About the 2nd order harmonics distortion (I think Harry's sentence regarding tube injection miss the word "distortion")... you can get that using AD827 op-amp...
Frankly I never use AD827, but check the datasheet... it shows that the 2nd order distortion is a lot higher than the 3rd order...
While on OPA627... distortion is soooo low, that I don't think I need to care whether it is on odd or even order...
REgards,
---
David
Frankly I never use AD827, but check the datasheet... it shows that the 2nd order distortion is a lot higher than the 3rd order...
While on OPA627... distortion is soooo low, that I don't think I need to care whether it is on odd or even order...
REgards,
---
David
I mean the 2nd order distortion adds to the sound.
Everything you do affects the sound. Not just the
pre-amp. Also the better you make it the more
you reveal other flaws (DAC/Wires/Speakers etc).
As for gain: If you have a gain of 20 that may be
enough for a cd player but itr may not be enough
for listening to movies. My DVD has about 15 dB
less than my DAC. My pre-amp uses a buffer
(line stage) that can be converted to a 15 dB
gain with a relay. This works well. However
now I've increased the gain on my power amp
and the gain is not longer necessary.
I'm wondering why you would want to color your
sound. In my opninion if you need to then there's
still something not to your satifaction. You should
look at all your components and see what needs
work.
I'n my opinion pots are not the right way to go. You need
very low impedance to reduce noise and increase detail.
5-10k is probably ideal.
Try the shunt pot: 5k in series and a 100k var
resistor from signal to ground. Buy a cheap OPA2134
and add a good power supply to it. You don't need
anything else (Except a resistor to shunt signal to ground).
Hook the output to your gain clone (With a short wire).
As a starters power the OPA2134 with 2 9V batteries.
Very simple. You can even assemble this on a breadboard.
And go from there.
Harry
Everything you do affects the sound. Not just the
pre-amp. Also the better you make it the more
you reveal other flaws (DAC/Wires/Speakers etc).
As for gain: If you have a gain of 20 that may be
enough for a cd player but itr may not be enough
for listening to movies. My DVD has about 15 dB
less than my DAC. My pre-amp uses a buffer
(line stage) that can be converted to a 15 dB
gain with a relay. This works well. However
now I've increased the gain on my power amp
and the gain is not longer necessary.
I'm wondering why you would want to color your
sound. In my opninion if you need to then there's
still something not to your satifaction. You should
look at all your components and see what needs
work.
I'n my opinion pots are not the right way to go. You need
very low impedance to reduce noise and increase detail.
5-10k is probably ideal.
Try the shunt pot: 5k in series and a 100k var
resistor from signal to ground. Buy a cheap OPA2134
and add a good power supply to it. You don't need
anything else (Except a resistor to shunt signal to ground).
Hook the output to your gain clone (With a short wire).
As a starters power the OPA2134 with 2 9V batteries.
Very simple. You can even assemble this on a breadboard.
And go from there.
Harry
Thx Mr. h_andree!!!Thx for ur opinion.I see you has many experience in tube amp.m Many people said that tube amp has a good transient faster than solid state and give a warm sound. So, if tube have a faster transient, the tube amp would be have a good response to produce sound then solidstate(chipamp), and tube amp have a good slew rate.
maybe. When i brought this GC to test this amp in front of some people which like tube amp, they said that, This GC don't have "dynamic sound". I don't know what is "dynamic sound"???How to produce dynamic sound by GC??
And they also said that this GC don't have a "emotion sound", can anyone help me to improve this GC to have more complex sound?
Or by add a AD827 which can inject 2nd order harmonic sound like tube, but that ic still can't beat tube in transient.
h_andree what should i do to provide dynamic sound from my GC??Is it possible??
Amps sound different. I think the slew rate of most
solid state amps is higher then tubes (Unless
you get a very large tube amp). I know what they mean.
A tube amp sounds warmer. Actually my tube amps cut some
of the high and low frequencies. This could be percieved as
warm. For this you can add a low pass filter.
The tube amps are very linear. This results in very nice
sound.
Many solid state amps suffer from grain. This could be caused
by cross-over distortion that does not get smoothed out.
