Personally I prefer to put special effects in the amplifier's output stage.
But that's just me.
That makes perfect sense and I had some notes from previous conversations. I am still grasping at thin air re: differential signaling for some small pieces. I love balanced for cancelling all the lovely things my messy area injects through RFI, EMI etc. etc. etc. I learned this when I lived in a place that was horrible for such things and the only thing that could make things usable for me was a balanced chain. There could have been other solutions, but that was my finding. Possibly some filtering or other things would have worked, but I was not (and still am not) knowledgable. As an example, I could hear my neighbor's cable TV audio through my gear.
Back home now in USA with more space and my own dedicated power etc. I have been able to use lots of SE gear and love it. But... I like to play and learn too.
A. there is such thing - Iron Pumpkin; probably not sole or most linear preamp in the world, but certainly example of least harmful one, when speaking both of linearity and signal energy preservation
though - for my liking - that's the approach - least visible (with ears) preamp , then having what you need of sugar in amp and speakers
that's at least how I'm trying to control things with my non-capable hands
I also have some gear that uses the Krell CAST system. I am trying to understand that concept and how it works. I think the goal was signal preservation, but I think with a different technique. The downside is that it must be used with other components that have it to take full advantage (I think).
Well, maybe a dodo can learn.
I thought so. Now, I want to see the pretty graphs with the toys I got. Maybe in two weeks. I am still waiting on scope probes, and I have lots and lots to learn. I am a visual learner, so seeing the peaks and valleys and how they line up on the scope and then seeing the FFT plot is perfect for me to understand. 6L6s video on how to set P3 got me hooked.Also, I rarely ever see any reviewers etc. measuring a full chain before the speakers, but lots of people talk about how gear "works well" with other gear or not. So, I wonder if this type of thing contributes separate from things like output / input impedance mismatching etc. etc. etc.
Fun, fun fun!
With 'KISS' you don't impress and you don't make vendors wealthier. You don't gulp persuations that a 'for audio' component is worthy of its extortional price tag. With 'KISS' you opt to stand on the shoulders of experts instead of sheepishly bleathing claims only worthy the status of myths. With 'KISS' you make a distinction between reproducible evidence and opinion.
Personally I prefer to put special effects in the amplifier's output stage.
But that's just me.
I'm honored.
Part of the prep for all this is to learn to set "P3" in what will soon be my first Burning Amps. Then going back to my F5 and Ishikawa on M2x...
I also had an absolute ball playing with the H2 you graciously provided from BAF. The only measurement devices were a DMM and a set of tapping toes. It inspires learning a bit more about what makes the grin grow.
Thank you for everything you do to support this hobby!
Edited to add - I'm pretty sure P3 controls the input stage in those amps, but I'll certainly try to learn more about how good times can be had in the output. I did notice the "imbalance" of the resistor values in the F6 source resistors a long time ago (I think), but I have no idea if that relates.
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one can use simple plastic bushing for front plate (shaft lagerung) , you can keep your nuts where they belong
Sorry ZM, I feel like I'm burying your thread. My nuts are perfectly happy in their current place, thank you
Russelc - I haven't found one yet to pull the trigger on. My chassis will have the 3mm front plate. I chose that for ease of drilling etc. So, I may have made the right call. I just tried again, and I didn't see one on Parts Connexion. I got some caps there for the BA, and I have my eye on some of their shiny knobs. So, I may place another order. Do you have a description or link?
I found a bunch of couplers and rods etc. on various sites. What I can't believe I'm struggling with is a silly little slotted L-Bracket or something to mount the pot and give it a little leeway up and down / back and forth to get it set properly. There's no way, I'll get the hole in the faceplate perfect. I may just get something from the hardware store and fashion one myself. However, for lazy bones me... if someone has a successful solution they can share??? It's probably dirt simple and readily available. i see them in builds all the time... I just can't find it.
I'm also looking for a PCB for the pinned Alps 4-gang pot I got. RK27114MC036. No way I'm soldering to those pins (although it could be done). It may be my first trial with making a PCB.
