I did all the wrongs and it turned out good for me!
First off, I used non paperbacked oak. Then I used the water based Lepages contact cement(the no smell stuff) and then I sprayed a lacquer black spray paint.
It curled a bit, but my woodworking skills and determination prevailed!
Its(my sub) been a year and hasn't bubbled...plus I built another set of speakers and did exactly the same thing! Success there also.
I plan to do the same again in a couple of weeks but I am going to stain the veneer and then use tung oil.
Dean
First off, I used non paperbacked oak. Then I used the water based Lepages contact cement(the no smell stuff) and then I sprayed a lacquer black spray paint.
It curled a bit, but my woodworking skills and determination prevailed!
Its(my sub) been a year and hasn't bubbled...plus I built another set of speakers and did exactly the same thing! Success there also.
I plan to do the same again in a couple of weeks but I am going to stain the veneer and then use tung oil.
Dean
I have used contact cement , PVA iron on, and glue sheet in the past, all generally succesfully. Contact was easier to use if you are careful with the slip sheets and the fumes and it seems to be stable, I would like to find the spray type mentioned elsewhere.
But I also like the iron on method, but you have to be more careful with the heat setting, applying, lightly damping to prevent splitting, not to linger to long over one spot, etc. I have never tried Titebond so I got in contact with them and they were very helpful with info and advice.
If you want a comprehensive guide to the iron method, there are two articles in the " Fine Woodworking " magazine, by Mario Rodriguez and Micheal Button. There is also a book of the latters articles, in which they appear, I believe by Taunton Press
Roy
But I also like the iron on method, but you have to be more careful with the heat setting, applying, lightly damping to prevent splitting, not to linger to long over one spot, etc. I have never tried Titebond so I got in contact with them and they were very helpful with info and advice.
If you want a comprehensive guide to the iron method, there are two articles in the " Fine Woodworking " magazine, by Mario Rodriguez and Micheal Button. There is also a book of the latters articles, in which they appear, I believe by Taunton Press
Roy
I watched a video about the iron on method, by Mario. I was pretty sure I could do it until it bled thru. The veneer is very thin (1/42nd) and the burl is such that the grain contributes to the bleeding.
My test board came out great and rock solid. I flattened the veneer, then used the gel contact cement, and then lightly sanded the veneer (300 grit).
I then used a gel stain, which I love, and finished with a water-based Minwax semigloss acrylic.
If the speakers look anywhere near as good as the test board, I will be very happy.
I will post pix out the wazoo when I am done.
GnD
My test board came out great and rock solid. I flattened the veneer, then used the gel contact cement, and then lightly sanded the veneer (300 grit).
I then used a gel stain, which I love, and finished with a water-based Minwax semigloss acrylic.
If the speakers look anywhere near as good as the test board, I will be very happy.
I will post pix out the wazoo when I am done.
GnD
I made almost every diy speaker by one of these two technikes:
1. Simplest and almost perfect when done properily - contact cement put on veneer and MDF, very carefuly dried (not to much), and veneer glued on and pressed on every centimeter with hands or something round...
2. Little complicated to do well but works - wood glue mixed with water say 50%/50%, put on MDF, and veneer applied, then some PVC foil on it so wet glue wont stick trough venner, and finaly i put pvc stryofoam on it so it presses it uniformly, then some old furniture MDF, and then something wery heavy, car batteries or something. When it's dry it looks even better than the first one.
bye
Ivan from Croatia
P.S.sorry for bad english...
1. Simplest and almost perfect when done properily - contact cement put on veneer and MDF, very carefuly dried (not to much), and veneer glued on and pressed on every centimeter with hands or something round...
2. Little complicated to do well but works - wood glue mixed with water say 50%/50%, put on MDF, and veneer applied, then some PVC foil on it so wet glue wont stick trough venner, and finaly i put pvc stryofoam on it so it presses it uniformly, then some old furniture MDF, and then something wery heavy, car batteries or something. When it's dry it looks even better than the first one.
bye
Ivan from Croatia
P.S.sorry for bad english...
my experience...
well, this is my drop...
I'm building the 8th pair of speakers each one a little better and a little complex than former...
and at the 7th pair I did veneering using contact cement. I had used it before at 6th pair also, but than I did a tech mistake: Used maple over MDF.
An experienced woodworker told me maple as the most "moving" wood (humidity, temp...) and maybe the hard one also.
MDF is the least moving substrate so a year after I have LOT of bubbles and a LOT of cracks along the grain. I think contact cement not easier than yellow glue because the meticulous work to remove bubbles and pressing the venner over the substrate, rolling, scraching, pressing... ufff....
By now, I still studying what way to follow... but I did read a lot of good results using yellow glue, applied carefully, very evenly a very thin layer and a large than veneer heavy board and a lot of weight over it. I am thinking about a 35mm MDF board, 4 bags of sand (40 Kg each) and two days of time.
Oh,.. and I will use "Tauari" a white brazilian wood I found with wide veneer sheet ( 60cm).
cheers,
Hisatugo.
well, this is my drop...
I'm building the 8th pair of speakers each one a little better and a little complex than former...
and at the 7th pair I did veneering using contact cement. I had used it before at 6th pair also, but than I did a tech mistake: Used maple over MDF.
An experienced woodworker told me maple as the most "moving" wood (humidity, temp...) and maybe the hard one also.
MDF is the least moving substrate so a year after I have LOT of bubbles and a LOT of cracks along the grain. I think contact cement not easier than yellow glue because the meticulous work to remove bubbles and pressing the venner over the substrate, rolling, scraching, pressing... ufff....
By now, I still studying what way to follow... but I did read a lot of good results using yellow glue, applied carefully, very evenly a very thin layer and a large than veneer heavy board and a lot of weight over it. I am thinking about a 35mm MDF board, 4 bags of sand (40 Kg each) and two days of time.
Oh,.. and I will use "Tauari" a white brazilian wood I found with wide veneer sheet ( 60cm).
cheers,
Hisatugo.
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