Tripath Input Coupling Caps

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Thanks for the welcome! :D I will try to contact theAnononymous 1 and serengetiplains by email as soon as my moderstion is completed. In the mean time I will follow your progress. I had in mind to try one or more of these, Auricap, Sonicap or Dynamicap, but will wait for your results and conclusions :confused:
 
Now I know what you meant between the coughs Brian. Ahhhhh that DC Coupling.

The DC Coupling seems like a great idea if all your equipment is aligned and the source media is produced well. And then there is everything else you want to hear. Some will get by sounding OK but then there is the bad stuff and that becomes unlistenable and I'll bet it's a higher percentage than any one of us can live with.

So how can this circuit be made not to lose its strengths and still be forgiving enough to let us appreciate at least 1/3 of my CDs.

One of the ways I judge a system is by the slick production CDs, which sound good on almost anything and amazing on the nice systems. But to me, just as important is that they let me enjoy things like Led Zeppelin CDs with songs like "What is and what should never be" which didn't translate well to CD, without getting fidgety and walking away to do dishes or some other non gratifying chore.

I know this is a quandry but this is what will take this mainstream.

Dave, I wonder if the VR would make a great Bypass Cap.

Regards//Keith
 
ByPass Cap Phase II

I took counsel from the forum and I soldered WIMA 0.01 μf 63 volt film capacitors to the Blackgate electrolytic capacitors. I tried to connect the two capacitors as close to the bodies of each other as possible. These WIMA caps I had purchased to bypass power caps in a tweaked CD player a few years ago.

This WIMA cap is about 3/8th inches square. This is about three times the width of the Blackgate. Thus, the bypass cap is bigger than the cap being bypassed. Trying to connect the Flourinert or Russian Teflon closer is a loosing battle. The two caps are nearly 3-inches long and the leads would have to be at a minimum 1.5-inches each. But, the tests must go on.

This combination - Blackgate and WIMA film are far superior to the Blackgate alone or any of the 0.1 μf bypass caps. There is a level of detail that is squeezed out of the recordings with this combination that exceeds any previous Blackgate or combo-Blackgate tests. Overall, the Blackgate alone sounds as if it were playing from behind a curtain. The WIMA
. bypass cap pulls that curtain back.

The leading edge/note of percussion sounds "crisp". Bass seems "cleaner" not as loose/flabby. I am grasping for words to trying to convey what I am hearing. There seems to be a little more bass presence/authority. This is pretty much what I heard when I used the caps in the tweaked CD player. The Acoustic guitar sounds as if I could place my hand on the body.

There is definitely a greater sense of air around cymbals, violins, tambourines, etc. This yields a greater sense of life-likeness. There is absolutely no sibilance on female vocals. Brass instruments have a metallic "ring" to them.

The sound stage seems some what wider. The performers are more clearly localized across the soundstage. There seems to be a greater contribution of the sound from the music venue with this setup. Just listen to Mark O'Connor and Jane Monheit on the Hot Swing Trio CD. Listening to this performance gives me goose bumps. You can clearly hear the interaction of the notes and the recording location.

I played a number of recordings with solo violins for this test. I had the good fortune of hearing an excellent solo violin played this morning. This gave me a chance to concentrate on the tones of the live violin and then trying to listen for aberrations of those tones in recordings played for this test. The Blackgate alone was not as lifelike as the Wima bypass. This combination approaches the sound I heard this morning.

I would say that this particular combination is a winner. Although I did not bypass with a silver mica, I have to say, Radian is onto something!
 
Hi Dave,

I am glad to see you back! The VR caps for bypassing I was referring to are the Vishay-Roederstein caps but not the MKT 1822s that Dweekie recommended. The MKP 1837s have an amaing reputation for exactly this (bypassing).

luvduhill has a Mini-Group Buy for these right now and I ordered a bunch of 4 different values. If I can get these sooner than later, I will send you a pair at the 0.01uF value for you to test! Like I said in my last post, the three values I keep seeing are 10%, 1% and 0.5%. It seems the 0.5% is what is giving your amp the awakening!

