in case any of you are interested, almost complete Hi-Fi rack follow link to thread.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/equipment-tools/180778-hifi-rack.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/equipment-tools/180778-hifi-rack.html
Hello everyone!
This is my first post, I'm a total newbie, with no formation on electronics whatsoever, but I'm here to try to learn as much as possible from you. I have an Audiolab 8000A series C, i think, and would like to perform a few modifications and upgrades, as it's starting to get old.
The sound is actually pretty good, but I think I can improve it much further. I have a few questions I'd like to ask you regarding your mods, and all the ones I'm about to make. For now, I'm still studying what I will or should do, and make all the suggested mods in a couple of months, gradually, to see what should be the most significant.
1. What are the differences between the ELNA STARGET and the RE2 and why did they use both and should I differentiate these when recapping? Can or should I use all the caps from the same make?
2. I am thinking of changing these to Elna Silmic II or Nichikon Muse, which should be the better choice, or could I find any other better? It's kind of hard to get Panasonic Pureism, as much as I have searched, at least all the values needed?
3. Regarding YEW128's mods, why did you use those OSCONs in the pre-amp section and should I get much better sonic performance compared to the Silmic IIs?
Why did you placed those four silver micas, and why didn't you replaced the EVOX for WIMAs in the preamp section too, like you did for the power section? Also, what are the values for the two OSCONs (I think) used in the power section? They seem much larger than the original RE2s.
4. I want to change the two big ELNAs in the power supply too. This should be the second mod I'll make. Thinking of using either MUNDORF (or F&T), KENDEIL, BHC AEROVOX or NICHICON. Which do you think should be the best? And should I get any improvement in using 15.000uf/63v instead of the original 10.000uf/50v?
5. The first mod will be changing the RCA sockets and binding posts, and rewiring the speaker terminals with a better cabling. I'd like some suggestions here too... thinking of using some speaker cable, like VAN DAMME LC-OFC or SOMMER ORBIT, or maybe VAN DEN HUL CS-18, but not sure what gauge should be the best here, or just use plain PTFE 1mm silver plated copper hook-up wire.
Sorry for making such a long post and sorry for hijacking this thread too, if you wish me to start a new one, just name it.
Thank you all in advanced for all your help and knowledge!
This is my first post, I'm a total newbie, with no formation on electronics whatsoever, but I'm here to try to learn as much as possible from you. I have an Audiolab 8000A series C, i think, and would like to perform a few modifications and upgrades, as it's starting to get old.
The sound is actually pretty good, but I think I can improve it much further. I have a few questions I'd like to ask you regarding your mods, and all the ones I'm about to make. For now, I'm still studying what I will or should do, and make all the suggested mods in a couple of months, gradually, to see what should be the most significant.
1. What are the differences between the ELNA STARGET and the RE2 and why did they use both and should I differentiate these when recapping? Can or should I use all the caps from the same make?
2. I am thinking of changing these to Elna Silmic II or Nichikon Muse, which should be the better choice, or could I find any other better? It's kind of hard to get Panasonic Pureism, as much as I have searched, at least all the values needed?
3. Regarding YEW128's mods, why did you use those OSCONs in the pre-amp section and should I get much better sonic performance compared to the Silmic IIs?
Why did you placed those four silver micas, and why didn't you replaced the EVOX for WIMAs in the preamp section too, like you did for the power section? Also, what are the values for the two OSCONs (I think) used in the power section? They seem much larger than the original RE2s.
4. I want to change the two big ELNAs in the power supply too. This should be the second mod I'll make. Thinking of using either MUNDORF (or F&T), KENDEIL, BHC AEROVOX or NICHICON. Which do you think should be the best? And should I get any improvement in using 15.000uf/63v instead of the original 10.000uf/50v?
5. The first mod will be changing the RCA sockets and binding posts, and rewiring the speaker terminals with a better cabling. I'd like some suggestions here too... thinking of using some speaker cable, like VAN DAMME LC-OFC or SOMMER ORBIT, or maybe VAN DEN HUL CS-18, but not sure what gauge should be the best here, or just use plain PTFE 1mm silver plated copper hook-up wire.
Sorry for making such a long post and sorry for hijacking this thread too, if you wish me to start a new one, just name it.
Thank you all in advanced for all your help and knowledge!
Hi Fulci,
I will answer your queries but strongly advise yourself not to proceed with such matters until you have atleast done some basic electronics course. Otherwise you may be placing yourself in danger.
1. What are the differences between the ELNA STARGET and the RE2 and why did they use both and should I differentiate these when recapping? Can or should I use all the caps from the same make?
Depends on how deep your pockets are, and, if you prefer the signature of the type of caps you deploy.
2. I am thinking of changing these to Elna Silmic II or Nichikon Muse, which should be the better choice, or could I find any other better? It's kind of hard to get Panasonic Pureism, as much as I have searched, at least all the values needed?
As per Q1
3. Regarding YEW128's mods, why did you use those OSCONs in the pre-amp section and should I get much better sonic performance compared to the Silmic IIs?
I did not have many caps of the correct value - same as per original. Of those I had, OSCON did the job to my satisfaction.
Why did you placed those four silver micas, and why didn't you replaced the EVOX for WIMAs in the preamp section too, like you did for the power section?
You need to study the basic pre-amp circuit to determine what should be change. Alternative is "brute force".
Also, what are the values for the two OSCONs (I think) used in the power section? They seem much larger than the original RE2s.
OSCON(s) are usually larger. Only 2 were used and these filter the signals from pre to power section. The original ELNA(s) were giving the reproduction a "raw" effect. The OSCON capacitance are the same as per original.