That's why I like ultra low distortion. I think the main culprit
is the components. I tried 7 brands of resistors in the feedback
loop. They all sounded different. 3 of them had that really
grainy solid state sound I don't like.
I also find that the power supply makes a big difference.
A pre-amp that runs on batteries sounds wonderful.
You take that as a standard and build a power supply to
match. I use toroid transformers, lots of filtering
capacitance, voltage regulators, more filtering caps.
and caps on the chip pins.
Emotional: This is a matter of opninion. If you really
like a specific amp with all it's flaws then you have no
way to improve. However, I was playing some of
my older music with the new chip amps and I was
very emotionally involved with the music.
I love the increased details so much that I'll take
the more analytical sound for granted.
This is not by every solid state amps. I tried a
Classe CAP151 on my rig. This amp was very poor
and did not compare to the tubes.
It's all in the implementation.
All I would say is keep it simple and try to experiment
with different components and keep listening.
You will hit golden sound. At the moment I do
not know a commercial system that sounds much
better then mine. Although mine is not perfect.
Harry
solid state amps is higher then tubes (Unless
you get a very large tube amp). I know what they mean.
A tube amp sounds warmer. Actually my tube amps cut some
of the high and low frequencies. This could be percieved as
warm. For this you can add a low pass filter.
The tube amps are very linear. This results in very nice
sound.
Many solid state amps suffer from grain. This could be caused
by cross-over distortion that does not get smoothed out.
That's why I like ultra low distortion. I think the main culprit
is the components. I tried 7 brands of resistors in the feedback
loop. They all sounded different. 3 of them had that really
grainy solid state sound I don't like.
I also find that the power supply makes a big difference.
A pre-amp that runs on batteries sounds wonderful.
You take that as a standard and build a power supply to
match. I use toroid transformers, lots of filtering
capacitance, voltage regulators, more filtering caps.
and caps on the chip pins.
Emotional: This is a matter of opninion. If you really
like a specific amp with all it's flaws then you have no
way to improve. However, I was playing some of
my older music with the new chip amps and I was
very emotionally involved with the music.
I love the increased details so much that I'll take
the more analytical sound for granted.
This is not by every solid state amps. I tried a
Classe CAP151 on my rig. This amp was very poor
and did not compare to the tubes.
It's all in the implementation.
All I would say is keep it simple and try to experiment
with different components and keep listening.
You will hit golden sound. At the moment I do
not know a commercial system that sounds much
better then mine. Although mine is not perfect.
Harry
Different combination of componenets will change the result,Thx Harry.My GC use a standard resistor(metal film)and i wan't to change with roderstein/holco, maybe the sound will be different.
Mr.Harry, what is ur preamp which u suggestion for this 3886NI GC???
I will try to build some buffer with 6922(buffer) tube+OPA 2134(provide gain). Although 6922 used for buffer but the sound will have a tube characteristic, like JLTi design.
MR.Harry, why u don't try to build a PSU for ur preamp??
Can u give me ur preamp schematic??I need a preamp.
Yesterday i found many headphone amp, is it suitabel for GC??like Cmoy???
Actually, i really confused to decided what preamp should i use.
I still don't uderstand about to get Dynamic sound??Do you know what is dynamic sound?
regards
---------
TomZ
TomZ,
I did build a PSU for my pre-amp. My point was for trying a battery
will give you very good sound. If you screw up the the PSU the
sound will be worse. So you compare what you build with the
sound of batteries. I have 2 PSUs one for the digital/relay part
and one for the analogue part. The analogue one uses a
50VA toroid Hammond transformer +/- 12 V. This is recitfied
by MUR820s. Then I use 6600 uF on the output. But I also
have a 68000uF cap from +V to -V. I use standard 7812-7912
voltage regulators (The 1.5A versions). I use another 2200 uF
per rail after the regulator (Which probably is not necessary
and maybe even too much). The I regulate it down to +/-9V
with a set of 7809-7909 regulators.
It's also a quick way to evaluate the quality of your pre-amp board.
My pre-amp is actually the headphone amp that was presented in
CarlosFM thread. It's based on the BUF634 datasheet. I used
3.3k Vishay VT52 resistors in the feedback loops and configured
it for a gain of 1. Optionally I can lower the -Vin resistor to
600 ohms which gives me about 5.5 gain.