Do a little research on these and their reputation. You might order some too! From what I have been reading, Polypropylenes might add more or less (which ever sounds better) than silver micas. And it seems people, when they try these rave the most!

When you said you got "goosebumps" from the experience of the way it sounded, That is my quest! It can't be described or explained but is like a drug!

Try some poorly produced CDs and see if this is more forgiving than DC Coupling and will allow you to enjoy that percentage of your CD collection too. That is the other half of this test! The best Mod is one that makes everything sound better and enjoyable and accurate.

I hope all is well!

Regards//Keith
 
Ex-Moderator
Joined 2005
KP11520 said:
The best Mod is one that makes everything sound better and enjoyable and accurate.

Then get rid of the cap all together... period! A wire has less "distortion" than a cap no matter how you look at it. Regardless, you can tune the sound to your taste using coupling caps. Just don't expect such an enormous difference in the sound. It's like splitting hairs and getting the focus just right versus capturing an action shot with slow film.
 
Hi Dave,

actually, the best combination I tried was a Siemens Sikorel 200uf with black gate and the silver mica bypass. That was the most spacious, lifelike and dynamic sound I have heard from my system, but the turn on thump was so frightening that I settled on the combination without the Sikorel's.

I will try the MKP 1837 against the Siver Mica once I get my new Dac boards in. Unfortunately I have only the 0,1uf ones.

It is very interesting that the value of the Silver Mica I used is even way below the 0.01uf you have used. I might have to try the 0.01uf and see if it sounds better.


Brian, you replied to a post from Soundcheck with these words.

BWRX said:

The Tripath input stage has a DC bias of about 2.5V, so if the DAC output has a DC bias of 2.5V you could attempt to DC couple the DAC output directly to the Tripath input without connecting the ground of the DAC to the T-amp biascap pin. You would need to make sure the bias voltages are very close or you will end up with a lot of DC offset voltage at the amp's outputs. I would not recommend trying this if you don't know what you're doing. I would recommend using a single coupling cap as you are currently doing because it is simple and takes care of coupling and filtering.

I had measured the DC offset of my Soundcard's dac and it was 2.55V.
Would this be close enough to directly couple the dac to my tripath
amp?

It would be great if the 2.55V DC offset of the AK4396 could be varied a bit by playing with any of the two supply voltages.

Greets,
Klaus
 
Hi,
I see you talking about bypassing the big slow caps with small fast caps.
Surely you have this the wrong way around.

The circuit should be arranged to give the small cap the best chance to do it's job i.e. passing all the high frequencies. This requires the small capacitor to be connected with the shortest (and straightest) tracks between it's two coupling points.

Then, bypass the highest quality fast cap with a slow big cap to bring back the lowest audio frequencies. The track lengths for the big slow cap are less important to it's performance and can be slightly longer. It can even be located offboard and connected via short wire links, (a 12mm diameter electrolytic would require 6mm long links if lying on it's side under the PCB).
 
AndrewT said:
Hi,
I see you talking about bypassing the big slow caps with small fast caps.
Surely you have this the wrong way around.

The circuit should be arranged to give the small cap the best chance to do it's job i.e. passing all the high frequencies. This requires the small capacitor to be connected with the shortest (and straightest) tracks between it's two coupling points.

Then, bypass the highest quality fast cap with a slow big cap to bring back the lowest audio frequencies. The track lengths for the big slow cap are less important to it's performance and can be slightly longer. It can even be located off board and connected via short wire links, (a 12mm diameter electrolytic would require 6mm long links if lying on it's side under the PCB).

Andrew,

Your post will give me the opportunity to re-employ my test bed for the bypass test. I will place the small cap (bypass) as close to the board as possible. Then, I will have the usual array of coupling caps on the test bed. that may be switched into the circuit. This, rather than taking the time to solder and unsolder will allow me to concentrate on the test rather than the mechanics of setting up the next test.

