It does Not have Cathode(s), and it warms up Quickly, so the other tubes get B+ before they have warmed up. (not as good) 5U4G has a 3 Amp filament.
Who told you the 5U4G is compatible with the 5Z4 / 5Z4P?
The 5U4G is a Direct Heated Rectifier. It does Not have Cathode(s), and it warms up Quickly, so the other tubes get B+ before they have warmed up. (not as good) 5U4G has a 3 Amp filament.
Who told you the 5U4G is compatible with the 5Z4 / 5Z4P?
Scroll down on this page to the guy who posts with big characters and a bunch of tubes.
5Z4P Rectifier tube advice needed! - 2 Channel Debate - HiFi WigWam
5Z4P Rectifier tube advice needed! - 2 Channel Debate - HiFi WigWam
I believe everything I read on the web:
1. Especially if I wrote it (No, I make mistakes; No, I have opinions)
2. Especially if it is a site that will sell you something; tubes, transformers, amps, etc.
I did not see anything at the link above that said "the 5U4 is compatible with the 5Z4"
It merely 'mentioned' the 5U4 at the page that discussed 5Z4 tubes.
From there it linked to the Watford Valves site that sells 5U4 tubes.
Watford valves did Not say the 5U4 and 5Z4 are compatible.
Now I know there is a debate about whether or not you should delay B+ until the other tubes warm up.
The 2 common methods are a B+ Delay Relay, and Indirect Heated Rectifiers (i.e. 5Z4).
I will not argue whether delayed B+ is needed or not.
I use solid state rectifiers; They cause fairly immediate B+ (and are delayed slightly by the high count multi-element B+ filter parts).
But I design the rest of the amplifier circuitry so that the tubes are not stressed during warm up, and so the tubes are not stretched to their maximum spec limits during the warmed up, and the listening operation of the amp.
1. Especially if I wrote it (No, I make mistakes; No, I have opinions)
2. Especially if it is a site that will sell you something; tubes, transformers, amps, etc.
I did not see anything at the link above that said "the 5U4 is compatible with the 5Z4"
It merely 'mentioned' the 5U4 at the page that discussed 5Z4 tubes.
From there it linked to the Watford Valves site that sells 5U4 tubes.
Watford valves did Not say the 5U4 and 5Z4 are compatible.
Now I know there is a debate about whether or not you should delay B+ until the other tubes warm up.
The 2 common methods are a B+ Delay Relay, and Indirect Heated Rectifiers (i.e. 5Z4).
I will not argue whether delayed B+ is needed or not.
I use solid state rectifiers; They cause fairly immediate B+ (and are delayed slightly by the high count multi-element B+ filter parts).
But I design the rest of the amplifier circuitry so that the tubes are not stressed during warm up, and so the tubes are not stretched to their maximum spec limits during the warmed up, and the listening operation of the amp.
Last edited:
I believe everything I read on the web:
1. Especially if I wrote it (No, I make mistakes; No, I have opinions)
2. Especially if it is a site that will sell you something; tubes, transformers, amps, etc.
I did not see anything at the link above that said "the 5U4 is compatible with the 5Z4"
It merely 'mentioned' the 5U4 at the page that discussed 5Z4 tubes.
From there it linked to the Watford Valves site that sells 5U4 tubes.
Watford valves did Not say the 5U4 and 5Z4 are compatible.
Now I know there is a debate about whether or not you should delay B+ until the other tubes warm up.
The 2 common methods are a B+ Delay Relay, and Indirect Heated Rectifiers (i.e. 5Z4).
I will not argue whether delayed B+ is needed or not.
I use solid state rectifiers; They cause fairly immediate B+ (and are delayed slightly by the high count multi-element B+ filter parts).
But I design the rest of the amplifier circuitry so that the tubes are not stressed during warm up, and so the tubes are not stretched to their maximum spec limits during the warmed up, and the listening operation of the amp.
Is the 6v6/6v6g/6v6gt the same specs for 6p1 compatibility? Also you said 6l6 should be fine too right ?
Is the 6v6/6v6g/6v6gt the same specs for 6p1 compatibility? Also you said 6l6 should be fine too right ?
6V6 is electrically equivalent to 6P1P. 6L6 uses more heater current, but it's Pd is ~20W instead of 14W for 6V6, and 12W for 6P1P, and it's pinout is the same.
6V6 is electrically equivalent to 6P1P. 6L6 uses more heater current, but it's Pd is ~20W instead of 14W for 6V6, and 12W for 6P1P, and it's pinout is the same.
I was Asking because the 6V6G looked like a power tube like a 6ASGTB
6V6 is electrically equivalent to 6P1P. 6L6 uses more heater current, but it's Pd is ~20W instead of 14W for 6V6, and 12W for 6P1P, and it's pinout is the same.
I want to ask. How does a different pd affect the amp/sound ? Does it stress more components ? Does it distort the sound ? Sorry I'm new to these terms.
It means it can dissipate more power which usually translates into higher output power. The lower the power you dissipautethe longer the tube usually lasts. (like running a 20W tube at 10W etc)
Great ! But doesn't that mean the sounds is worsened because the tube is not running at its rated power ?
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Tubes / Valves
- Which chinese amp should I go for ?