Hi Niels K,
The first L15P540 dates from early nineties. When it was released RCF made three groups of woofers; "Extended Low Frequency Woofers" , "Low Frequency Woofers" and "High Power Woofers".
These three groups were then part of two series; "LAB series"; low distortion with linear response at low frequencies and "PRO series"; more linear in the midband and could withstand high power over a longer period.
The L15P540 was part of the "PRO series"; and described "High Power Woofer" (10dB crest factor). In other words, they were designed to be used as midbass woofers in relative high tuned multiway systems, like the RCF Event 6000 and 4000 for instance. The Thiele Small parameters talk for themselves...
Cheers,
Djim
The first L15P540 dates from early nineties. When it was released RCF made three groups of woofers; "Extended Low Frequency Woofers" , "Low Frequency Woofers" and "High Power Woofers".
These three groups were then part of two series; "LAB series"; low distortion with linear response at low frequencies and "PRO series"; more linear in the midband and could withstand high power over a longer period.
The L15P540 was part of the "PRO series"; and described "High Power Woofer" (10dB crest factor). In other words, they were designed to be used as midbass woofers in relative high tuned multiway systems, like the RCF Event 6000 and 4000 for instance. The Thiele Small parameters talk for themselves...
Cheers,
Djim
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Define 25dB headroom (this is a power factor of 316 times), I think you have the cat by the balls.
For a slightly bigger mobile set-up, you could just plug your speaker straight into the wall-socket
Thanks for all the overwhelming feedback. From your posts I get the following:
- The drivers are maybe not that suitable for producing low frequency bass.
- The boxes and port are actually quite alright size/design-wise.
- Playing the boxes alone will sound horrible, they are meant to be played all together with the rest of the sound system.
- I need to add a low cut filter at around 40Hz to protect the speakers from bottoming out
- I could try adding some dampening material. (what would I expect from it?)
- I should check that speakers are in phase (wired correctly all the way from amp to driver + to +, - to -. I'm pretty sure they are, but will check)
- I'm not sure what this means:
Did I miss any points?
- The drivers are maybe not that suitable for producing low frequency bass.
- The boxes and port are actually quite alright size/design-wise.
- Playing the boxes alone will sound horrible, they are meant to be played all together with the rest of the sound system.
- I need to add a low cut filter at around 40Hz to protect the speakers from bottoming out
- I could try adding some dampening material. (what would I expect from it?)
- I should check that speakers are in phase (wired correctly all the way from amp to driver + to +, - to -. I'm pretty sure they are, but will check)
- I'm not sure what this means:
- I'm unsure what this means as well:
Did I miss any points?
They are suitable to produce low frequencies, but not suitable to produce anything else.
You need to check that ALL the drivers that make up the system reproduce in phase, not just wired up with the same polarity. There's a difference.
Hmm okay, how would I check that?
My system is very simple, I have two Amps:
One powering a pair of 2 way full range speakers Beyma model B-22/9 https://issuu.com/pali_tl/docs/beyma_enclosure/c/smei4qs
The other powering the two subs.
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They are suitable to produce low frequencies, but not suitable to produce anything else.
Totally agreed on this!
I think you what you should also consider is the possibilty that our "trained" hearing capability from all various clubs parties etc. are maybe a bit "misstrained. I know this feeling i had when i was finishing my first own subs...wao from my modling point of view they musst be..., bass musst punch me in the guts, the whole crap :-D, and than when fired up. Nothing i exspected...so why s this?
First i had to learn and to understand what mostly modern music consists of and how it ist served to us, and the most important thing that the vast number of systems out there are totally crap or are miss alignt from the soundtechnicians, because they thought hey jeah big peak from 90 too 200 hz thats bass! no its not ;-).
So you built a sub, aaaand jeah its doing what its supposed to do...Bass and trust me take your time and go into hearing again, take songs you know well for years, setup your system with your mains align them well and hear
Swann.
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Hi NielsK,
Post #23 "...- I'm unsure what this means as well: Quote (from Post #12), originally Posted by tb46..."
In Post #12, I added a Hornresp simulation, showing that even if you double the port area (4ea. ports: 10cm Dia. ea. and 25.4cm long ea.) the peak particle velocity is still higher than desired. The file RCF15P.txt is the exported Hornresp simulation, and you can import it into Hornresp to take another look at your design.
But, if the T/S parameters of your drivers are similar to the data sheet parameters, your box should sound fine at normal volumes. For measuring T/S parameters, see: Measuring Loudspeaker Driver Parameters
Regards,
Post #23 "...- I'm unsure what this means as well: Quote (from Post #12), originally Posted by tb46..."
In Post #12, I added a Hornresp simulation, showing that even if you double the port area (4ea. ports: 10cm Dia. ea. and 25.4cm long ea.) the peak particle velocity is still higher than desired. The file RCF15P.txt is the exported Hornresp simulation, and you can import it into Hornresp to take another look at your design.
But, if the T/S parameters of your drivers are similar to the data sheet parameters, your box should sound fine at normal volumes. For measuring T/S parameters, see: Measuring Loudspeaker Driver Parameters
Regards,
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