I agree. In my view the electronic parts contribute more to transport quality than the mechanical part. That's why wadia transport with the same mechanism sound great.
comparing the design with the ps audio lambda, we can see why the teac is weaker.
The lambda is a dedicated transport with cdm9 pro mechanism, 3 separate transformers. CDM9 pro has brushless motor and glass lense, swing arm pick up...
analog_sa said:
comparing the design with the ps audio lambda, we can see why the teac is weaker.
The lambda is a dedicated transport with cdm9 pro mechanism, 3 separate transformers. CDM9 pro has brushless motor and glass lense, swing arm pick up...
quantran said:
Sorry to have to correct you here, but I have the Wadia WT2000S it was their best transport, it is the same (identical) as the Teac P-2S with the transformer moved to another case thats all, it still has the 2 pin $2 crystal that comes with the Teac P2S, essentialy the same machines with an additional a transformer box for the Wadia.
Both these machines need better XO clocks, but even in standard form are better than the Marantz or PS Audio, with good clocks instaled they would leave the other two for dead.
Cheers George
George
How much does those Wadia WT2000 and TEAC P2S cost? No question about their quality. The fact that they benefited from a low jitter clock proves the point that the electronic part is more important to sound quality than the mechanical part.
The PS Audio can be bought for about $500 or less. Bottom of this page show jitter measurement of the PS Audio in comparison with various other transports including CEC TL1:
http://www.stereophile.com/features/368/index4.html
An what I said was that it is better than the TEAC VRDS-10 unmodified.
For two pins crystals, if the oscillation circuit around it is good it can produce good sound e.g. the famous Kwak Clock.
Cheers
How much does those Wadia WT2000 and TEAC P2S cost? No question about their quality. The fact that they benefited from a low jitter clock proves the point that the electronic part is more important to sound quality than the mechanical part.
The PS Audio can be bought for about $500 or less. Bottom of this page show jitter measurement of the PS Audio in comparison with various other transports including CEC TL1:
http://www.stereophile.com/features/368/index4.html
An what I said was that it is better than the TEAC VRDS-10 unmodified.
For two pins crystals, if the oscillation circuit around it is good it can produce good sound e.g. the famous Kwak Clock.
Cheers
Hi guys,
My idea behind this thread was to gain some knowledge and get opinions about the VRDS-10. I am planning to buy one which is available in the used market. But it also looks like I have to upgrade the clock to get optimum performance out of this transport. Guys, as mentioned earlier, I am not into DIY so technical stuffs are not something I am versed with. so I would put forward a couple of straight questions which can help me in my quest:
1. If I have to upgrade the clock, which are the ones I should be looking at ? One of them being discussed here is the Tent XO clock. the other one I know of is the Trichord clock. If there are any other good ones to consider please suggest.
2. Are these clocks suitable for any CD player or are they meant for some particular make/model of CD players ?
3. How easy or difficult is it to fit these clocks inside the player ? By any chance do we have an external clock (where one doesnt have to open the CD player to fit it in) ? I need serious help in this regard. If it can be done only by a highly trained technician then I have to think twice before getting a clock. Here in India there are very few people who work on high end stuffs.
4. Finally which VFM clock I should buy for the VRDS-10 ?
I thought the VRDS in its stock form would be quite nice....
My idea behind this thread was to gain some knowledge and get opinions about the VRDS-10. I am planning to buy one which is available in the used market. But it also looks like I have to upgrade the clock to get optimum performance out of this transport. Guys, as mentioned earlier, I am not into DIY so technical stuffs are not something I am versed with. so I would put forward a couple of straight questions which can help me in my quest:
1. If I have to upgrade the clock, which are the ones I should be looking at ? One of them being discussed here is the Tent XO clock. the other one I know of is the Trichord clock. If there are any other good ones to consider please suggest.
2. Are these clocks suitable for any CD player or are they meant for some particular make/model of CD players ?
3. How easy or difficult is it to fit these clocks inside the player ? By any chance do we have an external clock (where one doesnt have to open the CD player to fit it in) ? I need serious help in this regard. If it can be done only by a highly trained technician then I have to think twice before getting a clock. Here in India there are very few people who work on high end stuffs.
4. Finally which VFM clock I should buy for the VRDS-10 ?
I thought the VRDS in its stock form would be quite nice....
Pani
I think the Tent XO may be the most VFM one if you can build a decent power supply and regulator for it. You may also power it with the existing power supply in the player but it will not maximize the performance of the XO. If you buy the power supply from Guido Tent, the whole thing get more pricy. Most audio clock running at 16.9344mhz can be fitted in the TEAC.
Installing the XO also require moderate DIY skill.
There are many clock on the market. Some exotic clocks cost about half the TEAC VRDS-10.
The VRDS-10 is probably slightly better than the Marantz CD-94 if both are not modified. But be warned that their sonic characters are very different.
If you are not into DIY, I think you may want to look at some dedicated transports.
Good luck
I think the Tent XO may be the most VFM one if you can build a decent power supply and regulator for it. You may also power it with the existing power supply in the player but it will not maximize the performance of the XO. If you buy the power supply from Guido Tent, the whole thing get more pricy. Most audio clock running at 16.9344mhz can be fitted in the TEAC.
Installing the XO also require moderate DIY skill.
There are many clock on the market. Some exotic clocks cost about half the TEAC VRDS-10.
The VRDS-10 is probably slightly better than the Marantz CD-94 if both are not modified. But be warned that their sonic characters are very different.
If you are not into DIY, I think you may want to look at some dedicated transports.
