Pjotr said:
Hey not so fast fmak,
First look a bit closer at the thing please, it uses an external fanless PSU. And if the small internal fan still makes too much noise we are here at diyaudio to mod it and add something like an external heatsink and/or plumbing some heatpipes in it.
But if u want to build you own bare bone, go ahead. Curious with what you will come up.
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I have, and even a C3 1GHz is too hot w/o a fan. In a small space a large heat sink doesn't fit in and a heat pipe just takes heat to soomeelse for a fan! That is why the Hush PCs have such large heat sink.
I specialise in heat transfer/fluid flow and the way PCs are engineered is plain daft when it comes to heat dissipation.
My next project will also be a fanless PC.
Im going to use big convectional heatsinks on the outside of the case.
Transfer the heat from the CPU/GPU/PSU/etc using water cooling.
Ive modded plenty of water pumps before and its quite easy to get them running silent (quieter than a hard drive).
I also make up my own copper water blocks and piping, so i can cool anything that needs to be.
Should make for an interesting project.
Im going to use big convectional heatsinks on the outside of the case.
Transfer the heat from the CPU/GPU/PSU/etc using water cooling.
Ive modded plenty of water pumps before and its quite easy to get them running silent (quieter than a hard drive).
I also make up my own copper water blocks and piping, so i can cool anything that needs to be.
Should make for an interesting project.
Exactly, I haven't really figured out how to control it since a ttl low signal is used indicate that the power should be turned on. Suggestions anyone?
It could be left out without any other problem than that the comp has to turned on/off manually.
I've seen that in a magazine and it looks like a good idea. They made an aluminium block which they attached to the processor to raise the heatsink which stood out through the back. For the HDD they used two U-profiles for the sides and two plates (with heat transfer paste) for top/bottom and attached bitumen and foam to dampen resonances. In the PSU the hot-temperature components were lifted out and attached to heatsinks.
Anders
Hi,
You can start with a ready made fanless PSU. For safety reasons it is not wise to fiddle with the internals of a standard PSU! It is infact very dangarous! Although fanless PSU’s are not cheap, you gain not much money by doing so.
http://www.silentmaxx.de/nt_prosilence_fanless.php
Cheers
You can start with a ready made fanless PSU. For safety reasons it is not wise to fiddle with the internals of a standard PSU! It is infact very dangarous! Although fanless PSU’s are not cheap, you gain not much money by doing so.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://www.silentmaxx.de/nt_prosilence_fanless.php
Cheers
Pjotr said:Hi,
You can start with a ready made fanless PSU. For safety reasons it is not wise to fiddle with the internals of a standard PSU! It is infact very dangarous! Although fanless PSU’s are not cheap, you gain not much money by doing so.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://www.silentmaxx.de/nt_prosilence_fanless.php
Cheers
That PSU is worth about 8-10 times what a normal PSU is worth... no thanks.
I would rather build one... PSUs can be dangerous if you dont know how to handle them properly.
"The intention here is to create a PC that can replace the CD transport. It will only be used for 2 channel CD quality audio (uncompressed WAV files). "
That's getting a CD player the hard way, but then we don't do this stuff because it's practical. 
If you can afford DSL or cable modem a really good application is internet radio. I'm findind the selections are more varied than broadcast and the sound is cleaner than all but the very best FM. Also internet radio stations don't seem to compress the dynamics out as much as broadcast does -- maybe because they aren't trying to be heard over commute hour traffic.
That's getting a CD player the hard way, but then we don't do this stuff because it's practical.
If you can afford DSL or cable modem a really good application is internet radio. I'm findind the selections are more varied than broadcast and the sound is cleaner than all but the very best FM. Also internet radio stations don't seem to compress the dynamics out as much as broadcast does -- maybe because they aren't trying to be heard over commute hour traffic.
Dear Sam9,
"That's getting a CD player the hard way, but then we don't do this stuff because it's practical."
Of course I am being practical 
1) I want the convenience of my whole CD collection in my HDD without loss of quality
2) I may get a machine that outperforms my reference CD transport
Anyway, just trying to outdo my previous projects
Regards,
Joe Ling
"That's getting a CD player the hard way, but then we don't do this stuff because it's practical."
Of course I am being practical
1) I want the convenience of my whole CD collection in my HDD without loss of quality
2) I may get a machine that outperforms my reference CD transport
Anyway, just trying to outdo my previous projects
Regards,
Joe Ling
joeling39 said:
Hmm, that will not be easy. To outperform that, I agree with fmak that you need to hook up a high quality external DAC. Although I don’t now what your “reference” is.
The only advantage of a PC-based audio home system is storage and managing your collection, in that you are right. On a 120 Gb HD you can store a lot of CD’s without problem. Having several of such HD’s on a removable tray...
Cheers
joeling39 said:1) I want the convenience of my whole CD collection in my HDD without loss of quality
2) I may get a machine that outperforms my reference CD transport
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Computer audio boasts about jitter 0(nS). High quality audio needs jitter 0(pS). No comparison.
You are also talking about rather noisy powers supplies etc.
Computer audio boasts about jitter 0(nS). High quality audio needs jitter 0(pS). No comparison.
You are also talking about rather noisy powers supplies etc.
I think we all agree that external DACs must be used.
In that case, jitter and PSU noise isnt such a concern as far as the PC goes.
---------------------------------------------------------MWP said:
It is the imported jitterv to the dac that I am talking about. My experience with PLLs and relocking has shown that these are not universally effective in improving sound.
Once you import locked in jitter from the source, you cannot remove it!
Although the pcm2902 in itself probably doesn't qualify as a high-end device, it can be used to create a solution.
The specs for the pcm2902 show that it has an spdif output.
We might use this output to feed an external dac.
Usb repeaters can be used if the maximum length (5m/16ft) of an usb cable isn't enough to get the noise pc out of the listening room.
The specs for the pcm2902 show that it has an spdif output.
We might use this output to feed an external dac.
Usb repeaters can be used if the maximum length (5m/16ft) of an usb cable isn't enough to get the noise pc out of the listening room.
Read this thread :
http://diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21400
Basically you need a PC, a digital soundcard with a way to feed it a clock, and a DIY DAC with a XO. Not that complicated...
Also the WAV format is useless. You're much better off with a lossless format like FLAC which compresses well and supports TAGS. I cant' overstress the importance of TAGS when you have a lot of music files and want to convert to MP3 for your car player, how do you do it without tags ?
http://diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21400
Basically you need a PC, a digital soundcard with a way to feed it a clock, and a DIY DAC with a XO. Not that complicated...
Also the WAV format is useless. You're much better off with a lossless format like FLAC which compresses well and supports TAGS. I cant' overstress the importance of TAGS when you have a lot of music files and want to convert to MP3 for your car player, how do you do it without tags ?
MWP said:
Well, I wouldn't necessarily agree to that. The Lynx Two cards will perform on par with virtually any real-world solution as far as THD+N etc are concerned. They measure with a noise floor at an honest -110 to -115dB, and that is with the converters INSIDE the pc. This may not be quite up to the absolute state-of-the-art external converters, but surely betters any of the typical consumer or semi-pro DACs out there.
Now, if you are adamant about using a DAC with a particular set of design principles (ie Non-OS or whatever) then this won't be appealing, but you certainly can't criticize it with simplistic "pc is too noisy" arguments.
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