I'd like to see at least some kind of data (not just testimonials, which can be obtained for anything at all, really) that shows that the newer higher-technology parts actually do ANYTHING better than previous not-as-high-technology parts. All I see is that they are made of something rare or expensive, is there really more to any of them?
I learned from this positive feedback that you need a carbon decor outlet plate and at least one bottle of Ménage à Trois and one bottle of celebratory champagne, probably per ear. The seller may be so kind as to donate these when purchasing 2 upgrade sets. 2 beer kegs will do too. With a now flat wallet in the back pocket, you also sit more comfortably and are no longer unduly distracted from listening. After the first bottle it can happen that you miss a speaker if it is not getting a signal. Now it's time to empty the second one. If all coils resistances are changed liberally and the square meters big crossover sound diffusers with quartz crystals are placed in front of the speakers then differences will astonishingly apear.
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Expensive German speakers eh??....For comparison if you modify cars, you don't fit cheap aftermarket alloys/tyres/suspension to a BMW M3 or M5.....unless you are an idiot/chav/etc..
So the total cost of aftermarket cross-over components should be at least 10% of the speaker cost when new.
As they are German speakers using Mundorf caps, I presume all the other cross-over parts will also be Mundorf.
I would suggest measuring the physical component dimensions & the distances between the lead out holes through the board...as these are your limiting factors, unless you want to start drilling new holes!
What you want is caps that only act as caps, inductors that only act as inductors, & resistors that only act as resistors, so basically none, or very low "other traits". You also want tight tolerances, 1% or 3% value tolerance is good...
You are correct in saying you could spend £1,000 on each component....however the gains to be had tend to be inverse to the price cost the higher up the price tag you go!
Resistors:-
Mills resistors from their 1% tolerance range are very good...also NON-inductive, & NON-magnetic & the most expensive is still under £9 each!!
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/mills.html
Inductors:-
I would look at the wire thickness, & the resistance of what you have installed, & fit a thick wire version with a lower resistance as you can physically fit with the existing space on the board.
Jantzen do a HUGE range or air cored inductors with low resistance.
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/index.php/inductors/jantzen-air-core-wire-coils.html
It looks like the bass inductor on yours is iron cored, so you might have to fit a iron cored again or a "C" toroidal cored one to get the value you need in the physical space you have.
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/index.php/inductors/jantzen/c-coil.html
Capacitors:-
Plenty of good brands. I am biased & would recommend polypropylene ones by Claritycap brand, made here in the UK.
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/claritycap.html
To compare what caps you have already to other available types/brands, there is NO better webpage than this masterpiece:-
https://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
Just my 2pence worth!
Further to my post above....& yes I've realised I'm a few years out of date!!..but for other peoples info...
I've had a closer look at the components on your cross-over board.
The Mundorf Mcap -MKP, Caps, 400VDC 3% tolerance, These are the basic "entry level" polypropylene type caps on market...5.6uf sells for £6.20, the 6.8uf for £8.20 & 3.9uf £5.20
These can be bettered by many other caps (construction/brand) costing less than double the price....see the link in my previous post...
The green resistors look like the Mundorf M-resist 10W MOX type 2% tolerance....& sell for £2.20......Mills are better construction/type & with a 1% tolerance...