I use no input caps. I use the Vishay VT55 47ohms in series
with the output.
I use Omron (Silver contatc) switched relays in a ladder. I use a Vishay 5k s102 resistor in series and then shunt a combination of 5-100k Holco H8 resistors from signal to ground to attenuate. That gives a range of about 55-60dB and then with the gain I get a 75 dB range.
I wired everything with silver wires from HomeGrownAudio.com
The relays are set by a latch serial shift register and this is
driven though an optocoupler by an external microcontroller.
The microcontroller has an IR sensor hooked up. So I have
remote switching.
I also build the phono addicts pre-amp. It all sounds very
nice.
Harry
I did build a PSU for my pre-amp. My point was for trying a battery
will give you very good sound. If you screw up the the PSU the
sound will be worse. So you compare what you build with the
sound of batteries. I have 2 PSUs one for the digital/relay part
and one for the analogue part. The analogue one uses a
50VA toroid Hammond transformer +/- 12 V. This is recitfied
by MUR820s. Then I use 6600 uF on the output. But I also
have a 68000uF cap from +V to -V. I use standard 7812-7912
voltage regulators (The 1.5A versions). I use another 2200 uF
per rail after the regulator (Which probably is not necessary
and maybe even too much). The I regulate it down to +/-9V
with a set of 7809-7909 regulators.
It's also a quick way to evaluate the quality of your pre-amp board.
My pre-amp is actually the headphone amp that was presented in
CarlosFM thread. It's based on the BUF634 datasheet. I used
3.3k Vishay VT52 resistors in the feedback loops and configured
it for a gain of 1. Optionally I can lower the -Vin resistor to
600 ohms which gives me about 5.5 gain.
I use no input caps. I use the Vishay VT55 47ohms in series
with the output.
I use Omron (Silver contatc) switched relays in a ladder. I use a Vishay 5k s102 resistor in series and then shunt a combination of 5-100k Holco H8 resistors from signal to ground to attenuate. That gives a range of about 55-60dB and then with the gain I get a 75 dB range.
I wired everything with silver wires from HomeGrownAudio.com
The relays are set by a latch serial shift register and this is
driven though an optocoupler by an external microcontroller.
The microcontroller has an IR sensor hooked up. So I have
remote switching.
I also build the phono addicts pre-amp. It all sounds very
nice.
Harry
No you cannot use 637 with unity gain. You need to
use the 627.
I know that the 6922 gives a good sound. There's
only so many projects you can try (for time and
money).
Like I said the sound I now have is fantastics. I spend
about $1000 in parts for my pre-amp another $1500
for my power amps. I already spend over 250 hours on
the projects. To build another quality tube buffer
would cost at least another $600-1000.
I need to address analogue active cross-overs for
my speakers. I want to also a HTPC. And then I
need to build an upsampling DAC. So I have at least
for the next year work for me cut out.
use the 627.
I know that the 6922 gives a good sound. There's
only so many projects you can try (for time and
money).
Like I said the sound I now have is fantastics. I spend
about $1000 in parts for my pre-amp another $1500
for my power amps. I already spend over 250 hours on
the projects. To build another quality tube buffer
would cost at least another $600-1000.
I need to address analogue active cross-overs for
my speakers. I want to also a HTPC. And then I
need to build an upsampling DAC. So I have at least
for the next year work for me cut out.
wow,u have spent much money for this project. My friends offer me a holco resistor and roderstein, which is suitable for GC??I found many design about 6922 as a buffer, like sijosae website. But i still don't know what is the best design for 6922 buffer.
Maybe, use a battery for power supply is better than using transformator, because battery doesn't inject any hum.
Harry, do you know the meaning of "dynamic sound"??
How to get that "dynamic sound"???
ANd how to get a good "deep sound"??
Maybe i can use some relay to provide a source selector with microcontroller which familiar for me Atmel 89s51, attach a lcd for monitor
Harry, i want to ask ur opinion. Can GC beats ur $1000's power amps?or beat other brand amps??
A dynamic sound is a sound that starts from nowhere
and stops instantaneously. In my opinion for this
you need a huge power supply. Any sag in voltage
will sound less dynamic. You also want to have low
noise. This means low value resistors in the signal
path.
I like roderstein resistors but found them to be a little
bright with some glare. I prefer Holco.
My $1500 power amp is a gain clone. I think it rivals
any power amp in the $10k category. I prefer it
over a $4k Krell $5k Bryston.
I really like the $6k Bell Canto. I like the $10K
Pathos and the $40k VTL monoblocks. A well
designed gainclone with decent parts can compete with
these.
I build a simple GC first. Without buffer they do not get
thsi quality. It's nice for vocals but a buffer will make the sound
tighter. Also the GC does not work well with low impedance.
The dynamic nature becomes worse. Parallel this and the chip will
see a high impedance.
If you want to go cheap use a low impedance volume control
and buffer and then if you have 8ohm speakers you're set.
Make sure the power supply is over dimensioned.
Personally I disagree with the low capacitance on the gain clone.
I found that the bass tightened up with more capacitance
in every instance I've built.
Harry
and stops instantaneously. In my opinion for this
you need a huge power supply. Any sag in voltage
will sound less dynamic. You also want to have low
noise. This means low value resistors in the signal
path.
I like roderstein resistors but found them to be a little
bright with some glare. I prefer Holco.
My $1500 power amp is a gain clone. I think it rivals
any power amp in the $10k category. I prefer it
over a $4k Krell $5k Bryston.
I really like the $6k Bell Canto. I like the $10K
Pathos and the $40k VTL monoblocks. A well
designed gainclone with decent parts can compete with
these.
I build a simple GC first. Without buffer they do not get
thsi quality. It's nice for vocals but a buffer will make the sound
tighter. Also the GC does not work well with low impedance.
The dynamic nature becomes worse. Parallel this and the chip will
see a high impedance.
If you want to go cheap use a low impedance volume control
and buffer and then if you have 8ohm speakers you're set.
Make sure the power supply is over dimensioned.
Personally I disagree with the low capacitance on the gain clone.
I found that the bass tightened up with more capacitance
in every instance I've built.
Harry
What's ur mean Harry??Should i use 20k or lower volume pot??
I think a buffer will work and usefull for inverted GC amp, not very usefull for non inverted version, is it true?
]So, if i add a buffer to My 3886NI, whats happened to the sound?become tight and clear?
I use a power supply like carlosfm snubber. I use bridge diode
+ 2200uFx2+470uF+snubber(R+100nF in series), but i don't add bleeder resistor.
I want to know, what happened if i don't add bleeder resistor?
Is it good if i use 10000uF or over, so my GC have high capacitance??Many people said that if we use high capacitance, the "magic"treble and middle sound will be lost.
What do you mean??
I think, i must test my GC with another people so i will get other opinion, maybe that people don't have same perception about dynamic sound. Because some people said that my GC amp have a good "speed"in produce sound, tight, fast.
Harry, my i know ur schematic of ur GC??What version do you use??Non inverted or inverted version???And what power supply do you use??My i know ur PSU schematic??
regards
----------
TomZ
I use NI gainclone. I've only used the 3875 so far.
I used teh data sheet. I use 21k feedback resistor and
I've used anywhere from 680-1k ohm resistors from
-Vin to ground. I found the effect of DC blocking
caps to be less damaging to the sound then the
quality of the resistors.
I think the 2200uF gives some glare. I find that
adding 68000uF per rail tightens the bass.
My BPA regulated amp has 300,000uF filtering caps.
It sounds wonderful.
Also the buffer improves the sound of the NI GC.
Resistors prodcue noise. The higher the value the more
noise. This starts to be noticable > 20k. So the lower
you go with impedance the less noise and the cleaner the
sound. You cannot go too low with a volume control since
some of the source will not like very low impedance.
Another advantage of low impednace pots is that the capacitance
of the cables becomes less important.
I follow this in all my current designs. I try never to insert
impedance >5k in the signal path.
