Used Full Range drivers, second life..

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planet10 said:
I'd just excise the cap completely. You do need to fill the resulting hole with some sort of phase plugs to finish the job thou.

dave

Yeah, I was gonna have to get some from you. I've cut plenty o' large dust caps, just nuttin' this small. I know to watch for wires and go slow. I have a pair of 4 x 6 Sonics that have a nice accordian surround and paper cone (gray felt dust cover). I gotta try those out too.
 
planet10 said:
I'd just excise the cap completely. You do need to fill the resulting hole with some sort of phase plugs to finish the job thou.

dave


One cap has been removed. It went pretty well with a new razor blade. I see how people could get scared about the removal. Is one thin coat of Mod okay? I didn't know how much to dilute, so I applied a very thin coat at full strength. Guess I need to order a set of plugs, right?
 
Dr. Bob, LOL! You're killin' me Geoff! I have an exacto, but I can't get the control with it that I get with a safety edged razor blade. Lord knows all the windows I've scraped paint from have made me love a sharp blade. I still have a pair of homemade Z-hornets that ToddM gave me (along with a pair of 1197s....thanks Todd!) so I have an instant test bed for the 103a pair. Those plugs should round it out.

I just Dammar'd (is that a real word?) a pair of 3 inch full range computer speaks. I cut the caps off deftly without injury, actually kinda fun! Homemade phase plugs of I made out of wood or metal sockets will have to do in them whilst I "learn the craft".
 
Hi Dr Bob,

Making the phasing plugs should be interesting. Really quite simple. Think of it as an inside out horn. Work out the flare rate of the cone, then the flare rate of the horn. The difference between the two should be the shape of the plug. Gets interesting if you have a curvilinier cone.
Or, the result passes through zero. My theory could be hogs wash.

Or you could just have a guess and try it. Have fun with it.

Geoff.
 
I started to "tune" a 10" woofer to aperiodic today. This was used as a "sub" for a while. I couldn't stand the upper bass/lower mid, so I ripped it out of the box, and gently lowered the 43 year old Wharfedale Super 10 RSDD into it's hole and secured it.

Stuffed a sock and foam into the port, and dragged the other one out of the workshop for another sock and foam trick.

These definitely are better in AP enclosures rather than ducted port.
Compared to the corner cabinets: Baffle step, (no room against a wall) Too shrill on axis, need to be 60 degrees off. Need some sort of diffraction device. Down 10dB :bawling: but still about 96dB/w.:)
They don't seem to project the vocals as well. Treating those poor faded cones may help there. The bass is a bit stronger, but not as smooth. More port tuning.

Geoff.
 

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Can't wait for the plugs! They'll probably get tied up at the border as "suspicious articles". HA Here's a pic of one little driver with some duct seal applied. I found a brick of the stuff at the Ace Hardware. Cheap, cheap.... Wool felt? Maybe the fabric store for that.
 

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Here's a little cheapie pair. 8 ohm, 10 W. Accordian pleat with alnico in the back Came mounted in a closed box, no padding, no tweeter. Measures 6 1/2" OD on the stamped frame. Labelled R-S6964, Japan. Dust cap has a distinct chatoyancy.
 

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