4. I want to change the two big ELNAs in the power supply too. This should be the second mod I'll make. Thinking of using either MUNDORF (or F&T), KENDEIL, BHC AEROVOX or NICHICON. Which do you think should be the best? And should I get any improvement in using 15.000uf/63v instead of the original 10.000uf/50v?
As per my advise to Graham, the return on investment (ROI) will not be so good. And I did not find it necessary to do any such replacements on my unit.
5. The first mod will be changing the RCA sockets and binding posts, and rewiring the speaker terminals with a better cabling. I'd like some suggestions here too... thinking of using some speaker cable, like VAN DAMME LC-OFC or SOMMER ORBIT, or maybe VAN DEN HUL CS-18, but not sure what gauge should be the best here, or just use plain PTFE 1mm silver plated copper hook-up wire.
These are personnel preferences. I did not alter my unit in this manner as it was good enough for my ears.
I will answer your queries but strongly advise yourself not to proceed with such matters until you have atleast done some basic electronics course. Otherwise you may be placing yourself in danger.
1. What are the differences between the ELNA STARGET and the RE2 and why did they use both and should I differentiate these when recapping? Can or should I use all the caps from the same make?
Depends on how deep your pockets are, and, if you prefer the signature of the type of caps you deploy.
2. I am thinking of changing these to Elna Silmic II or Nichikon Muse, which should be the better choice, or could I find any other better? It's kind of hard to get Panasonic Pureism, as much as I have searched, at least all the values needed?
As per Q1
3. Regarding YEW128's mods, why did you use those OSCONs in the pre-amp section and should I get much better sonic performance compared to the Silmic IIs?
I did not have many caps of the correct value - same as per original. Of those I had, OSCON did the job to my satisfaction.
Why did you placed those four silver micas, and why didn't you replaced the EVOX for WIMAs in the preamp section too, like you did for the power section?
You need to study the basic pre-amp circuit to determine what should be change. Alternative is "brute force".
Also, what are the values for the two OSCONs (I think) used in the power section? They seem much larger than the original RE2s.
OSCON(s) are usually larger. Only 2 were used and these filter the signals from pre to power section. The original ELNA(s) were giving the reproduction a "raw" effect. The OSCON capacitance are the same as per original.
4. I want to change the two big ELNAs in the power supply too. This should be the second mod I'll make. Thinking of using either MUNDORF (or F&T), KENDEIL, BHC AEROVOX or NICHICON. Which do you think should be the best? And should I get any improvement in using 15.000uf/63v instead of the original 10.000uf/50v?
As per my advise to Graham, the return on investment (ROI) will not be so good. And I did not find it necessary to do any such replacements on my unit.
5. The first mod will be changing the RCA sockets and binding posts, and rewiring the speaker terminals with a better cabling. I'd like some suggestions here too... thinking of using some speaker cable, like VAN DAMME LC-OFC or SOMMER ORBIT, or maybe VAN DEN HUL CS-18, but not sure what gauge should be the best here, or just use plain PTFE 1mm silver plated copper hook-up wire.
These are personnel preferences. I did not alter my unit in this manner as it was good enough for my ears.
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Thank you so very much for your reply!
It's difficult to get a basic course where I live, the best I can do is self-teach with every info I can get in the web and books. The minimum I could get would be a 3 year degree, it should be too much, as I am not doing a career from this.
I will, of course, be aided and supervised by a friend, an electronics engineer, and take all the measures needed to proceed with all the modifications securely.
First, I will be making a few mods to my Beresford Caiman DAC, just to get the hang of the soldering cable, but only after I practice with (destroy) a few old boards from a very old PC...
It's difficult to get a basic course where I live, the best I can do is self-teach with every info I can get in the web and books. The minimum I could get would be a 3 year degree, it should be too much, as I am not doing a career from this.
I will, of course, be aided and supervised by a friend, an electronics engineer, and take all the measures needed to proceed with all the modifications securely.
First, I will be making a few mods to my Beresford Caiman DAC, just to get the hang of the soldering cable, but only after I practice with (destroy) a few old boards from a very old PC...
Regarding question 1 and 2, I'll be using Nichicon KZ/FG... It was an easy answer for me, as, at least in hificollective.co.uk, the difference from the ELNA to the NICHICON is from €130 to €25. Since it's 1/5th, not sure if it's worth the price difference...
The Kendeils and F&Ts for the power supply cost less than €20 for both, so it's not that a big investment, and since they must have at least 20 years, it should be time for a replacement. Let's not forget that your Audiolab is a "F" series, and mine is a "C", so it's a much older machine.
Again, the problem with the binding posts and the RCA sockets, is that they used much better ones on the "F" series. The ones in earlier versions are very cheap. The RCA sockets fall off after a while, and the ones that didn't, got oxidized. The speaker terminals are also a bit oxidised, and the hole for the raw unterminated cable is limited to 1,5mm cabling. So this is a must.
Internal rewiring is just... well... common mods for an amp, I guess... Just not sure what cable to use, and what thickness.
The Kendeils and F&Ts for the power supply cost less than €20 for both, so it's not that a big investment, and since they must have at least 20 years, it should be time for a replacement. Let's not forget that your Audiolab is a "F" series, and mine is a "C", so it's a much older machine.
Again, the problem with the binding posts and the RCA sockets, is that they used much better ones on the "F" series. The ones in earlier versions are very cheap. The RCA sockets fall off after a while, and the ones that didn't, got oxidized. The speaker terminals are also a bit oxidised, and the hole for the raw unterminated cable is limited to 1,5mm cabling. So this is a must.
Internal rewiring is just... well... common mods for an amp, I guess... Just not sure what cable to use, and what thickness.
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