In terms of opinion about sound. You can build a fantastic
amp and people will still not like it. You need to set your
own goals and try to achieve it. Also remember all
pieces of a stereo affect the sound. You need to
consider everything. For example
if you make an amp transparent now noise from your DAC
that previously was filtered will be reproduced. Same for
wiring flaw, jitter. A bright tweeter that previously was masked
by HF roll-off in an amp may now sound too bright. You may have
to rebuild other components. It also has to match. I do not
think it's a good idea to use a single chip on a 12" woofer or
larger. Thw power from a single chip is not big enough to dampen
the bass and the bass sound becomes unrefined. I build
a speaker for a friend of mine using 2 x 12" woofers. This
speaker is difficult to drive. He first had Cary 572 not
enough power (Although they worked very well with
bookshelf speakers). Then I build him a gianclone: Beautiful
midrange and high frequency but floppy bass. Then he got
Odyssey power amps: He claims that they do not sound
as good as the gainclone but have a better bass. For that
speaker he really needs a very powerful amp. If you
have Martin Logan then you probably need an amp that can
drive very low impedance (~1ohm). This is bad for tubes and
single gainclones.
Personally I probably have to readjust my speakers once my amps
are broken in. The high frequency response is much more extended
and flatter but i probably have to bring up my midrange with 1-2
dB.
My (main) equipment is the following:
Pioneer PD65 Elite CD player
Audio alchemy jitter reducer.
Theta Basic DAC
CarlosFM Pre-amp
BPA design with 8 chips per amp.
Speakers: Home made: Neform research 645 (45").
Midrange 6 x Focal 5" keval (5k4411) and 2 x 8"
Scan speak carbon fiber woofers in a 70l enclosure.
Wires: Interconnect are all HomeGrownAudio pure
silver braided wire. Speaker wire is Chris Venhaus
Cat-5 braided wire (Very good better then Audioquests Type 4 and
topaz).
Harry
I used teh data sheet. I use 21k feedback resistor and
I've used anywhere from 680-1k ohm resistors from
-Vin to ground. I found the effect of DC blocking
caps to be less damaging to the sound then the
quality of the resistors.
I think the 2200uF gives some glare. I find that
adding 68000uF per rail tightens the bass.
My BPA regulated amp has 300,000uF filtering caps.
It sounds wonderful.
Also the buffer improves the sound of the NI GC.
Resistors prodcue noise. The higher the value the more
noise. This starts to be noticable > 20k. So the lower
you go with impedance the less noise and the cleaner the
sound. You cannot go too low with a volume control since
some of the source will not like very low impedance.
Another advantage of low impednace pots is that the capacitance
of the cables becomes less important.
I follow this in all my current designs. I try never to insert
impedance >5k in the signal path.
In terms of opinion about sound. You can build a fantastic
amp and people will still not like it. You need to set your
own goals and try to achieve it. Also remember all
pieces of a stereo affect the sound. You need to
consider everything. For example
if you make an amp transparent now noise from your DAC
that previously was filtered will be reproduced. Same for
wiring flaw, jitter. A bright tweeter that previously was masked
by HF roll-off in an amp may now sound too bright. You may have
to rebuild other components. It also has to match. I do not
think it's a good idea to use a single chip on a 12" woofer or
larger. Thw power from a single chip is not big enough to dampen
the bass and the bass sound becomes unrefined. I build
a speaker for a friend of mine using 2 x 12" woofers. This
speaker is difficult to drive. He first had Cary 572 not
enough power (Although they worked very well with
bookshelf speakers). Then I build him a gianclone: Beautiful
midrange and high frequency but floppy bass. Then he got
Odyssey power amps: He claims that they do not sound
as good as the gainclone but have a better bass. For that
speaker he really needs a very powerful amp. If you
have Martin Logan then you probably need an amp that can
drive very low impedance (~1ohm). This is bad for tubes and
single gainclones.
Personally I probably have to readjust my speakers once my amps
are broken in. The high frequency response is much more extended
and flatter but i probably have to bring up my midrange with 1-2
dB.
My (main) equipment is the following:
Pioneer PD65 Elite CD player
Audio alchemy jitter reducer.
Theta Basic DAC
CarlosFM Pre-amp
BPA design with 8 chips per amp.
Speakers: Home made: Neform research 645 (45").
Midrange 6 x Focal 5" keval (5k4411) and 2 x 8"
Scan speak carbon fiber woofers in a 70l enclosure.
