Hi Bruno, I just assemblate my UCD180 HG with regulators, but I've a problem. The amp works only at very low volume. I set my potentiometer at -50dB and the amp works, but at -40dB the the blue led turn off , and the amp is mute. Whit low level music I can hear at higher potentiometer position , but when the music goes up, the protection works.
I set the amp in this way( one channel):
trafo 2x30V
Ixys diode bridge
22000uF per rail
power supply voltage ,+/-42V DC.
Can you help me?
thanks in advance.
Best.
I set the amp in this way( one channel):
trafo 2x30V
Ixys diode bridge
22000uF per rail
power supply voltage ,+/-42V DC.
Can you help me?
thanks in advance.
Best.
I'm having problems getting some UCD180HG modules powering up.
The HXR regulators light up red, but the main blue LED stays off.
Can people confirm I have the power connected the right way up? The datasheets are confusing and have incorrect J pinout numbering so I want to be sure I have them the right way round.
BTW, I've also connected the yellow wire from SMPS400 to amp enable pin (pin 4 of Molex) but no joy. I've confirmed the wire shorts to ground after SMPS powers up and I've tried manually grounding pin 4 of the molex, but still no blue LED.
I've emailed Hypex support and speaking with them, but wanted to check with the community too
Here's a photo of my connections. red is positive, blue is negative, black is ground.
The HXR regulators light up red, but the main blue LED stays off.
Can people confirm I have the power connected the right way up? The datasheets are confusing and have incorrect J pinout numbering so I want to be sure I have them the right way round.
BTW, I've also connected the yellow wire from SMPS400 to amp enable pin (pin 4 of Molex) but no joy. I've confirmed the wire shorts to ground after SMPS powers up and I've tried manually grounding pin 4 of the molex, but still no blue LED.
I've emailed Hypex support and speaking with them, but wanted to check with the community too
Here's a photo of my connections. red is positive, blue is negative, black is ground.
Attachments
I just found out the problem: the molex KK connector was wired round the wrong way!
I don't know if there is a standard for which end of the connector is pin 1, but I had a "1" marking on my connector and used that. I've only just realised that the illustration in the UcD documentation has pin 1 at the other end!
All looking blue now. Just rewiring the connector and will test in a moment
I don't know if there is a standard for which end of the connector is pin 1, but I had a "1" marking on my connector and used that. I've only just realised that the illustration in the UcD documentation has pin 1 at the other end!
All looking blue now. Just rewiring the connector and will test in a moment
Hmm, amps now appear to be working but I have terrible ground loop buzz.
I want to have two inputs: one balanced XLR straight into UcD module, one unbalanced RCA going through a 50k pot to act as volume control.
I've attached a drawing of how it's wired up.
The buzz seems to come and go as I move wires around, or move my hand near the selector. It's really strange. I've double checked my wiring but cannot see anything obvious.
Any ideas?
I want to have two inputs: one balanced XLR straight into UcD module, one unbalanced RCA going through a 50k pot to act as volume control.
I've attached a drawing of how it's wired up.
The buzz seems to come and go as I move wires around, or move my hand near the selector. It's really strange. I've double checked my wiring but cannot see anything obvious.
Any ideas?
Attachments
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the pot is now mounted on the chassis, so is effectively grounded.
Now, it's all working well. Not too sure if it was the fact the pot wasn't mounted in chassis causing it, but hey, ground loop buzz is very low, and (with no sound), volume has to be turned up way too much before it becomes noticeable.
Now I need to get my old Teac vrds-10 working again, the belt drive for the ejecting the transport has given up the ghost!
Now, it's all working well. Not too sure if it was the fact the pot wasn't mounted in chassis causing it, but hey, ground loop buzz is very low, and (with no sound), volume has to be turned up way too much before it becomes noticeable.
Now I need to get my old Teac vrds-10 working again, the belt drive for the ejecting the transport has given up the ghost!
Advice re linear v smps power supply for UcD180
Thinking seriously about constructing power amplifier based on the Hypex UcD180 modules.
I would prefer to use the switch mode power supply (SMPS400) due to connivence and cost saving.
My question is - will a smps degrade sound quality?
This may have been discussed elsewhere - point me in the right direction.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Randall
Thinking seriously about constructing power amplifier based on the Hypex UcD180 modules.
I would prefer to use the switch mode power supply (SMPS400) due to connivence and cost saving.
My question is - will a smps degrade sound quality?
This may have been discussed elsewhere - point me in the right direction.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Randall
hi,
is there any tweaks for new ucd180hg ?
because ive spent some couple of hours looking at the hotroding ucd thread but it s all about AD version.
180HG is mounted with hypex supply caps (220uF i think). i read that it s useless to put some 680uF pana fc.
do u know more about tweaking HG version ?
is there any tweaks for new ucd180hg ?
because ive spent some couple of hours looking at the hotroding ucd thread but it s all about AD version.
180HG is mounted with hypex supply caps (220uF i think). i read that it s useless to put some 680uF pana fc.
do u know more about tweaking HG version ?
I have some older Hypex parts I am now building into an amp: Two 180AD modules; One 180ST power supply; a huge and impressive transformer from DIY Cable, the UCD180 630VA, which is 630Va with 30 volts to feed the power supply.
I do not have a soft start, which I will likely get in a few weeks. My question: I want to build the amp now and see if all parts are working and if I like the sound. I purchased the parts used a number of years ago and they have been sitting in my closet. Presume they will all work fine.
In the short run, if I build the amp without soft start, what real risk do I run without having soft start in place?
I do not have a soft start, which I will likely get in a few weeks. My question: I want to build the amp now and see if all parts are working and if I like the sound. I purchased the parts used a number of years ago and they have been sitting in my closet. Presume they will all work fine.
In the short run, if I build the amp without soft start, what real risk do I run without having soft start in place?
No soft start experience
Hey Dtaylo--I built a system (UCD180) in 2005 with a much smaller power supply (160VA--weight was a major factor); it is used for a custom portable PA system. I never put a soft start in, and have never had a problem--however, for the sake of your speakers, you have to be religious about power-on/off sequence (last on, first off)!
Hey Dtaylo--I built a system (UCD180) in 2005 with a much smaller power supply (160VA--weight was a major factor); it is used for a custom portable PA system. I never put a soft start in, and have never had a problem--however, for the sake of your speakers, you have to be religious about power-on/off sequence (last on, first off)!
Hi,
I just placed my UCD 180 in a new chassis. I finished one channel and I am getting a very annoying hiss. I did not have this hiss in my old chassis. Is it because the speaker terminals are so close to the amplifier or could it be a ground loop caused by the amp-on connection to the ground of the SMPS?
Any help would be appriciated!!
I just placed my UCD 180 in a new chassis. I finished one channel and I am getting a very annoying hiss. I did not have this hiss in my old chassis. Is it because the speaker terminals are so close to the amplifier or could it be a ground loop caused by the amp-on connection to the ground of the SMPS?
Any help would be appriciated!!
Attachments
Try twisting the pwr leads and removing them from under the SMPS pcb.
BTW, I love the wood face and rear. The routed top edge looks good.
EDIT: Also try moving the signal wire to get it out of the spkr lead loop .
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