I hooked up dual pots for now, but I am not 100% sure I'll stick with it.
The support and ideas are phenomenal!
this isn't my thread, it's (as all are) Greedy Boyz thread
regarding L bracket - just go to nearest hardware store and look for those comfyhandy zinced angles for work with 2x2 and 2x4 wood
shaft sleeve insert for front plate - either plastic bushing or cannibalized front from old surplus pot
edit: with original old pot nut, so nuts again intact
regarding L bracket - just go to nearest hardware store and look for those comfyhandy zinced angles for work with 2x2 and 2x4 wood
shaft sleeve insert for front plate - either plastic bushing or cannibalized front from old surplus pot
edit: with original old pot nut, so nuts again intact
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Here you go:
Extension Kit
Its on sale and everything. Including temporarily out of stock. I think I will call and see if raincheck at this price...
Russellc
Extension Kit
Its on sale and everything. Including temporarily out of stock. I think I will call and see if raincheck at this price...
Russellc
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Found it! Man their site is tough to navigate (to me)... and the search function... oh well.
Thanks for making me look for a 3rd time!
Extension Kit
Edited to add - Well crud... looks like it's currently out of stock, but I can add it to my "wish list".
Edited again to add just in case other people are looking for something like this - These guys have one... I literally could have walked there a little over a year ago ... E54S 260mm Aluminum Potentiometer Extension Shaft & Stand_Others_Parts & Components_Analog Metric - DIY Audio Kit Developer
Thanks for making me look for a 3rd time!
Extension Kit
Edited to add - Well crud... looks like it's currently out of stock, but I can add it to my "wish list".
Edited again to add just in case other people are looking for something like this - These guys have one... I literally could have walked there a little over a year ago ... E54S 260mm Aluminum Potentiometer Extension Shaft & Stand_Others_Parts & Components_Analog Metric - DIY Audio Kit Developer
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I think I have wiring sorted, and I hope pics too.
One question: Point C on diagram of switch shows 2 wires going there. one from 1-2, and another from 13-14. Is this one from 13-14 "in the circuit board" and only the one from 1-2 to C (center post on selector switch) I think?
Russellc
One question: Point C on diagram of switch shows 2 wires going there. one from 1-2, and another from 13-14. Is this one from 13-14 "in the circuit board" and only the one from 1-2 to C (center post on selector switch) I think?
Russellc
Attachments
![IMG_4776[1].JPG](/community/data/attachments/767/767608-ac60e03d2a7e9d328167651144aae066.jpg)
OK, I asked Mods to move these two posts here; TNX
Russell.....just relax and ignore schematic, if it's making you confused
go back to #815 and read it few times
look at bottom side of pcb , observing IDC connector pins and you'll get it
where I wrote pair or two pairs of pins, being together - they are together electrically, carrying same signal
example - pins 1&2&13&14 are all tied together, routing Relay+ rail to switch
pins 3&4 are tied together, bringing back Relay+ rail (from switch) , to energize Relay 1, enabling input 1
etc.
in any case, until you grasp it completely, do not power it
Russell.....just relax and ignore schematic, if it's making you confused
go back to #815 and read it few times
look at bottom side of pcb , observing IDC connector pins and you'll get it
where I wrote pair or two pairs of pins, being together - they are together electrically, carrying same signal
example - pins 1&2&13&14 are all tied together, routing Relay+ rail to switch
pins 3&4 are tied together, bringing back Relay+ rail (from switch) , to energize Relay 1, enabling input 1
etc.
in any case, until you grasp it completely, do not power it
Guys (not ZM)—would it help at all if I pointed out that the reason there are 2 rows of contacts in the switch zone is because the header blocks you can buy drop right into ZMs layout and fit ready made ribbon connectors that all have 2 x 14 contact points? I was making things very complicated in my noob mind trying to understand why there were 2 rows when it seemed I only needed 6 connections to make it all work.... (...until 6L6 fixed my brain....)