Wires: Interconnect are all HomeGrownAudio pure
silver braided wire. Speaker wire is Chris Venhaus
Cat-5 braided wire (Very good better then Audioquests Type 4 and
topaz).
Harry
About the bleeder.
I do not think you need it. The chips will drain most of
the capacitor if they are connected. Adding a bleeder
on the caps makes sre they completely discharge and
also makes sure they discharge when the chips
are broken. In my amp I use LM338 regulators
with a shunt. The shunt will always work as a
bleeder (In addition I've added 10k on the main caps).
I use the regulated power supply as posted by Carlos.
I'm using a pair of LM338 for every 2 chips. I have
them regulated at +/-29V (+/- 0.01V). I use 1500 uF
after the regulator and 47uF on the chips (Bypassed
with .01uF mkt).
I bought 1000 low ESR Nichicon 47uF for $10 on
ebay so I use them everywhere. If you go regulated
make sure you have a decent heatsink for the LM338.
Harry
I do not think you need it. The chips will drain most of
the capacitor if they are connected. Adding a bleeder
on the caps makes sre they completely discharge and
also makes sure they discharge when the chips
are broken. In my amp I use LM338 regulators
with a shunt. The shunt will always work as a
bleeder (In addition I've added 10k on the main caps).
I use the regulated power supply as posted by Carlos.
I'm using a pair of LM338 for every 2 chips. I have
them regulated at +/-29V (+/- 0.01V). I use 1500 uF
after the regulator and 47uF on the chips (Bypassed
with .01uF mkt).
I bought 1000 low ESR Nichicon 47uF for $10 on
ebay so I use them everywhere. If you go regulated
make sure you have a decent heatsink for the LM338.
Harry
Thanks Harry for ur attention.I'm still looking for buffer schematic using 6922 and i want to join that tube with a opa2134 to provide a gain become preamp for GC. And i'm still confusing about resistor before + pin in NI version. In a basic opamp theory especially NI, there is no resistor in + pin, but why some people add a 1k resistor??For stability??If u said that using a high resistor value (>20k) will produce noise, how about if i use 220 ohm as a Rfeedback and 10 ohm as Rin??so, it still provide 23x gain.
I'm still confuse about capasitance, maybe i will try to add a big capasitor in power supply, so the bass sound will be clearer and enough "boom" sound not very tight bass.
I'm interested with ur cat-5 cable can u show me ur reference site to build cat-5 cable?And, about jitter reducer, can we build DIY Jitter reducer??
regards
-----------
TomZ
In theory the lower the impedance the better. However
the current will also increase which may make the chip
less linear. I haven't tried the lower impedance
feedback loop. Carlos has posted high schematics
on lower impedance. Just search this forum.
This is the link for cat-5 speaker wire:
http://www.venhaus1.com/diycatfivecables.html
The wires are a lot of work. It took me 50 hours for
a 20 feet pair. They need breaking in (About 50-100 hours).
The detail and clarity is very good. Better then audioquest
Type 4 and Topaz. I also like Goertz M1 speaker cable.
However the high capacitance causes the sound to be a little
brighter and it may cause problems for some amps.
I think you can build a jitter reducer. It should be capturing
the bits and reclocking them with an external clock. Ideally
this should be build in the DAC. Probably the better DAC do
this already. Jitter is caused by the fact that the CD players
do not use a real digital signal with error correction and
a handshake signal. In stead it's a serial stream. This causes
problems. I found that my $800 Pioneer would perform the
same compared to a $100 DVD player if the signal was reclocked.
I therefore recommend everybody not to waste huge
amounts of money for CD-drives but invest in a good DAC or
add a reclocker (Cheap on E-bay).
I'm planning to go instead with a HTPC. In theory I can load
a song (Or whole CD) into memory in seconds (From HD).
Then if I get an accurate digital sound card I would not need
a reclocker. In theory this should work as good as it gets.
This is the next project.
Harry
the current will also increase which may make the chip
less linear. I haven't tried the lower impedance
feedback loop. Carlos has posted high schematics
on lower impedance. Just search this forum.
This is the link for cat-5 speaker wire:
http://www.venhaus1.com/diycatfivecables.html
The wires are a lot of work. It took me 50 hours for
a 20 feet pair. They need breaking in (About 50-100 hours).