Good luck
Pani said:Hi guys,
My idea behind this thread was to gain some knowledge and get opinions about the VRDS-10. I am planning to buy one which is available in the used market. But it also looks like I have to upgrade the clock to get optimum performance out of this transport. Guys, as mentioned earlier, I am not into DIY so technical stuffs are not something I am versed with. so I would put forward a couple of straight questions which can help me in my quest:
1. If I have to upgrade the clock, which are the ones I should be looking at ? One of them being discussed here is the Tent XO clock. the other one I know of is the Trichord clock. If there are any other good ones to consider please suggest.
2. Are these clocks suitable for any CD player or are they meant for some particular make/model of CD players ?
3. How easy or difficult is it to fit these clocks inside the player ? By any chance do we have an external clock (where one doesnt have to open the CD player to fit it in) ? I need serious help in this regard. If it can be done only by a highly trained technician then I have to think twice before getting a clock. Here in India there are very few people who work on high end stuffs.
4. Finally which VFM clock I should buy for the VRDS-10 ?
I thought the VRDS in its stock form would be quite nice....
Finally I have it...
Hi guys,
Finally I have aquired a Teac VRDS-10. Tried it last night with a lot of apprehensions about the sound. I cannot bear anything dry and analytical but I also dont care about euphonic sweetness in the sound. My rest of the chain is very neutral hence this has to be right there walking the thin line between dry/analytical and warm/sweet.....AND IT DOES JUST THAT
. I couldnt be happier with the results...really . Full marks to the VRDS-10. Its amazingly musical, exceptionally detailed, very natural sounding, superb tonality and weight to the instruments, great soundstage and not at all fatiguing. It does everything I wanted. It doesnt add unnecessary sweetness but the sound is very true and involving.
Having said all that...its not 100% perfect.
There are some improvement areas which if improved will make this thing a cost no object product: Upper highs, say 7khz and above could have been more refined and airy. Currently its nice and very acceptable but its a little digital sounding (its little). You would know that only if you have heard more analog/refined highs else you wouldnt know it. But yes, if the upper highs are made more refined, airy and smoother it will make this transport sound like a top end analog source. I think that can be done by upgrading the clock which I will do later.
But thanks to you guys for sharing so much info and giving me confidence to buy this product. I will have another thread opened to discuss about the mods and spares required for this transport.
regards
Pani
Hi guys,
Finally I have aquired a Teac VRDS-10. Tried it last night with a lot of apprehensions about the sound. I cannot bear anything dry and analytical but I also dont care about euphonic sweetness in the sound. My rest of the chain is very neutral hence this has to be right there walking the thin line between dry/analytical and warm/sweet.....AND IT DOES JUST THAT
. I couldnt be happier with the results...really . Full marks to the VRDS-10. Its amazingly musical, exceptionally detailed, very natural sounding, superb tonality and weight to the instruments, great soundstage and not at all fatiguing. It does everything I wanted. It doesnt add unnecessary sweetness but the sound is very true and involving.Having said all that...its not 100% perfect.
There are some improvement areas which if improved will make this thing a cost no object product: Upper highs, say 7khz and above could have been more refined and airy. Currently its nice and very acceptable but its a little digital sounding (its little). You would know that only if you have heard more analog/refined highs else you wouldnt know it. But yes, if the upper highs are made more refined, airy and smoother it will make this transport sound like a top end analog source. I think that can be done by upgrading the clock which I will do later.
But thanks to you guys for sharing so much info and giving me confidence to buy this product. I will have another thread opened to discuss about the mods and spares required for this transport.
regards
Pani
Hi Pani
I've just modded my friends VRDS10 and its very very good.
I myself have a heavily modded philips CD960 (same as marantz 94) and it was annoyingly close in std form!
I have reclocked using an audioupgrades.co.uk C1.This feeds the original location (I forget the Sony chip no) and also directly feeds the SAA7350. I also use a /2 clock output to drive the pair of TDA1547 (DAC7) direct (not via all the other chips).
I've recapped the DAC board completely using Rubycon ZA's for decoupling (mainly 100uf but a few 220's) and used panasonic FC on pre reg as smoothers. I've also hooked in LME49720's to replace the std horrible opamps.
What a difference! this player something to be beheld! I'm pretty certain i'm only scratching the surface. No dedicated regs as yet (except the clock supply).
1 word of caution, the belts (2 of them) on the deck will wear and need replacing, but then what belts don't eventiually!
You can see the caps, clock feed to the TDA and the opapmps below!
I've just modded my friends VRDS10 and its very very good.
I myself have a heavily modded philips CD960 (same as marantz 94) and it was annoyingly close in std form!
I have reclocked using an audioupgrades.co.uk C1.This feeds the original location (I forget the Sony chip no) and also directly feeds the SAA7350. I also use a /2 clock output to drive the pair of TDA1547 (DAC7) direct (not via all the other chips).
I've recapped the DAC board completely using Rubycon ZA's for decoupling (mainly 100uf but a few 220's) and used panasonic FC on pre reg as smoothers. I've also hooked in LME49720's to replace the std horrible opamps.
What a difference! this player something to be beheld! I'm pretty certain i'm only scratching the surface. No dedicated regs as yet (except the clock supply).
1 word of caution, the belts (2 of them) on the deck will wear and need replacing, but then what belts don't eventiually!
You can see the caps, clock feed to the TDA and the opapmps below!
Attachments
Used anyhow, and the complete lower assembly from a player, probably quite dead... looking for NOS or else very low hours WORKING and complete player. But thanks for the link... got it to work from another location. No idea why it is blocked from my usual wifi location. Nothing else so far has been...
_-_-bear
_-_-bear
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