I'm looking at building a very big sealed subwoofer to get deep, fast, clean sound at a good bang for the buck level.
Hoffman's iron law. All for bass extension. No limits on enclosure size. The enclosure can be as big as covering an entire wall of my apartment.
It can have multiple drivers.
The only limit is keeping it under $2000 including amps.
Should i go for
Edit: changed wording
Hoffman's iron law. All for bass extension. No limits on enclosure size. The enclosure can be as big as covering an entire wall of my apartment.
It can have multiple drivers.
The only limit is keeping it under $2000 including amps.
Should i go for
- 6-8 cheap drivers powered by lots of watts
- 4 non-cheap drivers with less total wattage requirement
Edit: changed wording
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If you can cover two walls consider Double bass array - Wikipedia
If you want something more practical Multiple Subwoofer after Geddes
If you want something more practical Multiple Subwoofer after Geddes
Hmm, just where is this apartment where such a system can actually be used to anywhere near its capability? 
Really depends on the drivers, but in general, it's much better to create a very efficient system to keep power handling of both the drivers and amps low, minimizing various types of distortions.
GM
Really depends on the drivers, but in general, it's much better to create a very efficient system to keep power handling of both the drivers and amps low, minimizing various types of distortions.
GM
Hmm, just where is this apartment where such a system can actually be used to anywhere near its capability?
Really depends on the drivers, but in general, it's much better to create a very efficient system to keep power handling of both the drivers and amps low, minimizing various types of distortions.
GM
Sure but you cannot have a "very efficiency system" and have it be a "subwoofer". Low bass means low efficiency with a closed box system.
I suggest that floatadventure consider a nearfield sub:
Build a closed box sub consisting of a single driver in a floor standing, downfiring configuration with the woofer at the top of the cabinet and located about where your head will be. You locate this sub directly behind you. No need for extreme output. You will have relatively high SPL, low distortion bass at your listening position with such a system due to the proximity to the source. With only one driver, and one amp channel, THAT is bang for the buck.
If it really can take up a whole wall then a huge horn sub firing into the corner (so the surrounding walls / ceiling / floor continue the expansion) could do well.
If said sub had multiple drivers then it could probably be eq'd below its cutoff to get very low too.
Edit: with so much 'real estate' for the subs there is also an option to do horn subs down to ~30Hz then build some sort of BP6 monstrosity to cover 10 to 30Hz (I've had a pair of labhorns with 3 x tempests in sealed boxes below 30Hz in my lounge and it worked well)
If said sub had multiple drivers then it could probably be eq'd below its cutoff to get very low too.
Edit: with so much 'real estate' for the subs there is also an option to do horn subs down to ~30Hz then build some sort of BP6 monstrosity to cover 10 to 30Hz (I've had a pair of labhorns with 3 x tempests in sealed boxes below 30Hz in my lounge and it worked well)
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I would always recommend at least 2 woofers with an equal number of drivers each loaded push-push.Push-push dramatically decreases box load and hence the ease of building the boxes (we used 15mm BB).
Bigger drivers tend to go lower but smaller drivers tend to have better “HF” response making them easier to cross-over.
I chose CSS SDX10 as a good compromise. I put them into 22 litres each but i was somewhat limited with box size. I got a 4 x 100w Sure Class D board for $60 USD and Daniel mated it with a modified computer PS, and a case we had on hand. One channel for each driver. The next set was adding room EQ but they disappeared while i was in hospital. I have 4 more SDX10 waiting for me to paying shipping.
dave
Bigger drivers tend to go lower but smaller drivers tend to have better “HF” response making them easier to cross-over.
I chose CSS SDX10 as a good compromise. I put them into 22 litres each but i was somewhat limited with box size. I got a 4 x 100w Sure Class D board for $60 USD and Daniel mated it with a modified computer PS, and a case we had on hand. One channel for each driver. The next set was adding room EQ but they disappeared while i was in hospital. I have 4 more SDX10 waiting for me to paying shipping.
dave
Hmm, just where is this apartment where such a system can actually be used to anywhere near its capability?
GM
I'm probably gonna use like half of its max SPL. Im pretty much only looking for a very clean, fast transient response and flat frequency response sound.
My idea so far is that a big sealed enclosure with enough drivers can achieve exactly this. Advice appreciated.
^^^...and that's why a nearfield sub can be superior to even multiple subs. You can locate the nearfield sub between two seats/chairs if your goal is to share the sweetspot with someone else.
This is an apartment after all. You are going to generate a whole lot of bass for your neighbors with your "wall sub" idea. OTOH, the nearfield sub need not play anywhere as loud in terms of total SPL produced because it will sound louder due to its proximity to the listener.
Put the numbers in and have fun:
Piston Excursion calculator
more cheap drivers gives more output per $ as long as they actually meet their specs. This is because you are getting an increase in efficiency by increasing the coupled cone surface area for co-located subs. I would recommend two drivers per box for force cancellation. With your budget I would aim for 12-16, 15" drivers and an inuke amp with DSP.
Piston Excursion calculator
more cheap drivers gives more output per $ as long as they actually meet their specs. This is because you are getting an increase in efficiency by increasing the coupled cone surface area for co-located subs. I would recommend two drivers per box for force cancellation. With your budget I would aim for 12-16, 15" drivers and an inuke amp with DSP.
How about a near field subwoofer? Close to zero room interaction so 'fast' bass, can play loud without bothering the neighbours, low distortion, small size etc. you name it.
Neighbor friendly dipole sub
Neighbor friendly dipole sub
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