Hehe 
I share your thoughts. However, the useful information is there, it's just a matter of filtering.
I had the opportunity to listen to a "smaller" TAD horn setup in Norway using Autotech JHorn and GPA515G. This midbass convienced me in a way that I ordered a pair. It just sounded dead natural, if I can use that description. And the dynamic is way beyond any home need. Hopefully it will integrate with jmlc350/gpa288 the way I expect it to. If that works my "while I build some serious stuff horn setup" should be complete (uhh only threeway + sub here). Just in case my midbass horn selection should be interresting for to you know...
I share your thoughts. However, the useful information is there, it's just a matter of filtering.I had the opportunity to listen to a "smaller" TAD horn setup in Norway using Autotech JHorn and GPA515G. This midbass convienced me in a way that I ordered a pair. It just sounded dead natural, if I can use that description. And the dynamic is way beyond any home need. Hopefully it will integrate with jmlc350/gpa288 the way I expect it to. If that works my "while I build some serious stuff horn setup" should be complete (uhh only threeway + sub here). Just in case my midbass horn selection should be interresting for to you know...
Going back to the original question;
Popular for what use? I have 22 of them (2226's) in use and several spares but none in my home or office. The popularity of them for use in a domestic environment must fall to reputation, availability, value and near indestructibility, oh and the fact they do sound pretty good.
JBL certainly makes 15's that are better suited to critical and or domestic listening.
Barry.
Popular for what use? I have 22 of them (2226's) in use and several spares but none in my home or office. The popularity of them for use in a domestic environment must fall to reputation, availability, value and near indestructibility, oh and the fact they do sound pretty good.
JBL certainly makes 15's that are better suited to critical and or domestic listening.
Barry.
Hi Doug;
In my office I have 2234's with no subs. They are dynamic and honest and are crossed at out at 1KHz.
On the test bench I have 2235's, no subs and they are smooth and easy to integrate, also crossed out at 1KHz.
Both of these are easy to get, easy to integrate and are still supported by JBL with cone kits. The truth is however I have never been knocked out by 2234/2235's. I like them enough to still have some but there is better.
In a system with subs I absolutely love the old 2220's. They have rising response and require EQ somewhere to be their best but they are lightning fast and clean and clear. There is some magic in these but you have to work a bit for it.
My absolute favorite to date is the 1501AL1. They are nearly impossible to get and that's a shame because they are a dream to work with and simply have no short comings that I can find. I have four of them in a pair of highly modified 4350's and I can't get over them.
In the end, if I were going to spend on new, something that can be bought from consumer and pro it would be the 2216Nd as found in the Pro M2 and the consumer S4700. These give up very little to the 1500Al series and use the same type of three layer cone and surround as the 1501Al-2. I had a pair of these for a while and were it not for the 1501-1's I have, I would have 2216's, and I would be happy.
I looked back at my last post and thought wow, that looks like bragging. That was not my intent. What I meant to convey was that I have 2226's, and appreciate them, but I don't think they are the best tool for the job in home. That's an opinion though, Ocean Way Studios use them in one of their really big monitors with a pair of twelves underneath them for subs and they sound better than I could ever make them sound.
The short answer, 2216Nd's.
All the best,
Barry.
In my office I have 2234's with no subs. They are dynamic and honest and are crossed at out at 1KHz.
On the test bench I have 2235's, no subs and they are smooth and easy to integrate, also crossed out at 1KHz.
Both of these are easy to get, easy to integrate and are still supported by JBL with cone kits. The truth is however I have never been knocked out by 2234/2235's. I like them enough to still have some but there is better.
In a system with subs I absolutely love the old 2220's. They have rising response and require EQ somewhere to be their best but they are lightning fast and clean and clear. There is some magic in these but you have to work a bit for it.
My absolute favorite to date is the 1501AL1. They are nearly impossible to get and that's a shame because they are a dream to work with and simply have no short comings that I can find. I have four of them in a pair of highly modified 4350's and I can't get over them.
In the end, if I were going to spend on new, something that can be bought from consumer and pro it would be the 2216Nd as found in the Pro M2 and the consumer S4700. These give up very little to the 1500Al series and use the same type of three layer cone and surround as the 1501Al-2. I had a pair of these for a while and were it not for the 1501-1's I have, I would have 2216's, and I would be happy.
I looked back at my last post and thought wow, that looks like bragging. That was not my intent. What I meant to convey was that I have 2226's, and appreciate them, but I don't think they are the best tool for the job in home. That's an opinion though, Ocean Way Studios use them in one of their really big monitors with a pair of twelves underneath them for subs and they sound better than I could ever make them sound.
The short answer, 2216Nd's.
All the best,
Barry.
They are essentially identical except for the impedance.
Sound should be identical.
Simple
Best wishes
David
It is a little easier and cheaper to build a powerful amp for 4 ohms than 8.
It is easier to parallel transistors to drive a low impedance than to "stack" them to handle more volts.
This mattered more for early transistors that were quite limited in breakdown potential
This is mainly an issue if you have active crossover and drive each speaker with a separate amp, as is common for professional equipment like JBL's market.
Best wishes
David
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I missed your PM because my mailbox was full, until I have the time to empty it, just ask here.
Best wishes
David
I did get some JBL CS 3115 speakers and will have to get an active crossover and some amps (looking at Crown xls2502 or QSC GX5) with a Behringer Dcx2496 crossover. Do you think an older onkyo preamp will work with this set up. It's a p-3200 preamp and has RCA outs instead of xlr out and inputs.
Any advice would be great.
Any advice would be great.
The main concern with bi-amped /tri-amped compression drivers is noise, because the compression driver are so efficient.
I don't know that particular model but Onkyo products I have seen were pretty decently built.
And older "hi-fi" components are often better built than later stuff that seems to be just adequate for MP3 quality.
RCA to XLR shouldn't be a problem, you may need to read up a little to do this optimally. Read Bruno Putzeys' articles on "The G word" or ask in the Solid_State sub forum.
So I would try it and see if it's acceptably quiet at the position you listen, under your conditions.
Best wishes
David