Marry Christmas to all
We must have at least 20 pcs. to start a modified Tube-I-zator with the same pricing.
Happy New Year!
I have my project with tube-i-Zator almost over. I have a prototipo mounted in a wooden box. It's a buffalo II DAC with selectable output stage between tube and legato v.3. This change is with a switch. I have used panasonic tq2 relays to make the change.
The relays off (no power) give way to LEGATO. The signal path between dac and legato is 4cm.
The relays on (with power) give way to tube-i-Zator. The signal path is 8-10 cm.
At the moment I have a little more length in the cables and they are somewhat messy, until the final place in the box. All signal cables are silver.
I have used shunt regulators "salas" for all power supplies. Some Russian PIO capacitors and bypass ft3. When placed in the final box I put Mundorf silver in oil in output valves and some resistance Texas Instruments.
The DAC is controlled by arduino. I'm yet to put a usb-i2s interfece. At the moment it is connected by toslink. My source is a MacMini.
The sound is fantastic. At the moment I do not find differences with the version without relays
The pictures are made with a mobile phone.
Sorry for my bad English.
I have my project with tube-i-Zator almost over. I have a prototipo mounted in a wooden box. It's a buffalo II DAC with selectable output stage between tube and legato v.3. This change is with a switch. I have used panasonic tq2 relays to make the change.
The relays off (no power) give way to LEGATO. The signal path between dac and legato is 4cm.
The relays on (with power) give way to tube-i-Zator. The signal path is 8-10 cm.
At the moment I have a little more length in the cables and they are somewhat messy, until the final place in the box. All signal cables are silver.
I have used shunt regulators "salas" for all power supplies. Some Russian PIO capacitors and bypass ft3. When placed in the final box I put Mundorf silver in oil in output valves and some resistance Texas Instruments.
The DAC is controlled by arduino. I'm yet to put a usb-i2s interfece. At the moment it is connected by toslink. My source is a MacMini.
The sound is fantastic. At the moment I do not find differences with the version without relays
The pictures are made with a mobile phone.
Sorry for my bad English.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hello, I'm still working on the project. When finished will look better. Care much aesthetics and order. I will use a mechanized modu.it box.
The control using arduino is very comfortable. They control all possible configurations of the chip SABRE, the same way as does the BIII by min-switches.
I followed the following guide:
INTRO H i F i D U I N O
and works well. There is a version of code for dual mono.
regards
AL
The control using arduino is very comfortable. They control all possible configurations of the chip SABRE, the same way as does the BIII by min-switches.
I followed the following guide:
INTRO H i F i D U I N O
and works well. There is a version of code for dual mono.
regards
AL
Hi Alberto,
Did you get this error message?
As of Arduino 1.0, the 'BYTE' keyword is no longer supported.
Please use Serial.write() instead.
Ciao!
Do
Hi Pinocchio
I used the editor "Arduino IDE v. 0022" as the guide says.
With this version of the code editor is fine.
You can download it here:
Arduino - Software
Br
AL
I used the editor "Arduino IDE v. 0022" as the guide says.
With this version of the code editor is fine.
You can download it here:
Arduino - Software
Br
AL
Sorry... My bad!
Did you make any changes to the code?
So far I'm changing 80MHz clock to 100MHz for my BIIs but I guess everything else is done on Arduino as config? I never played with the BII registers so I don't know what is optimal. You can PM me with your findings if you don't mind.
Ciao!
Do
I changed the welcome message. It is easy to locate in the code.
According to the Rotary encoder you use you should try the best choice of code. Read this:
PROBLEMS WITH ROTARY ENCODERS? H i F i D U I N O
I have a clock 80. It's hard to switch to 100?
Br
Al
The setup settings I use is seen in the photo of the LCD. I have not tried much. The good thing is that arduino you can change settings instantly with the pot or remote control.
With 4 relays panasonic tq2-5v. They are powered with 6.3v of tube pcb-i-Zator.
2x relays control the + and - output of the DAC. Gnd is direct. L and R
2x relay control outputs + and gnd of legato and tube. L and R
A switch current leads to the legato (and shunt regulator) or tube-i-Zator.
When running the legato, the relays are off and give way dac signal to legato. legato output is open and the closed tube.
When does the tube-i-Zator the relays are turned on and give way dac signal to the tube. Legato output is closed and the open tube.
Br
Al
Al
I really enjoy what you have done with your system and want to experiment with the Arduino. My current system is BII with Legato 3. I also have a Tubizator board which is in use with a ADC 1863 system. I use a Volumite on my BII. Does this need to be removed to give the Arduino control?
Thank you
Bob
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.