This is too much fun! Now, I've moved all the traces to the bottom layer, and I re-sized the filter caps so that they match the specs of the ones I have looked at on digikey (Panasonic, Nichicons). I guess now I can more easily prototype using stripboard, since all traces are on one side. I swear that will be the last change for today. I'm off to the outside to hit some golf balls...Thanks, again, for all the help you guys.
Hi,
now it's my turn to ask a Q.
Where do you connect the DAC ground to?
Options seem to be G between V+ & V- or to AC2 or to a central ground.
If DAC goes to a central ground, where do you connect the PSU to central ground? from AC2 or from G?
Leave the pads for the two fuses. Link them out if there is no risk of overloading the PSU. Use fuses where you are running power to a more remote (riskier) location.
Similarly keep the CRC pads and link them out when not needed.
You could make alternative holes for the diodes, a bigger pitch and larger diameter to suit 1n540x as well as the present 1n400x.
now it's my turn to ask a Q.
Where do you connect the DAC ground to?
Options seem to be G between V+ & V- or to AC2 or to a central ground.
If DAC goes to a central ground, where do you connect the PSU to central ground? from AC2 or from G?
Leave the pads for the two fuses. Link them out if there is no risk of overloading the PSU. Use fuses where you are running power to a more remote (riskier) location.
Similarly keep the CRC pads and link them out when not needed.
You could make alternative holes for the diodes, a bigger pitch and larger diameter to suit 1n540x as well as the present 1n400x.
back from the range...
Good question. If I connect G to the DAC ground and then AC2 to the chassis, would that be o.k.? I suppose I could also just combine the PSU and DAC onto a single board, but I kind of like the idea of having a stand alone board, which could be used for other projects and such. It also makes trouble shooting the DAC a little easier, maybe.
Edit: Put the larger diodes in, but also put the option to have smaller N400X.
Good question. If I connect G to the DAC ground and then AC2 to the chassis, would that be o.k.? I suppose I could also just combine the PSU and DAC onto a single board, but I kind of like the idea of having a stand alone board, which could be used for other projects and such. It also makes trouble shooting the DAC a little easier, maybe.
Edit: Put the larger diodes in, but also put the option to have smaller N400X.
Hi,
yes, multi-purpose board is what I had in mind.
A slight re-arrangement of your routing and you have achieved a single sided PCB which will be much easier to make at home.
I hope someone else comes in to satisfy my curiosity on whether star earthing is needed here, where the ground references are taken from and to.
yes, multi-purpose board is what I had in mind.
A slight re-arrangement of your routing and you have achieved a single sided PCB which will be much easier to make at home.
I hope someone else comes in to satisfy my curiosity on whether star earthing is needed here, where the ground references are taken from and to.
Hi,
the question is whether the PSU could/should be used as an all purpose star ground or the star located off the PSU board.
Secondly which end of the PSU would be better for a ground. I think the transformer tapping before it travels to the PSU board would be better than taking the audio ground from the PCB. But I really am asking not stating.
As for connection to case!
Keep the mains connected case connected to the mains. i.e. apply a safety earth.
Do not connect the audio ground to the mains.
the question is whether the PSU could/should be used as an all purpose star ground or the star located off the PSU board.
Secondly which end of the PSU would be better for a ground. I think the transformer tapping before it travels to the PSU board would be better than taking the audio ground from the PCB. But I really am asking not stating.
As for connection to case!
Keep the mains connected case connected to the mains. i.e. apply a safety earth.
Do not connect the audio ground to the mains.
So, I only have the N400X diodes, and don't have any 2W resistors. I'm making a digikey order and have added the following to my cart:
1N5401GDICT-ND DIODE GPP 100V 3A DO-201AD ($0.37/10)
WNC10RFECT-ND RES NON-IND WW 10 OHM 2W AXIAL ($0.79/25)
Do these seem like good choices? Also, what about fuses?
1N5401GDICT-ND DIODE GPP 100V 3A DO-201AD ($0.37/10)
WNC10RFECT-ND RES NON-IND WW 10 OHM 2W AXIAL ($0.79/25)
Do these seem like good choices? Also, what about fuses?
Hi,
if you are beginning to get the DIY bug then go buy 100 of each of 1n4004 or 5 and 1n5404 or 5. The discount when buying by the hundred often exceeds 50% and your stock will last for years.
The PIV required for a bridge rectifier is about three times the Vac of the transformer. I suggest you think about the maximum voltage you will require and stock all of the same voltage value.
A 60Vac transformer will need 200V and anything higher (upto 120Vac) will need 400V. Only tube (valve) will need any of the 600V or 800V diodes. There is a slight downside to choosing excessively high voltage diodes, more capacitance, so don't go overboard for just more factor of safety.
2W is about three times 600mW. A standard metal film paralleled three times will give you the power dissipation and be cheaper. The PCB can easily be altered to accomodate three smaller resistors of more accuracy, better temperature stability, and cheaper. Again buying by the hundred is advised.
if you are beginning to get the DIY bug then go buy 100 of each of 1n4004 or 5 and 1n5404 or 5. The discount when buying by the hundred often exceeds 50% and your stock will last for years.
The PIV required for a bridge rectifier is about three times the Vac of the transformer. I suggest you think about the maximum voltage you will require and stock all of the same voltage value.
A 60Vac transformer will need 200V and anything higher (upto 120Vac) will need 400V. Only tube (valve) will need any of the 600V or 800V diodes. There is a slight downside to choosing excessively high voltage diodes, more capacitance, so don't go overboard for just more factor of safety.
2W is about three times 600mW. A standard metal film paralleled three times will give you the power dissipation and be cheaper. The PCB can easily be altered to accomodate three smaller resistors of more accuracy, better temperature stability, and cheaper. Again buying by the hundred is advised.
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