yeh...i understand....
but it's ok....since as yuo can see on the table i posted just few posts above an attenuation of 41db or higher is actually a real low listening value....and i can even think of leaving an empty spot on the first 3 positions.
i can start from 1.4ohm on.
S102 as PRP as many other resistor's manunfacter make value starting from 1ohm on.
In awhile i will try to contact PRP and see if they directly sell the audio serie in small quantity.
For the lower value like 0.22 0.33 0.85 i can try to do my own.....like conrad did....i don't know.....
but it's ok....since as yuo can see on the table i posted just few posts above an attenuation of 41db or higher is actually a real low listening value....and i can even think of leaving an empty spot on the first 3 positions.
i can start from 1.4ohm on.
S102 as PRP as many other resistor's manunfacter make value starting from 1ohm on.
In awhile i will try to contact PRP and see if they directly sell the audio serie in small quantity.
For the lower value like 0.22 0.33 0.85 i can try to do my own.....like conrad did....i don't know.....
what? use the vishay naked?
wiiishh i could use eeevveerryyywhere these resistors also on the most useless parts....but unfortunately....they cost and perform tooo much!!
well if anybody gets an idea on low valuhe resitors and where to get them...i would appreciate it.
i'll try to contact the PRP parts in a couple of hours...
wiiishh i could use eeevveerryyywhere these resistors also on the most useless parts....but unfortunately....they cost and perform tooo much!!
well if anybody gets an idea on low valuhe resitors and where to get them...i would appreciate it.
i'll try to contact the PRP parts in a couple of hours...
> Take Patrick's advice, He knows what he is talking about
I take that as a complement. Thank you.
Merry Christmas to you.
> what? use the vishay naked?
No. Parallel some 1ohms & 2 ohms normal metal film.
Or get the stuff from RS below 1R and get your system to work first.
Relax and listen to the music.
And when you are so happy with the system that you want the final 0.5%, then choose 4 or 5 attenuator levels that you use most and get whatever fancy resistors you can afford to replace those only.
Who knows, maybe in a year's time you might want to build something else that uses a 10k or even 100k attenuator. Have a look at the lightspeed thread, e.g.
Merry Christmas also to you. It is a hobby to enjoy.
Patrick
I take that as a complement. Thank you.
Merry Christmas to you.
> what? use the vishay naked?
No. Parallel some 1ohms & 2 ohms normal metal film.
Or get the stuff from RS below 1R and get your system to work first.
Relax and listen to the music.
And when you are so happy with the system that you want the final 0.5%, then choose 4 or 5 attenuator levels that you use most and get whatever fancy resistors you can afford to replace those only.
Who knows, maybe in a year's time you might want to build something else that uses a 10k or even 100k attenuator. Have a look at the lightspeed thread, e.g.
Merry Christmas also to you. It is a hobby to enjoy.
Patrick
I meant EUVL's words between post 12 and 14.
A bloke like P-D seems to prefer stepped switch volume attenuators with all Vishay and Cadd
ock hardware.
I've tried a 2 x 24-step ELNA attenuator with all-S102 R's close to 2 decades ago, (cost $550 at current $/€),not worth it im-silly-git-o.
Merry X-mas to you too, treasure the moments with family, Patrick.
A bloke like P-D seems to prefer stepped switch volume attenuators with all Vishay and Cadd
ock hardware.I've tried a 2 x 24-step ELNA attenuator with all-S102 R's close to 2 decades ago, (cost $550 at current $/€),not worth it im-silly-git-o.
Merry X-mas to you too, treasure the moments with family, Patrick.
jacco vermeulen said:I meant EUVL's words between post 12 and 14.
A bloke like P-D seems to prefer stepped switch volume attenuators with all Vishay and Cadd
I've tried a 2 x 24-step ELNA attenuator with all-S102 R's close to 2 decades ago, (cost $350 at current $/€),not worth it im-silly-gitt-o.
haven't understood...sorry....
you tried elma 24positions switch with naked cishay s102 by texas and caddock on but you didn't like it? so what would you suggest?
Still stepped attenuator....with normal grade resistors?...or what?
as far as i have read on internet....regular s102 are already excellent....but texas naked vishay are a little bit better.
So i think that if you didn't like your stepped attenuator with regular S102...i don't know if it would make that big difference using naked Vishay.....just my two cents.
what do you mean copycat comercialguy solutions?
You mean that the solution employeed on the commercial product usually sound good? and we should use that inste<ad of trying something different?
that is what you mean?
So i think that if you didn't like your stepped attenuator with regular S102...i don't know if it would make that big difference using naked Vishay.....just my two cents.
what do you mean copycat comercialguy solutions?
You mean that the solution employeed on the commercial product usually sound good? and we should use that inste<ad of trying something different?
that is what you mean?
sorry guys....i'm sure you guys are much more experienced than i'm ...and therefore i would like to ask you adveice on what capacitor to use for power supply.