Also, I elected not to hook up a mute position. So I only have the common plus 5 wires running to the Lorlin switch. Common (pad "2" in my case) to "A" on the switch. then 1-5 on switch connected to 4,6,8,10,12 on Iron—No mute in my case—didn't see the point. Then if you want LEDs to light—pull a wire off V+ with a resistor in series for whatever brightness you are going for—connected to "C" on Lorlin switch. Then connect each LED + to the opposite side of the switch for each relay trigger. For "4" on Iron ("1" on Lorlin) which is the first relay the corresponding LED would be "7" on Lorlin and around you go 2/8, 3/9, 4/10, etc. Connect all the LED grounds together and run them to ground on the board. I used the cathodes bent at right angles to make a support bar for the whole LED lineup so it holds together. See post #667 which has my image in it... you can blow it up big enough to see most of the connections—the color coding wasn't to be pretty.
And re: extension setups for pots, I think this is invaluable since it offers a bit of forgiveness in the connections:
Cool connector of joint forgivness
Fair warning though that the tolerances on those is kinda wild. You may need to sand down the shaft a bit to make it fit. Not hard, just takes time and bit of sandpaper.
Also, I elected not to hook up a mute position. So I only have the common plus 5 wires running to the Lorlin switch. Common (pad "2" in my case) to "A" on the switch. then 1-5 on switch connected to 4,6,8,10,12 on Iron—No mute in my case—didn't see the point. Then if you want LEDs to light—pull a wire off V+ with a resistor in series for whatever brightness you are going for—connected to "C" on Lorlin switch. Then connect each LED + to the opposite side of the switch for each relay trigger. For "4" on Iron ("1" on Lorlin) which is the first relay the corresponding LED would be "7" on Lorlin and around you go 2/8, 3/9, 4/10, etc. Connect all the LED grounds together and run them to ground on the board. I used the cathodes bent at right angles to make a support bar for the whole LED lineup so it holds together. See post #667 which has my image in it... you can blow it up big enough to see most of the connections—the color coding wasn't to be pretty.
And re: extension setups for pots, I think this is invaluable since it offers a bit of forgiveness in the connections:
Cool connector of joint forgivness
Fair warning though that the tolerances on those is kinda wild. You may need to sand down the shaft a bit to make it fit. Not hard, just takes time and bit of sandpaper.
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OK, I asked Mods to move these two posts here; TNX
Russell.....just relax and ignore schematic, if it's making you confused
go back to #815 and read it few times
look at bottom side of pcb , observing IDC connector pins and you'll get it
where I wrote pair or two pairs of pins, being together - they are together electrically, carrying same signal
example - pins 1&2&13&14 are all tied together, routing Relay+ rail to switch
pins 3&4 are tied together, bringing back Relay+ rail (from switch) , to energize Relay 1, enabling input 1
etc.
in any case, until you grasp it completely, do not power it
I'm pretty sure I've got it sorted in head now. Just wanted to make sure of "second" wire in schematic wasnt something I missed.
Looks like pin #1 will go to C on selector switch. 4,6,8 and 12 will go to respective places on five selector pins of selector switch. I will post pics of wiring before powering up.
Listened to it a long time today both music and videos. Will take it upstairs to vinyl system. Its in bedroom. "mini monitor" type Speakers but with 7.5 inch midwoofers. They were a collaboration build from Zilch, Ray and a few others over on AK several years ago. (RIP Zilch)
Big giant sound stage in that somewhat smaller room. BA3 power amp, BA3 FE with Pearl 2. Cant wait to try Iron pre in this system.
Russellc
regarding LEDs - you're speaking of last iteration , Light Show, made few months ago - entire package
previous iterations of pcbs are not having enabled LED option - for which you need to bring negative lead all the way to switch
to have that, I rewired IDC connectors , so there are now positive common for Relays/LEDs, positive returns for Relays/LEDs and negative common for LEDs, all taken to switch
so, difference
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