Wharfedale Full Range Loudspeakers

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Hi Victório, I have a couple of cab designs. Info on the classic Wharfedales is hard to come by. IIRC resonance on the 12s is about 24Hz. They have long travel suspension - 3/8" Power is 10W and about 93dB/watt. Quoted freq resp on all RSDD 20-20K, no reference given. They don't like small boxes. 2 1/2 cu ft with a duct is minimum, better in 4 or 5 cu ft aperiodic.

Try a search for GA Briggs, a handy book might show up.

I'll be interested to see what you do with them.

regards,
Geoff.
 
Hi Geoff,

See e-mails:

Dear Victorio

Thank you for your enquiry.

Unfortunately, our archives contain no information on this product as a fire in our warehouse a number of years ago destroyed a lot of documentation and spares relating to older products.

Sorry we cannot be of assistance on this occasion.

Kind Regards

Carol Ramsay


IAG UK, Service Centre, Unit 4, St. Margaret's Way, Stukeley Meadows Industrial Estate, Huntingdon, Cambs, PE29 6EB

Tel: +44(0)1480 452561
Local Call Rate: 0845 4581122
Fax: +44(0)1480 413403

----- Original Message -----
From: Victório Benatti
To: Carol Ramsay
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 11:08 PM
Subject: Re: Wharfedale Full Range Loudspeakers and Wharfedale Tweeters

Dear Carol,

Please send me a complete technical specifications for Wharfedale Super 12/RS/DD - 10~15 ohms - 17000 lines, and Wharfedale Super 3 Tweeter 10~15 ohms - 14500 lines.

Kind Regards,

Victório Benatti
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Geoff,

I have boxes with 3 1/2 cu ft, without duct, with Super 12/RS/DD and horn supertweeter, powered for pure triodes.
I have a mono subwoofer Dahlquist DQ-1w, power for him (Conrad-Johnson MV-75A c/150 wrms mono), and electronic two way crossover.

My english is terrible. Escuse me.

Regards,

Victório Benatti
 
Hi Victorio, Don't worry about your English, it's better than any of my other languages.

If you ever get tired of the super 3s I can provide a home.

The 12s shouldn't need a sub. The Wharfedale 2.6 cub ft cab was tuned with a 12"x 3/4" slot. Sealed is too tight. You could also try AP. Start with 16 5/8" holes stuffed with fibrefill, and fiberfill behind. My Super 10s work a treat in small APs, but they're not standard.

It was a shame about the fire. Castle started out on the Super 8 RSDD,
but was never accepted (in Australia at least)

Regards,
Geoff.
 
Hi Geoff,

I like bass and subass for hi-impact musics. Ex. CD Beachcomber/Frederick Fennell - RR-62CD.

Regards,

Victório Benatti

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Hi sreten,

Have you the same informations of super 8 RS/DD, for super 12 and super 10 ?

Regards,

Victório Benatti
 
Dear Friends,

My system with Wharfedale Super 12/RS/DD:

WharfedaleFull-Ranger-May2007_002.jpg


Regards,

Victório Benatti
 
It has been a long time I was wondering about loudspeakers change. At least 2 years so far. It was a 12 years direct relationship with my B&W Matrix-804, so finally the time for a change has come.

After the first contact with horn-type full-range Lowther speakers, I soon realized that this was the way I should follow. That's another kind of sound. It's light, free, fluid, harmonic-rich and with an never heard attack. The drawbacks of the Lowthers are that they are expensive, hard to order and need an special cabinet to accomplish the horn port, that is responsible to the low-frequency response. The horn port building is too complex and if doesn't follow the original project in a strict way, the results are not good.

Full-range speakers don't need a crossover. This device is the major responsible to the sound compression. Without a passive crossover, the sound flows clean and clear. The speaker cables leaves the power amplifier and are directly attached to the speaker bornes. There are no devices between the amplifier and the speaker it self.

Using a crossover, the musicians seems to be "lazy", while without it they seems to be awaken, with a hard wish to play music.

I have had also the expierence with horn speakers at David's house (on 14 April 2007), at the 1 year birthday of Audioquorum comunity party. I loved it. They sounded very similar to the Lowthers.
It was used a horn speaker for the highs and another for the mid-range frequencies. The low-freqs were handled by the woofers and subwoofers we are used to (all with very good quality, of course). The system sounded perferctly, totally integrated and balanced.

Just after that event, I had the oportunity to get in contact with fullrange speakers made decades ago by the famous JBL and Wharfedale manufacturers. I've listened to a JBL 8", Wharfedale 10" and 12".
These speakers don't have the Lowther's high-freq extreme. That's the reason I decided to attach a supertweeter with same sensitivity. The results were fantastic. Very similar to the Lowthers.

A good oportunity to buy a 12" Wharfedale and a pair of superteeters came to me and I couldn't reject it. I made it. I've listened these speakers attached to a temporary cabinet and I loved it. I bring them all to my house and I ordered a proper cabinet for them. While the new structure was being built, I sold by B&W speakers.

I've choosen building a simple sealed wood cabinet with enough internal volume, this way the low-freqs would be handled exclusively by the speakers it-self. If perhaps I've used bass-reflex system I would have an adittional problem to get the lows, it's the flared port definition. An unfair task that depends of lots of expierements and technical knowledge.
This issue I consider like the same problem to get a perfect living among a husband (cabinet), his wife (speaker) and his lover (flared port). The husband (cabinet) to live in harmony (bass) with his wife (speaker) and his lover (flared port) is not that easy! If the husband gets rid of his lover, the harmony (bass) between them is pretty much easier. Did you like my comparison?

It doesn't matter the type of the cabinet, sealed or not, they are easier to do than the horn types. The large diameter full-range speakers produce more low-frequencies than the Lowthers so the responsibility to get high-quality bass would be in charge of the perfect speakers-subwoofer integration. The lows are much easier to adjust in this case.

When using 12" speakers, the front baffle width would have to be 350 mm minimum wide. The height, 1 meter and the speaker center located as high as possible, on a position that matches the distance of our ears in relation to the floor (when seated at the sweet spot, of course). This ear-floor distance is equal to the average between the full-range speaker distance and the supertweeter distance in relation to the floor. The front baffle width choosen was 400 mm. The rear baffle width chossen was 350 mm. This way the cabinet looks like a trapezoid. This format makes the internal reflection control easier. The interior of them was totally coated with 3cm acrilyc acoustic foam. The wood used was MDF 20 mm of thickness. The total volume is around 140 liters (4,9 cubic feet).

The results was fantastic. Even in low volumes, it's possible to hear everything that is recorded width an unbelievable clarity in all the frequencies.

That's another world.

Recently I met one person that owns this system for years and still has one extra pair of the same speakers as replacement. I told him I was interested. He told me that they were not on sale because in case of one of the speaker damage he would have already a replacement. Isn't that guy smart?

Best wishes to all audiophiles.

Victório Benatti
 
If I use a pair of Wharfedale Super 12 widebands with a pair of Super 3 tweeters won’t I need a crossover?

I currently own a pair of semi-omni Schallwand Tudusans’

http://www.schallwand-audio.de/2.html

These speakers are very light (3,5kg) open bottom boxes made of plywood and sport small 5’’ Schallwand made wideband drivers.
Even though I like the fast, dynamic and rich sound of the crossover-less design I can’t seem to get used to the weird soundstage and so I decided to try and build myself a pair of open baffles…

I am targeting Altec, Goodmans and Wharfedale drivers although the first two seem to be a bit out of my budget.
 
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