I can only repeat myself, no problems with MeanWell LRS-350-48. Fan isn't spinning at normal listening levels. If it does, it is load/speed-regulated.
Beside this, dead silent on listening place. Regarding Ripple, these supplies pushing hard even at full load with easy and only minor ripple which is dominated by the amp.
About 96dB/W for the mids, 100dB+/W for the highs and something around 102dB/W for the sub.
About 96dB/W for the mids, 100dB+/W for the highs and something around 102dB/W for the sub.
For a PA-system the efficiency should be quite adequate
sorry for confusion, there are 3 boards in this discussion
the POP was only on the black tpa3255 board.
@doctormord diagnosed the reason for the POP on the black board and it was because it was missing a part for the RESET logic.
my tpa3255evm board from TI hasn't arrived yet, but I assume there is no POP since it will properly implement RESET.
It depends on the mean well power supply you get. To run the tpa3255 at full power you would need one of the higher-power meanwell supplies which inevitably come with a fan, but there are exceptions.
Also note that for high-efficency speakers, even though you will be drawing a minimal amount of power from the supply, there are still parts on the supply that get hot and will last longer if you keep them cool.
The SE-600-48 fan stays on all the time, and it is noisy enough to be unusable in a permanent audio situation. I re-cased and re-fanned the power supply to make it quiet and am very happy with the result. This supply has a decent ripple spec at 200mVp-p.
The USP-500-48 is a fanless supply with good power, but needs good heat-sinking to remain fanless. They actually rate it separately for fanless (400w) and fanful (500w) installations. I'm going to try this one in a fully heat-sinked, fanless case. This supply has an even better ripple spec at 150mVp-p.
The fully enclosed and potted mean well supplies, such as the HEP-600-48 would be completely silent, but they're a bit more expensive and have higher ripple at 350mVp-p.
Yes! But either get a fanless supply or replace the fan with a larger, lower-RPM one. OR, add resistance on the positive fan wire to drop RPM to a suitably quiet level.
Lower ripple is almost always better, but at the 150-300mV level should have almost no impact on anything.
Are these ripple specs measured at full output power or taken from the datasheet?
Hmm, the supply designer took care of this already, so no need to put extra efforts into that. If the supply is equipped with forced cooling, the designer/engineer also had chosen a proper fan to met the specs - putting some series resistance isn't the best way to go as, you already said, parts will last longer if you keep them cool.
Have you ever tried the LRS supplies from MW?
(I wonder if anything from the supply is heard when having some 600W music on the ears)
Hmm, the supply designer took care of this already, so no need to put extra efforts into that. If the supply is equipped with forced cooling, the designer/engineer also had chosen a proper fan to met the specs - putting some series resistance isn't the best way to go as, you already said, parts will last longer if you keep them cool.
Have you ever tried the LRS supplies from MW?
(I wonder if anything from the supply is heard when having some 600W music on the ears)
From the datasheet
Agreed! And I would not recommend changing it for anyone who doesn't have some experience with electronics cooling. For me, it is something I've spent a lot of time on and feel comfortable with.
The fan in the se-600-48 is just too loud in a living/listening room, even at lowest RPM, unless you put it in a cabinet. So I compromised the engineer-designed cooling to produce less noise. If you run the supply to its current limit, this could be a problem. But with a low-current load it I think it is fine.
For my setup, I did away with the factory case and its 60mm fan. I put the supply in a larger aluminum case to allow more airflow particularly around the bottom of the board. I placed a 92mm fan running a much lower RPM directly above and blowing downward onto the *front* part of the board where there is a concentration of hot parts. The factory fan at the back of the board relies on a longitudinal heatsink to cool the front of the board.
No, but your earlier post has piqued my interest, and I am thinking about trying the LRS-350-48. I really like the standby efficiency and form factor of the LRS-350-48...although it has a fan. The higher-current supplies are really more appropriate for driving large subwoofer drivers, so I can easily see using the LRS in an apartment-sized system.
A related question: what do you think about PFC in power supplies for audio?
No, you only hear BASS!
Awaiting your comparison of these 2 boards.
I am planning to purchase a 3255 board but only ONE.
Finally got time today to hookup the 3e-audio EAUMT-260 and compare it with the black YJ tpa3255. Subjective sound-wise, I hear no difference but my ears have not been callbrated in quite some time.
But the 3e-audio board has several things to recommend it above the YJ board:
It has no POP, dead silence with no input connected, and only the slightest hiss with preamp connected directly without a volume pot.
The glaring problem with the black YJ board is the missing logic part covered by @doctormord in previous posts. Without his recommended fix, the board cannot be safely used without having a loud DC POP at power on. These boards are getting cheaper on ebay now, but i guess buy at your own risk or confirm with the vendor you get a "fixed" board.
The 3e-audio board is notable in how tiny it is for its output pwer. It would be *ideal* for a multi-amp solution where you put multiple boards in one case. It has DC power passthrough for connecting multiple boards in series to a single power supply. 3 of these in one box would make a badass 5.1 system.
The 3e-audio has a header to support remote (panel-mount) LEDs and RESET, and jumpers for using either balanced or unbalanced connections. YJ does not.
And while there are "no points for pretty", the 3e-audio board is indeed very attractive (if you like that kind of thing). If nothing else, I infer from this a designer who cares enough about his product to put extra time and effort into it, and that is something I can appreciate. It's not something you get with every board you buy.
I completely agree with your review.
This is my experience also.
I'll post some pics later.
Thanks
Tpa3255evm
Got it today...
Just perfect...
This one does everything I like...
Dead quiet, works with my battery and convertor set to 36vdc.
Defenitely better bass...
Should have bought it from the start...
Ok was fun to try 3 different boards and it did not cost me a lot of money...
At about 80 euro...do not hesitate, buy it while you can...
Delivered within a week...perfect service from TI...
Got it today...
Just perfect...
This one does everything I like...
Dead quiet, works with my battery and convertor set to 36vdc.
Defenitely better bass...
Should have bought it from the start...
Ok was fun to try 3 different boards and it did not cost me a lot of money...
At about 80 euro...do not hesitate, buy it while you can...
Delivered within a week...perfect service from TI...
You have all three boards?
The jy and 3-audio sound ok...but I get a bit bored listening to these boards...
Not very revealing and the 3-audio lacks body (bass)...
But hey, that is in my system, with my preferred music...
For me the TI does ring my bell...it sings...I do not get bored...
Btw...I am not looking for a worldrecord watts...I only need a few watts to feed my 94dB efficient speakers...
To give you an idea what amps I like...Quad 303, QuadII, Radford STA15, Michaelson an Austin TVA1, Altmann BYOB...
For those who have an another opinion...it is a free world and we all may have different tastes...
If you really want to find out for yourself...buy them all and pick one you like, or buy a high end amp for about 100 times that price (I used to do that)...
This is more fun...
would you care to elaboratefor a simpleton like me?
if the power is cut with a switch (or a power cut) on the mains side, to the smps which powers amps and minidsp together, how can i gracefully shutdown and avoid pops and bangs?
its all very well using the minidsp remote to switch off gently, but if my GF or kid hit the big power button on the amp, or the power goes out (happens a lot here) will my speakers be ok? i assumed that a state-of-the art chip like the 3255 would be rock solid in its speaker protection..
i have a gainclone which i built a few years ago, it has no speaker relays or suchlike, and only makes the slightest "tick" when activating or killing the power..