Aurum Cantus AC-130MKII
This driver has good low freq. response for a 5 inch at a reasonable price. Particularly a good driver for a quasi T-Line (like the THOR)
1st order electrical at 4kHz driver 1; 1st order electrical at 400 Hz for the second driver (for acoustic baffle step correction).
Suggested Ribbon Neo CD 2.0
This driver will handle lower freq.s better which allows for a fairly high yet "shallow" 1st order electrical crossover (especially in conjunction with a "padded" response). "Padding" (to reduce the eff.) should be acomplished via a transformer volume control (NOT with resistors).
1st order electrical target freq. will be based on the OFF AXIS response of the 5 inch driver to achieve a flat summed response. Guestimate is between 4-5kHz for the 1st order electrical on the tweeter aproximatly 30 degrees off-axis (with the speakers point ing straight ahead, more or less, instead of directly at you).
5inch drivers can be found here (click on midwoofers):
http://www.aurumcantus.com/
Ribbon can be found here:
http://www.fountek.net/neocd2.htm
THOR PDF can be found here:
http://www.madisound.com/audioXpress Thor Review.pdf
Cheap Transformer "padding" attenuators suggested are like those found here:
http://www.lashen.com/vendors/atlas_soundolier/attenuators.asp
(Note that most available are STEREO attenuators, you will simply be using only one "channel" of a stere attenuator (for mono), and would of course need 2 such attenuators.)
You can determine the amount of padding needed and where the crossover will work off-axis via loudspeaker measurment programs OR using an ANALOG Radio Shack spl meter and the CD mentioned below.
Freeware (needs jig and mic):
http://www.speakerworkshop.com/
Shareware (needs mic and I believe a jig):
http://www.audiotester.de/
(Note this has more functions than speakerworkshop, particularly CSD plots)
Mic and jig construction can be found on the speakerworkshop page link.
OR use this CD with the aforementioned spl meter (at 1 meter distance):
http://www.rivesaudio.com/software/TestCD.html
This driver has good low freq. response for a 5 inch at a reasonable price. Particularly a good driver for a quasi T-Line (like the THOR)
1st order electrical at 4kHz driver 1; 1st order electrical at 400 Hz for the second driver (for acoustic baffle step correction).
Suggested Ribbon Neo CD 2.0
This driver will handle lower freq.s better which allows for a fairly high yet "shallow" 1st order electrical crossover (especially in conjunction with a "padded" response). "Padding" (to reduce the eff.) should be acomplished via a transformer volume control (NOT with resistors).
1st order electrical target freq. will be based on the OFF AXIS response of the 5 inch driver to achieve a flat summed response. Guestimate is between 4-5kHz for the 1st order electrical on the tweeter aproximatly 30 degrees off-axis (with the speakers point ing straight ahead, more or less, instead of directly at you).
5inch drivers can be found here (click on midwoofers):
http://www.aurumcantus.com/
Ribbon can be found here:
http://www.fountek.net/neocd2.htm
THOR PDF can be found here:
http://www.madisound.com/audioXpress Thor Review.pdf
Cheap Transformer "padding" attenuators suggested are like those found here:
http://www.lashen.com/vendors/atlas_soundolier/attenuators.asp
(Note that most available are STEREO attenuators, you will simply be using only one "channel" of a stere attenuator (for mono), and would of course need 2 such attenuators.)
You can determine the amount of padding needed and where the crossover will work off-axis via loudspeaker measurment programs OR using an ANALOG Radio Shack spl meter and the CD mentioned below.
Freeware (needs jig and mic):
http://www.speakerworkshop.com/
Shareware (needs mic and I believe a jig):
http://www.audiotester.de/
(Note this has more functions than speakerworkshop, particularly CSD plots)
Mic and jig construction can be found on the speakerworkshop page link.
OR use this CD with the aforementioned spl meter (at 1 meter distance):
http://www.rivesaudio.com/software/TestCD.html
Fountek Ribbons
Can anyone give us a comparison in sound of all/any of the Fountek Ribbons,
That is, smaller JP3 Vs Larger 5" JP2, Aluminium ribbon Vs NeoCD, any
comparisons at all if you've heard any of these.
Secondly, in general how to smaller ribbons (eg JP3) compare to larger ones (eg JP2). From what I know, the larger ones will sound "warmer" due to the lower end responce, but it may not be worth it for the lost vertical axis responce?
I want to mate one of the Founteks with a PHL1120 / PR170M0 in a 4 way, any idea which fountek I should get?
Can anyone give us a comparison in sound of all/any of the Fountek Ribbons,
That is, smaller JP3 Vs Larger 5" JP2, Aluminium ribbon Vs NeoCD, any
comparisons at all if you've heard any of these.
Secondly, in general how to smaller ribbons (eg JP3) compare to larger ones (eg JP2). From what I know, the larger ones will sound "warmer" due to the lower end responce, but it may not be worth it for the lost vertical axis responce?
I want to mate one of the Founteks with a PHL1120 / PR170M0 in a 4 way, any idea which fountek I should get?
Hi there
You can also have a look at the MAX-FIDELITY MF130-75L4. I designed a small bookshelf using this woofer and the Aurum Cantus G2 ribbon tweeter and I was very impressed. The woofer has the speed required to match the sound of the ribbon tweeter.
You can buy it from Solen in Canada. It is similar to the Dynaudio drive units that are no longer available to the DIY community.
Have you considered the Aurum Cantus ribbon tweeters? They are very well made and sound good to.
Dirk
You can also have a look at the MAX-FIDELITY MF130-75L4. I designed a small bookshelf using this woofer and the Aurum Cantus G2 ribbon tweeter and I was very impressed. The woofer has the speed required to match the sound of the ribbon tweeter.
You can buy it from Solen in Canada. It is similar to the Dynaudio drive units that are no longer available to the DIY community.
Have you considered the Aurum Cantus ribbon tweeters? They are very well made and sound good to.
Dirk
Attachments
Funny, but I had the opposite experience. I didn't really like my ACG3 until padding them down a few db resistively to use in a 'normal' efficiency system.
AFA crossovers, I liked them best using a 2nd order series crossover.
I think it's worthwhile to get the bigger one, as these things don't really like to go as low as advertised IMO.
Seas sounds like a good bet on the midbass units.
GB
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