Peter Daniel said:
How long did it take you?
It takes about 10 secs to align the drilled hole to the tap (and clamp it). Sometimes, it goes through in first shot - another 10-15 secs. Sometimes, I have to back it up and retry - adds 20-30 secs to the original 10 secs (always goes through in second try).
But, time is not really the issue for me - it always produces perfect threads - no broken bits, and no destroyed threads. And I need to tap a total of 14 threads for Zen4 - this is a good method to do that even if it takes 2 mins per hole (all done in half hour), especially considering that a lot of people seem to be having a tough time tapping. Actually, I tapped a total of 12 6-32 holes in about 5-10 minutes (and all of them perfect
).
Al shavings
When cleaning those shavings do not do what I did, I used to clean them with a vacumn cleaner, they clogged up the hose really really bad, I was lucky that it was my shopvac rather than my central vac system, otherwise it would have been a real plain try to locate where in the pipes that they clogged up. Imagine it could have been inside walls or between floors.
When cleaning those shavings do not do what I did, I used to clean them with a vacumn cleaner, they clogged up the hose really really bad, I was lucky that it was my shopvac rather than my central vac system, otherwise it would have been a real plain try to locate where in the pipes that they clogged up. Imagine it could have been inside walls or between floors.
Wauw!
THis is a great thread! I'm almost ashamed I didn't find it earlier 
This is a goldmine on DIY info
I have two questions, relating to the picture below. The goal is to have text on the aluminium (photolithic process), glue the perpex plate over it, and have blue leds shine through the perspex on the aluminium. The V-shaped groove should remain matte, and light up in the blue glow.
- How do I glue the perspex to the aluminium in an "invisible way"?
- How do I make the v-shaped groove without a milling machine?
Thanx for all help.
Bouke
THis is a great thread!
I'm almost ashamed I didn't find it earlier This is a goldmine on DIY info I have two questions, relating to the picture below. The goal is to have text on the aluminium (photolithic process), glue the perpex plate over it, and have blue leds shine through the perspex on the aluminium. The V-shaped groove should remain matte, and light up in the blue glow.
- How do I glue the perspex to the aluminium in an "invisible way"?
- How do I make the v-shaped groove without a milling machine?
Thanx for all help.
Bouke
Attachments
One way to make a V shape groove is to use a table saw with a blade for plastic. You just have to tilt the blade 45 deg and adjust the height. I imagine you woud still have to polish it, to have it matched with the rest.
On visible part I wouldnt use glue, because it will always show and with time might change properties as well.
Just a thought, if you plan to use pots knobs there, you could use the nuts on the pots to hold everything together.
On visible part I wouldnt use glue, because it will always show and with time might change properties as well.
Just a thought, if you plan to use pots knobs there, you could use the nuts on the pots to hold everything together.
Bouke,
2 options to glue the plexiglas (i guess that's perspex)
1)
use 1,1,1 trichlorehtane to dissolve the plexiglas on the surface and one can expect supersmooth glue joint without any bubbles or air cavities.
I tired it out with plexi2plexi joints and plexi2metal, works fine. Just .... the stuff is deadly poisonous, you normally don't get it without a master degree in chemistry and a company letter head.
2)
Röhm sells some plexiglas glues under the Acrifix brand which meant to harden/settle from the ultraviolet component in our daylight; those glues also make fine glue joints. If you glue the plexi on brushed alu, should be fine.
I used to use AcriFix 92.
V-groove: i agree with Peter. Leave the goove unpolished, you want the blue light get scattered on the groove's surface; the rest of the blue light is caught within the plexi by total reflection if you couple the light into the edges of the plexi frontplate.
2 options to glue the plexiglas (i guess that's perspex)
1)
use 1,1,1 trichlorehtane to dissolve the plexiglas on the surface and one can expect supersmooth glue joint without any bubbles or air cavities.
I tired it out with plexi2plexi joints and plexi2metal, works fine. Just .... the stuff is deadly poisonous, you normally don't get it without a master degree in chemistry and a company letter head.
2)
Röhm sells some plexiglas glues under the Acrifix brand which meant to harden/settle from the ultraviolet component in our daylight; those glues also make fine glue joints. If you glue the plexi on brushed alu, should be fine.
I used to use AcriFix 92.
V-groove: i agree with Peter. Leave the goove unpolished, you want the blue light get scattered on the groove's surface; the rest of the blue light is caught within the plexi by total reflection if you couple the light into the edges of the plexi frontplate.
Can do.
At present I am thinking to think up a noise free electric lawn mower since my neighbour next door likes me but hates my very noisy two stroke mower.
Few years ago we had an elderly man who persisted in cutting his grass at 6 am regularly every Sunday morning just when the guys next door were sleeping after hard party time.
One of them shot him. His defence was he tried to hit the lawn mower and missed.
At present I am thinking to think up a noise free electric lawn mower since my neighbour next door likes me but hates my very noisy two stroke mower.
Few years ago we had an elderly man who persisted in cutting his grass at 6 am regularly every Sunday morning just when the guys next door were sleeping after hard party time.
One of them shot him. His defence was he tried to hit the lawn mower and missed.
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