Thanks
 
I'm far from drawing conclusions on the issue of bypassing, but I've found it to be a helpful technique for improving average quality coupling caps.

I still believe that a single high quality cap tends to sound better on it's own.

It is worth noting that the small size of bypass caps often means that higher quality caps can be used: in my experience FKP and silver mica caps make good bypasses.

Since it's Christmas, here's a bargain for all you bypassers :)

Russian military 0.01uF silver micas
 
sharpi31 said:
I'm far from drawing conclusions on the issue of bypassing, but I've found it to be a helpful technique for improving average quality coupling caps.

I still believe that a single high quality cap tends to sound better on it's own.

It is worth noting that the small size of bypass caps often means that higher quality caps can be used: in my experience FKP and silver mica caps make good bypasses.

Could be that a single cap is better than bypassing, the problem is that I have not found that single cap yet.

But I have to say that I am not willing to by a V something cap that is more expensive than my gear(all diy).
The Auricap is not even in the same league then the Sikorel Blackgate Mica combo, but as I said I just don't know how to handle the turn on thump.

I would have never considered using an electrolytic cap for coupling, if it hadn't been for a well respected guy on a German forum claiming that his AlepX sounded best with a combination of a 220uf Panasonic FC, 4.7uf Blackgate N and 0.1uf Blackgate NX. He preferred it to a Munddorf Silver in Oil if I recall right.
He caused a big debate, because any experienced DIYer knows better, right?


The Blackgate Mica combo without the Sikorel is even better than the Auricap and I can happily live with this combo if I can not solve the turn on thump problem with the Sikorel.

But I agree with Brian, that no cap is the best cap.
That's why I want to be able to DC couple my dac to my amps.

Greets,
Klaus
 
Bypass Cap Phase III

For the past couple of days, I listened to the Blackgate closely bypassed with a 0.01 μf WIMA film cap.

I then switched in the 0.1 μf Flourinert cap in addition to the above. This Flourinert cap is a Russian Teflon Cap that has been augmented by Serengetiplains. Initially, it sounded if all the bass had been sucked away. I thought maybe the cap was drawing more "something" and that accounted for the loss of bass. After a couple of hours I noted that the bass was there, but it was not prominent or overwhelming.

After some eight additional hours of listening I can comfortably say that the overall presentation has been enhanced. Everything seems more balanced: bass, mids, highs. The sound stage seems to have gathered considerable depth; more so than anything else I have tested.

My perception of the sound being sucked out was not just my imagination. My wife claimed the stereo didn't sound as loud as it had earlier. This is true, but I know that quiet passages sound "much" quieter. I never alter the volume setting from test to test. There is a certain umph to bass. Vocals sound as if the vocalist is in the room and there is absolutely no sibilance.

This is a really listenable combination. No fatigue at all. Recordings I didn't particular care for before are more than tolerable. They are actually listenable. This comination is squeezing a certain "magic" out of the recordings.

I then switched to a silver mica 0.1 μf cap. The bass became more pronounced/louder. Otherwise, everything else seems the same as with the Flourinert.

The above are my initial impressions into the morass of bypassing input capacitors. I am encouraged by what I am hearing, and I am thinking through various other test that can be undertaken regarding bypassing.
 
Resistors and capacitors

As I understand it, the input cap and the input resistor form a filter that sets the 3 db level. Does anyone know of a good reason why the input and feedback resistors cannot be increased to 50k? This would then enable the use of a 1uf input cap to achieve the same 3db point I think. I am using a 1 uf cap at the moment and it sounds great, I just wondered if it would be of benefit.
If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated
Many thanks,
Rob
 
Re: Resistors and capacitors

robinhelen said:
As I understand it, the input cap and the input resistor form a filter that sets the 3 db level. Does anyone know of a good reason why the input and feedback resistors cannot be increased to 50k? This would then enable the use of a 1uf input cap to achieve the same 3db point I think. I am using a 1 uf cap at the moment and it sounds great, I just wondered if it would be of benefit.
If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated
Many thanks,
Rob

Increased noise perhaps?
 
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