Useful tools and techniques

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Devil_H@ck said:
Well, I just ran into a little problem using power tools.
I've got a big plexi sheet of 2.5mm thickness.
I need to cut 6 small sections out of it for a plexi box I want to make for a headphone amplifier.

Not the problem is that one of the parts is 56mm x 24mm. The tool I'm using is a gigantic saw which is about 4m by 4m. This thing is just crazy.

When I just the plexi and I'm at the end of the cut, the plexi jumps away and falls into the side next to the large cutting blade ending up inside the saw. Altough that isn't that much of a problem (I can get it out), the plexi has of course got a lot of scratches on it.

Any techniques on how to solve this ;)?


Attatch the plate to another bigger plate with double sided tape....then you can pull the sawns off piece out of the saw backwards :)

Magura
 
Hm, ok. Well, the saw table I'm using is not mine, it's from a friend's dad who build his own house. He's got a huge amount of stuff.

This friend of me is going to build a plexi PC case this Sunday and he'll put an alluminium blade on the saw then (there was a wood blade with few theet on it now). That should work better, if it still doesn't work, I'll ask him to try the router. (Actually, he seems to be quite afraid of it, since his dad lost half a finger to that thing.)
 
Loose peices of material hurlled by a large table saw can possible impail a inexperienced user. And in the maylay to follow, possiblely sever useful appendages If you moderators nut up about someone home winding a transformer because of "safety" issues, shurely you can see a missing digit or other hospital trip over this.
Devil, please have someone experieced in the use of such equipment (hopefully not the gentelman who has already lost flesh to the beast) show you how to safely use it. DIY audio is much easyer with all appendages.
 
Brian Donaldson said:
If you moderators nut up about someone home winding a transformer because of "safety" issues, shurely you can see a missing digit or other hospital trip over this.

It wasn't me;)

As usually caution and proper judgement is always recommended, but let's not get paranoid about using power tools. This was only an advice based on my personal experience, what the other person will do is his choice. I will not say: if you are not experienced, don't even try switching the button on this machinery. There is always beginning to everything and this IS diy forum.

And for your interest, I never wear seat belts when driving a car. Wonder, if I'll get sinbinned for saying that ;)
 
I only put my seatbelt on when I see a traffic enforcement officer looking for that sort of thing.


But you wouldn't pull over on the side of the freeway and tell a 15 year old to drive from here in rush hour traffic wihtout any other prior instruction.

That's my point. If there is enough blade clearance that the piece being cut is falling into the saw, I fear that our new friend has no idea how to use a table saw. Of all the carpenters I have known with missing fingers, 3/4 ths of them lost em on a table saw. Such equipment isn't to be feared and never used, but a little instruction is needed to avoid a bloody mess.
 
Peter Daniel said:
What prevents you from holding both pieces with your hands.
The removal of the safety cap above the blade and the fact that the piece of plastic is only 24 mm wide ;). It would be kind of scary and dangerous with that huge blade only 5mm or something away from your fingers. I'll ask my friend to try the MDF & wooden block piece thing.


Brian Donaldson said:
Loose peices of material hurlled by a large table saw can possible impail a inexperienced user. And in the maylay to follow, possiblely sever useful appendages
Don't worry, after the first cut, I let my friend to the rest, he does these kinds of things all the time, both at school and at home, so I'm quite sure he won't do anything stupid (well, I hope for his own sake he doesn't).
 
I picked up the TV by roadside and mounted the drill press on it.

I have also mounted the 10 inch mitre saw on a surplus kitchen cabinet door so that it can be moved and used anywhere easily including flush resting on top of the TV.

OLD strong TV can be used as work table bench.

Chris
 

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chris ma said:
This was how I prepared the first of the 12 heatsinks, marked and centre punched TO-3 holes, use wood blocks to make a jag.
Line up the first hole with the drill bit then clamp down the jag securely, drill this hole for all 12 heatsinks first, then proceed to line up the second hole and repeat drilling, but if the hole is not line up properly or the jag moved then all 12 heatsinks would be spoiled. Any better suggestions for future projects?

long thread...

Here's my tip for drilling TO-3 holes. I have some TO-3 sockets which have a plastic top. The kind that Dr Leach recommends for his amp.
You can pop off the plastic part and use it as a template for the smaller holes once the bigger ones are in place. It has a lip on the bigger holes that allows it to sit in place and provide you with the exact spacing for the smaller ones.
 
I have a small hint for anyone who is cutting or drilling plexiglass or other hard plastic materials.

Dish washing liquid makes excellent cutting oil :D
I used it to cut a 4" diameter hole in a peice of 1/4 inch plexi with a fly-cutter in my drill press and it worked great!

I picked it up from the Taig minilathe mailing list.
 
Broken tap remover

"How do YOU remove taps that break off in a heat sink??"


This is the way to get those remnants out without damaging the hole.

The fingers reach down into the flutes, the collar is settles down to the top of the hole (prevents spreading), and the tap is turned out.

Can you imagine the force necessary before you would need the 25mm remover?

HTH

E
 

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