The detail and clarity is very good. Better then audioquest
Type 4 and Topaz. I also like Goertz M1 speaker cable.
However the high capacitance causes the sound to be a little
brighter and it may cause problems for some amps.
I think you can build a jitter reducer. It should be capturing
the bits and reclocking them with an external clock. Ideally
this should be build in the DAC. Probably the better DAC do
this already. Jitter is caused by the fact that the CD players
do not use a real digital signal with error correction and
a handshake signal. In stead it's a serial stream. This causes
problems. I found that my $800 Pioneer would perform the
same compared to a $100 DVD player if the signal was reclocked.
I therefore recommend everybody not to waste huge
amounts of money for CD-drives but invest in a good DAC or
add a reclocker (Cheap on E-bay).
I'm planning to go instead with a HTPC. In theory I can load
a song (Or whole CD) into memory in seconds (From HD).
Then if I get an accurate digital sound card I would not need
a reclocker. In theory this should work as good as it gets.
This is the next project.
Harry
About the bass.
It's all a matter of taste. The really boomy bass comes
usually from wrongly tuned speakers. Manufacturers
tune speakers too high. This causes a peak in high
frequency bass (70-100) Hz. This gives the impression
of good bass. This is not what is recorded. I personnally
find this kind of bas anoying.
In my opinion a really good bass is flat over the whole
response. It goes very deep. Even at low volume it's
able to resonate the furniture. But it never interferes
with midrange (Like the boombox tuning does). Also
a good bass is not excursion limited (Otherwise it
dampens midrange).
When I'm talking about a tighter bass I typically do not
talk about a change in frequency range. A tighter bass is
a bass with a better pronounced attack (It starts suddenly
and loud) and it also stops better (it does not fade out).
These are made by a combination of a well dampened
speaker cabinet and enough power to get the cone going
and a high enough dampening factor to stop the sound.
Remeber that when a large cone resonates and the sound
changes the cone will continue to give a current that can
go back into the amp and change other sounds. A large
dampening factor will minimize this. I know there are
postings of people who say that a dampening factor of 20
is enough. I typically want a factor of 100 or higher.
Harry
It's all a matter of taste. The really boomy bass comes
usually from wrongly tuned speakers. Manufacturers
tune speakers too high. This causes a peak in high
frequency bass (70-100) Hz. This gives the impression
of good bass. This is not what is recorded. I personnally
find this kind of bas anoying.
In my opinion a really good bass is flat over the whole
response. It goes very deep. Even at low volume it's
able to resonate the furniture. But it never interferes
with midrange (Like the boombox tuning does). Also
a good bass is not excursion limited (Otherwise it
dampens midrange).
When I'm talking about a tighter bass I typically do not
talk about a change in frequency range. A tighter bass is
a bass with a better pronounced attack (It starts suddenly
and loud) and it also stops better (it does not fade out).
These are made by a combination of a well dampened
speaker cabinet and enough power to get the cone going
and a high enough dampening factor to stop the sound.
Remeber that when a large cone resonates and the sound
changes the cone will continue to give a current that can
go back into the amp and change other sounds. A large
dampening factor will minimize this. I know there are
postings of people who say that a dampening factor of 20
is enough. I typically want a factor of 100 or higher.
Harry
Wow,Thx for ur excellent posting.I got many infos from u.I have a little Question,what is the best combination of Rfeedback/Rin?I got many option like 15k/470 or 22k/680 or 18k/560 to provide 33x gain. After build 3886 NIGC, i want to build 3875 inverted version based on Thoersten Loesch schematic, but i add some component like 100nF in parallel 1000uF decoupling capasitor, do i need to add this 100nF cap?Please give me an advice in this PCB layout for inv3875.
Do you DIY ur jitter reducer?I'm interesting to build jitter reducer. The output from CD player especially in High Frequency has a grainy/harsh signal, do i need to add a high frequency filter to smooth the signal?please correct me if i'm wrong.
regards
--------
TomZ
Do you DIY ur jitter reducer?I'm interesting to build jitter reducer. The output from CD player especially in High Frequency has a grainy/harsh signal, do i need to add a high frequency filter to smooth the signal?please correct me if i'm wrong.
regards
--------
TomZ
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