poobah said:
Yah, had ta do it, cause my 100 foot snakerator puts the poweramp on the stage, and I wanted local control, meaning putting the amp up on the balcony and running a 100 and 150 foot #12 speaker run down to the stage, twisted together orthogonally, of course, with neutrik terminations.
I paused development of the twisterator when the gameplan changed to include a dvd player and an RG6 feed to the stage. That pic is early on, it now includes tensioners, a pulley setup that turns the spools counter to base platter rotation, and I started the feed/takeup mechanisms. Now, however, I am considering making the spool rotation fully programmable and independent of the base platter. (after the kitchen tiles, of course). If you have the spools lag the rotation sufficiently, the wires will try to keep the twist of the cable, as opposed to the drill method where the wires fight the cable twist.
Course, with the summer upon us, they are again (sigh) reviewing the show for possible changes, and I've no clue what that's gonna mean w/r to my ele support. So the current snakerator lives on, albeit heavier and heavier with more and more wires..
Ditto..thanks.poobah said:
poobah said:I can't speak for John, I do a few thing right these days, it's just a statistical advantage really. I have done so many things wrong.
They say an expert is one who has made all the mistakes in their discipline..
Given the huge quantity of mistakes I've made, I must be an expert in sumptin, no??
PS...snakerator pic attached, this is before the rg6 cable was added.definitely runnin out of room.. and, no, I will not entertain powerpuff girl jokes...
Cheers, John
Attachments
Banned
Joined 2002
jneutron said:
Yah, had ta do it, cause my 100 foot snakerator puts the poweramp on the stage, and I wanted local control, meaning putting the amp up on the balcony and running a 100 and 150 foot #12 speaker run down to the stage, twisted together orthogonally, of course, with neutrik terminations.
I paused development of the twisterator when the gameplan changed to include a dvd player and an RG6 feed to the stage. That pic is early on, it now includes tensioners, a pulley setup that turns the spools counter to base platter rotation, and I started the feed/takeup mechanisms. Now, however, I am considering making the spool rotation fully programmable and independent of the base platter. (after the kitchen tiles, of course). If you have the spools lag the rotation sufficiently, the wires will try to keep the twist of the cable, as opposed to the drill method where the wires fight the cable twist.
Course, with the summer upon us, they are again (sigh) reviewing the show for possible changes, and I've no clue what that's gonna mean w/r to my ele support. So the current snakerator lives on, albeit heavier and heavier with more and more wires..
Ditto..thanks.
They say an expert is one who has made all the mistakes in their discipline..
Given the huge quantity of mistakes I've made, I must be an expert in sumptin, no??
PS...snakerator pic attached, this is before the rg6 cable was added.definitely runnin out of room.. and, no, I will not entertain powerpuff girl jokes...
Cheers, John
How much PowerPuff Girls stuff do you have.. You must collect it
jleaman said:
How much PowerPuff Girls stuff do you have.. You must collect it
Hey, you're not profiling me, are you!!!
I took that pic two years ago, just after my daughter's birthday. I hadn't noticed the powerpuff girl wrapping paper behind the snake spool until about a year later....when someone pointed it out..sheesh..
Cheers, John
Banned
Joined 2002
jneutron said:
Hey, you're not profiling me, are you!!!
I took that pic two years ago, just after my daughter's birthday. I hadn't noticed the powerpuff girl wrapping paper behind the snake spool until about a year later....when someone pointed it out..sheesh..
Cheers, John
OHH so you have it hanging up in your shop LOL just kidding
As we're in Chipamp forum, and a number of people use a separate PSU (or just transformer) box, what's 'best practice' for the umbilical and grounding?
Two bridges with 4 wires in the umbilical, as a twisted pair of 2 twisted pairs from each bridge?
And how do folk recommend grounding be arranged in the psu box? A snubber/parallel low-value resistor between the umbilical 0V wire(s) and safety earth a bit like this? With the star ground point in the amp box?
Two bridges with 4 wires in the umbilical, as a twisted pair of 2 twisted pairs from each bridge?
And how do folk recommend grounding be arranged in the psu box? A snubber/parallel low-value resistor between the umbilical 0V wire(s) and safety earth a bit like this? With the star ground point in the amp box?
Two boxes, dual-secondary transformer/rectifier in one, two amp boards in the other. Both boxes full metal jacket.
I'm really interested in whether a two-bridge, 4 wire umbilical is likely to be better than a single-bridge 3-wire umbilical as far as noise pickup is concerned, given the fairly minor cost of a second bridge. Or even using a single bridge but keeping the two 0V lines from the secondaries in the umbilical rather than linking them in the psu box (single-bridge 4-wire) as one must with a CT transformer.
I'm really interested in whether a two-bridge, 4 wire umbilical is likely to be better than a single-bridge 3-wire umbilical as far as noise pickup is concerned, given the fairly minor cost of a second bridge. Or even using a single bridge but keeping the two 0V lines from the secondaries in the umbilical rather than linking them in the psu box (single-bridge 4-wire) as one must with a CT transformer.
OK.
1) Connect the earth in the PSU to the chassis.
2) Do not connect common to earth in the PSU.
3) Bring out 4 wires: plus, com, minus, earth. twist them all neatly.
4) Connect the earth and the coomon in the amp chassis at the STAR point.
5) This should be done with a connector such that the amp cannot be powered unless the earth connection is made.
6) Your earth wire in the umbilical could be bare stranded wire and you could put a braided copper sleeve over the mess for shielding.
7) The braided shield could also be the earth conductor as long as you comply with #5.
1) Connect the earth in the PSU to the chassis.
2) Do not connect common to earth in the PSU.
3) Bring out 4 wires: plus, com, minus, earth. twist them all neatly.
4) Connect the earth and the coomon in the amp chassis at the STAR point.
5) This should be done with a connector such that the amp cannot be powered unless the earth connection is made.
6) Your earth wire in the umbilical could be bare stranded wire and you could put a braided copper sleeve over the mess for shielding.
7) The braided shield could also be the earth conductor as long as you comply with #5.
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