Which brand do you guys think sound better?
I was actually looking at the different brands carried from newark.
They have panasonc, vishay bc, united chemicon and others.
I am talking about a wide value capacitor, something like 10000uf or 22000uf or higher.
Which one do you guys think is more reliable and better sounding?
They have lots of capacitors...but most of them are srew terminals.
I would like to have all hooked and soldered....it gives me more the idea of order.
Therefore i would be more appealed from a snap in type capacitor.
Can i use a screw terminal on a PCB and safely connct it to it without having to use an external wire and the little tip?
Would it be safe to dill a hole as wide as the base of the screw and then screw the capacitor on the pad?
i am a little doubtfull... i actually think that a solder joint would actually be more stable...anyways...
Which brand do you guys think sound better?
I was actually looking at the different brands carried from newark.
They have panasonc, vishay bc, united chemicon and others.
I am talking about a wide value capacitor, something like 10000uf or 22000uf or higher.
Which one do you guys think is more reliable and better sounding?
They have lots of capacitors...but most of them are srew terminals.
I would like to have all hooked and soldered....it gives me more the idea of order.
Therefore i would be more appealed from a snap in type capacitor.
Can i use a screw terminal on a PCB and safely connct it to it without having to use an external wire and the little tip?
Would it be safe to dill a hole as wide as the base of the screw and then screw the capacitor on the pad?
i am a little doubtfull... i actually think that a solder joint would actually be more stable...anyways...
No,it means that the choice depends on the purpose.
A Tokyo Ko-on Denpa attenuator on an esoteric preamp such as the one by CTC is a fine choice.
No good for a fully RC-operated exotic which i'm assembling, so i have no problems with using relay switched volume attenuation.
For a "small" Class A headphone-amp it's still ok by me to use a "plain" classic Alps rotary attenuator, goes with the total investment of the package.
Same samey with the choice of resistor brand.
If Peter-Daniel adores an extremely expensive Vishay/Caddock-filled stepped attenuator in combo with chip-amps, fine by me, but definitely not up my alley.
Whether 10 times the cost is worth it is something everyone should decide for themselves, to find out requires trying both alternatives.
I'm a cheap skate, probably have bad taste as well.
(cheap is not always best, i just bought myself a fully automatic espresso maker for Xmas, makes me feel like a kiddo for the last 2 days)
A Tokyo Ko-on Denpa attenuator on an esoteric preamp such as the one by CTC is a fine choice.
No good for a fully RC-operated exotic which i'm assembling, so i have no problems with using relay switched volume attenuation.
For a "small" Class A headphone-amp it's still ok by me to use a "plain" classic Alps rotary attenuator, goes with the total investment of the package.
Same samey with the choice of resistor brand.
If Peter-Daniel adores an extremely expensive Vishay/Caddock-filled stepped attenuator in combo with chip-amps, fine by me, but definitely not up my alley.
Whether 10 times the cost is worth it is something everyone should decide for themselves, to find out requires trying both alternatives.
I'm a cheap skate, probably have bad taste as well.
(cheap is not always best, i just bought myself a fully automatic espresso maker for Xmas, makes me feel like a kiddo for the last 2 days)
Understood the concept...cheap is not the beast....i do agree with you!
I'm actually building the preamplifier Aleph P1.7
I am planning on using Zen caps (i was planning on using Auricap but next step too expencive for me now).
i'm using naked vishay in certain points of the circuit and the rest is audio grade PRP resistors.
I'm planning on using plitron transformers dual mono construction.
Planning on using Elma switch (not the cheap electroswitch) on the output switch.
So as you can see i'm trying to do the thing as good as i can without going overboard.
That is why i was asking what capacitors would be the "best".
I don't kow...i don't think that a power supply capacitor may make as much difference as a film capacitor on the signal path....am i wrong?
I would like to build a large reservoir power supply (i would like to reach about 60000uF per channel).
A reasonable price/good performance capactiror....that is what i'm looking for.. any idea...as always....is welcome...
I'm actually building the preamplifier Aleph P1.7
I am planning on using Zen caps (i was planning on using Auricap but next step too expencive for me now).
i'm using naked vishay in certain points of the circuit and the rest is audio grade PRP resistors.
I'm planning on using plitron transformers dual mono construction.
Planning on using Elma switch (not the cheap electroswitch) on the output switch.
So as you can see i'm trying to do the thing as good as i can without going overboard.
That is why i was asking what capacitors would be the "best".
I don't kow...i don't think that a power supply capacitor may make as much difference as a film capacitor on the signal path....am i wrong?
I would like to build a large reservoir power supply (i would like to reach about 60000uF per channel).
A reasonable price/good performance capactiror....that is what i'm looking for.. any idea...as always....is welcome...
For capacitor and resistors (and other stuff) look here www.acoustica.org.uk Ignore the fact its mainly about modding Naim kit because most of the component recommendations (and some of the circuit mods) can be transfered to other kit.
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