Ultimate Open Baffle Gallery

Hello all, while tuning an enclosure design, I noticed the qts. specs were very similar between a Scanspeak tweeter, a Scanspeak Revelator woofer, and some RSS 265HF-4 subdrivers.
As long as they're in free air.
The sound seems much more coherent than using unmatching qts. drivers together.
I hadn't expected qts. to matter at the 2000 hertz crossover point, but this sounds better than that woofer in a sealed box tuned to a 0.707 qts. Is this just random chance, or does qts. matter even at relatively high frequencies, compared to midbass, say @ 130 hertz?
I know, this is a gallery, but I was hoping for some advice from experienced builders.
If it's an inappropriate forum for this, I welcome advice in a pm. Thanks, all.

The Qts (and the other TSP) discribes only the behavior of a chassis at his resonace Frequency...
 
I always thought diffraction was frequency irregularities brought on by sharp edges redirecting higher frequencies , either fr om the baffle edges, or the plates or frames of non flush mounted drivers.
I suppose the polar fleece would dampen or eliminate those shorter wave treble problems.
It would help eliminate baffle reflections as well, so that would assist with imaging .

The downside , if you like the look of it, is cats may thank you for the big noisy scratching posts .

I've finished mine, and one thing I notice is that it gets shouty when place in the room, close to the back wall. I installed some foam on that wall and that helped reduce the shoutiness. Fleece may be a good thing as well, we'll see if that is really necessary.

I built a three way with no real data or parameter, and I am now up to the point of adjusting the levels of each driver. So far it looks like the mid needs some attenuating. It sounds good for the cost. I will post some pictures.
 
I've finished mine, and one thing I notice is that it gets shouty when place in the room, close to the back wall. I installed some foam on that wall and that helped reduce the shoutiness. Fleece may be a good thing as well, we'll see if that is really necessary.

I built a three way with no real data or parameter, and I am now up to the point of adjusting the levels of each driver. So far it looks like the mid needs some attenuating. It sounds good for the cost. I will post some pictures.

You must measure the response. Remember that drivers like the bass and mid range could have a peak when they are coming out of the 6dB slope on the lower end of the response. The peak can cause it to sound shouty or cuppy ! If you had a frequency response on the open baffle in the place you installed it, you would have a better idea what to do with it. Attacking it blind is very difficult !
 
completed my plain OB on 36mm plywood panel 32" x 46" :
- ACR 113212 21" : active xo 24dB filter.
- Fane 12-200LT : lpf 1.9mH
- Fostex FD600 & H500 : hpf 10uF
- Fostex T90a : hpf 1uf

subwoofer is powered by aragon2004 (already out of juice on bluray movie, maybe upgraded to nu3000dsp someday). while mid high is powered by SIT L'amp
 

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These are mine.

They are stone laminated. It's 6mm of a stone called Blue Barracuda, 6mm of honeycombed aluminium, 18mm of plywood, 6mm alu and 6mm stone for the backside as well. Keeps the whole thing well damped, and they weight about 22kg each.

Very pleased with the looks.

I'm using active filters with a miniDSP HD for the XO.
 

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Wow, these look deadly !The stone is very well finished with neat rounded edges. Must be pretty heavy too. I wanted to weigh mine down also but using a different method. It's still in the testing stage with flimsy wood. The final panel will come later....several months later !
Don't cut away the whizzer. It looks neat as it is. Cutting it might end up looking nasty if it can't be done "PERFECTLY". Why mess with it just because it isn't really doing much acoustically over there. It isn't an eye sore either.
Nothing wrong with it visually right now. I actually think it looks cool. Might look "worse" if you took it off and " EVEN worse" if the removal isn't absolutely perfectly done....That really can't be very easy. You will have to disassemble everything and if something slips and falls you'll have a ruined cone etc. Leave it as it is. It's very nice !
 
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They look great - interesting material! ...
I'd leave the whizzer - at the freq the speaker is working the whizzer is just part of the piston, removing it will only be cosmetic - but if you leave it on and decide to replace the drivers with other woofers, you have a pair of intact full-rangers to play with.
Great build!
 
completed my plain OB on 36mm plywood panel 32" x 46" :
- ACR 113212 21" : active xo 24dB filter.
- Fane 12-200LT : lpf 1.9mH
- Fostex FD600 & H500 : hpf 10uF
- Fostex T90a : hpf 1uf

subwoofer is powered by aragon2004 (already out of juice on bluray movie, maybe upgraded to nu3000dsp someday). while mid high is powered by SIT L'amp

Wow, 21 inch woofer!:) Very nice build!
 
The whizzer cone doesn't work at the operation frequency as a woofer. Maybe somebody fanatic can not tolerate to see this and consider absurd but is a fashion problem more than a physic one and your wife, probably doesn't know about the Whizzer cones in OB speakers. Your creation is amazing, cute and fine.
 
Dear Gadut

completed my plain OB on 36mm plywood panel 32" x 46" :
- ACR 113212 21" : active xo 24dB filter.
- Fane 12-200LT : lpf 1.9mH
- Fostex FD600 & H500 : hpf 10uF
- Fostex T90a : hpf 1uf

subwoofer is powered by aragon2004 (already out of juice on bluray movie, maybe upgraded to nu3000dsp someday). while mid high is powered by SIT L'amp

Your work is amazing.:eek: