Ah, so you are exploring the many projects at ESP - a great adventure for audio DIYs. 
Digital Delay
Fig 4 is only an external oscillator modification to minimise the delay of the PT2399 chip. It applies to both versions shown in fig. 1 & 3. The circuits are quite basic since the active circuitry is all within the chip. Only a handful of passive components are necessary, though it requires only a single 5V supply rather than +/- 15V supplies for the TL071/2. Note that you need a pair for stereo signals.
I think you will need to read carefully with Google translate or other good online translation software to ensure you understand the scope of the projects. The best solution for projects that seem challenging, and it is still relatively cheap, is to buy a pair of PCBs from Rod Elliott (aka. rode here) and then follow the assembly details that will be made available to you on the ESP forum. You can probably buy all the other components, including the chip, locally. This project will be more interesting and teach you about controlling noise and the basics and limitations of audio processing.
Digital Delay Fig 4 is only an external oscillator modification to minimise the delay of the PT2399 chip. It applies to both versions shown in fig. 1 & 3. The circuits are quite basic since the active circuitry is all within the chip. Only a handful of passive components are necessary, though it requires only a single 5V supply rather than +/- 15V supplies for the TL071/2. Note that you need a pair for stereo signals.
I think you will need to read carefully with Google translate or other good online translation software to ensure you understand the scope of the projects. The best solution for projects that seem challenging, and it is still relatively cheap, is to buy a pair of PCBs from Rod Elliott (aka. rode here) and then follow the assembly details that will be made available to you on the ESP forum. You can probably buy all the other components, including the chip, locally. This project will be more interesting and teach you about controlling noise and the basics and limitations of audio processing.
Okay, so its not that simple.
Alright, after the adaptor I will get back to it and we'll see how its works out.
And yeah, you got the point, I'm not native english, so I'm not completely sure in everything I read, more than that when its about electronics, and audio things which I'm also novice in.
Alright, after the adaptor I will get back to it and we'll see how its works out.
And yeah, you got the point, I'm not native english, so I'm not completely sure in everything I read, more than that when its about electronics, and audio things which I'm also novice in.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tuoa3hvhckxhvfu/2014-02-12 20.20.45.jpg
Adaptor is done, I guess. No in/outputs or power supply yet, I need to think over the casing, how could I place everything (and maybe prepare the space for a delay piece to add later).
Is it okay if I post that kinda thing in this topic? Or should I open a new one to show of this project.
Adaptor is done, I guess. No in/outputs or power supply yet, I need to think over the casing, how could I place everything (and maybe prepare the space for a delay piece to add later).
Is it okay if I post that kinda thing in this topic? Or should I open a new one to show of this project.
Fine, you can post here as it keeps everything together. You could also attach an image the size of the linked image which would then remain with the project thread. Image hosts usually discard old files and the thread loses its meaning.
Your case could be expensive since metal is best for low noise and hum shielding, so better to buy what is available locally or is adaptable, like a tin box for sweets. You can mount the boards the easiest way you can, even screwing the board onto little glued blocks of wood. There's no need to build it heavy - just big enough for the 2 PCBs and a small power supply for +/- 12-15V, which you could power easily with a small 12VAC output mains plug adaptor, if they are available in your country. You only need very small currents, < 50mA for the whole project. Here is a regulated supply for the TLO72. You could use the same plug adaptor, but would need to make another supply later for a single 5V supply suiting the delay. This is just for the Hafler circuit:
The AC input is to J1,J3 only as J2 is ground which is only available at the PC or the powered speakers, through the audio cable shield or a separate ground wire, if necessary.
Alternatively, you should be able to open your powered speakers and use the power supply(s) inside to power your project, adding some capacitors like the C1 and C2 types onto the hafler board power rails, for local smoothing and noise filtering.
Your case could be expensive since metal is best for low noise and hum shielding, so better to buy what is available locally or is adaptable, like a tin box for sweets. You can mount the boards the easiest way you can, even screwing the board onto little glued blocks of wood. There's no need to build it heavy - just big enough for the 2 PCBs and a small power supply for +/- 12-15V, which you could power easily with a small 12VAC output mains plug adaptor, if they are available in your country. You only need very small currents, < 50mA for the whole project. Here is a regulated supply for the TLO72. You could use the same plug adaptor, but would need to make another supply later for a single 5V supply suiting the delay. This is just for the Hafler circuit:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The AC input is to J1,J3 only as J2 is ground which is only available at the PC or the powered speakers, through the audio cable shield or a separate ground wire, if necessary.
Alternatively, you should be able to open your powered speakers and use the power supply(s) inside to power your project, adding some capacitors like the C1 and C2 types onto the hafler board power rails, for local smoothing and noise filtering.
Last edited:
New Genuine HuntKey HKA01812010-1A 12V 1A Power Adapter-LAY123N
As for power supply I have something like this, with different connectors to fit Hungarian standards.
As for the case is it absolutely necessary to use metal? I know, its better, but I have no luck with it yet. But I found a couple plastic boxes what I can use, also easier to work with (I mean I have to drill lot of holes for the different connectors)
As for power supply I have something like this, with different connectors to fit Hungarian standards.
As for the case is it absolutely necessary to use metal? I know, its better, but I have no luck with it yet. But I found a couple plastic boxes what I can use, also easier to work with (I mean I have to drill lot of holes for the different connectors)
The device you linked is a DC power supply. You would need 2 of them for balanced +/- 12VDC supplies suiting an Opamp. Even then, you will still need regulator ICs (7812, 7912) to ensure clean power. However, these need a higher voltage DC like ~16VDC to begin with. A simple, 1A or smaller 12V transformer can also be used if you can work safely with mains wiring. 
Look for an AC transformer with 12-15V AC output as the simplest option. This may be available as an AC/AC adaptor, like this one: 12 Volt 1 AMP AC AC Power Supply Adapter 12V 1000 MA | eBay
Look for an AC transformer with 12-15V AC output as the simplest option. This may be available as an AC/AC adaptor, like this one: 12 Volt 1 AMP AC AC Power Supply Adapter 12V 1000 MA | eBay
Thats what I have at home right now, or a 9V transformator from the pc speakers.
(or several ~5V phone charger, but thats low I'm sure)
I assembled together the adaptor with this power supply and the rear speakers for testing, and it was pretty good (as I can tell with my non-professional hearing).
(or several ~5V phone charger, but thats low I'm sure)
I assembled together the adaptor with this power supply and the rear speakers for testing, and it was pretty good (as I can tell with my non-professional hearing).
I think you may not understand.
1) Most mains adaptors are actually DC supplies of only one voltage, 5,9,12V DC etc.
2) ESP p18 requires a dual supply of +15V and -15V or +12V and -12V DC power supplies. Read the schematic and see for yourself.
3) You cannot alter a single DC supply to make dual voltage outputs.
4)The easiest way to make a dual DC power supply is to start with AC, not DC input.
Please read the ESP articles on power supplies to find out how and why to do that.
1) Most mains adaptors are actually DC supplies of only one voltage, 5,9,12V DC etc.
2) ESP p18 requires a dual supply of +15V and -15V or +12V and -12V DC power supplies. Read the schematic and see for yourself.
3) You cannot alter a single DC supply to make dual voltage outputs.
4)The easiest way to make a dual DC power supply is to start with AC, not DC input.
Please read the ESP articles on power supplies to find out how and why to do that.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.