robert1325 said:Give them a chance to burn in, you might start to like them more... They do sound a little unfocused and sludgy when first hooked up. I now also use them in my monica 2 usb dac
They do seem to be opening up a bit. I probably have about 40 hours on them. It sure would be great if they gain somewhat more transparency and control of the bass. I don't want to be constantly rolling caps and going subjecting myself to break-in although I might want to experiment with some bypass caps. I wonder what a v-cap bypass would do for the upper frequencies.
your experience is so different from mine. When I replaced them I immediatly noticed a huge improvement in soundstage depth , warmth , smoothness but also micro-detail. Not overdone in anyway. very natural like playing a vinyl record instead of a cd.
The same when I did this to the monica usb dac and it's blackgate output caps.
The same when I did this to the monica usb dac and it's blackgate output caps.
rajacat said:
They do seem to be opening up a bit. I probably have about 40 hours on them. It sure would be great if they gain somewhat more transparency and control of the bass. I don't want to be constantly rolling caps and going subjecting myself to break-in although I might want to experiment with some bypass caps. I wonder what a v-cap bypass would do for the upper frequencies.
Well....the Obbligatos. have opened up quite a bit and now I prefer them to the stock caps except in one aspect, bass response. As I continue the break-in process, I'm wondering if the bass will ever improve. It seems to lack detail, volume, speed and focus. I might have to look at some of my other components in the signal path to see if some simple mods will improve the bass. The stock caps did have decent bass response. Presently, the Obbs. really have a nice airy midrange and I don't have any complaints about the upper frequencies. The detail I'm getting is astounding with excellent separation and imaging. These PIO's are good at giving you a feeling of the venue by virtue of the sensitive retrieval of detail. Since I'm biamping the Omega Dipoles the separation is absolutely stellar. In my system, I don't regard the Obbs. as warm. Actually I prefer neutral and prefer components that aim to reproduce accurately what is on the media. Of course this is never really achievable but it is admirable goal.
well i haven't posted in a while since my trends blew up after modding it. I have a bone stock one now and have just received my Audiomagus BPS finally. Well I have to say it was worth the wait. I was running directly off of the battery before and it was good, but this is definitely better. Its still incredibly quiet, but its more dynamic and has a seemingly wider stage and deeper image. All in all worth the wait. I also like the ease of use and the fact that it as dual power outputs so I can power my Dac as well. For those of you waiting, sit tight its worth it.
Now back to the mods!
Now back to the mods!
recca, so what are they using for a capacitor setup in the new bps?
I am using 4 Nichicon 2200 uF electrolytics, 3 180 uF tantalum, and 1 5 uF film cap I picked up randomly at the local surplus shop. I also made a bank using 7 Nichicons and 2 film caps for another guy, and they both made the same changes, better extension (high and low), better quality bass, and better dynamics.
I have not got around to modding the Trends, but I have 1000 uF Blackgate n-series power caps, Jupiter input caps, and Caddock resistors. I have been deciding on what to do to re-case it... I like the idea of a wood chassis I think...
Dave
I am using 4 Nichicon 2200 uF electrolytics, 3 180 uF tantalum, and 1 5 uF film cap I picked up randomly at the local surplus shop. I also made a bank using 7 Nichicons and 2 film caps for another guy, and they both made the same changes, better extension (high and low), better quality bass, and better dynamics.
I have not got around to modding the Trends, but I have 1000 uF Blackgate n-series power caps, Jupiter input caps, and Caddock resistors. I have been deciding on what to do to re-case it... I like the idea of a wood chassis I think...
Dave
I popped it open to have a look and it looks like there are 2 2200uF bypassed by 2 other caps of unknown value for each output. Additionally it looks like a small inductor is inline with the caps. I'm not sure what value it is or what its for but its there.
I'd like to see how the new case works out. I wouldn't mind doing that too since I'm bypass the volume control now. I also use Jupiter Caps in my DAC and really like them. I'd love to use them as the input caps but they are just way too big for the stock case. I'll probably end up using the Mardis AuriCaps since they seem to be the best overall fit. I still have to scavenge the nude Vishays from my dead trends but i'm taking it one step at a time.
I'd like to see how the new case works out. I wouldn't mind doing that too since I'm bypass the volume control now. I also use Jupiter Caps in my DAC and really like them. I'd love to use them as the input caps but they are just way too big for the stock case. I'll probably end up using the Mardis AuriCaps since they seem to be the best overall fit. I still have to scavenge the nude Vishays from my dead trends but i'm taking it one step at a time.
Hm, thats interesting... I made the battery cap banks with very little information on how to figure out the amount and type of capacitance to use.
I wonder what the inductor is there for? Anyone have any theories?
Part of my decision to use a wood case is from a current thread on Audiocircle about enclosure materials and their effects on sound. There are both mechanical and electrical differences between using alum, steel, wood or other materials. Since I like the idea of using natural materials anyway I figure I'll give it a try... I'll try to find a pre-made wood box and line it with foil for some shielding.
I wonder what the inductor is there for? Anyone have any theories?
Part of my decision to use a wood case is from a current thread on Audiocircle about enclosure materials and their effects on sound. There are both mechanical and electrical differences between using alum, steel, wood or other materials. Since I like the idea of using natural materials anyway I figure I'll give it a try... I'll try to find a pre-made wood box and line it with foil for some shielding.
The inductor is there for better filtering. It makes for a simple LC filter. Class-D amps kick a lot of RF noise back onto the power rail. The inductor helps reduce that noise and prevent it getting into other devices that might be connected to the same power supply, for example a DAC or another amp.
If you are running just one device, it's probably not needed.
How do I know? I designed the power pack!
That is exactly what I found when I first tested them, and why I still like them. For midrange they would be my hands down choice. They do seem a bit soft in the bass, tho - so you may not want to use them there, or full range, if the bass is a big concern to you. Trade offs, trades offs....
Sorry you haven't been able to get your power supply. Don't know what's up with that.
If you are running just one device, it's probably not needed.
How do I know? I designed the power pack!
rajacat said:
That is exactly what I found when I first tested them, and why I still like them. For midrange they would be my hands down choice. They do seem a bit soft in the bass, tho - so you may not want to use them there, or full range, if the bass is a big concern to you. Trade offs, trades offs....
Sorry you haven't been able to get your power supply. Don't know what's up with that.
panomaniac said:The inductor is there for better filtering. It makes for a simple LC filter. Class-D amps kick a lot of RF noise back onto the power rail. The inductor helps reduce that noise and prevent it getting into other devices that might be connected to the same power supply, for example a DAC or another amp.
If you are running just one device, it's probably not needed.
How do I know? I designed the power pack!
That is exactly what I found when I first tested them, and why I still like them. For midrange they would be my hands down choice. They do seem a bit soft in the bass, tho - so you may not want to use them there, or full range, if the bass is a big concern to you. Trade offs, trades offs....
Sorry you haven't been able to get your power supply. Don't know what's up with that. [/QUOTE
They had my money for over 2 months and kept changing forward the shipping date. In the interim I decided to assemble my own battery supply which is probably better for a biamped system since I'll be able fit larger capacitance and each amp will have its' own battery.
Do the Obbligato copper cased film caps have noticeably more bass output than the PIOs'.? I really would like to have more bass output but not lose the sweet transparent midrange. Presently I adjusted the crossover on my ACI Titan sub upwards for some more bass output.
I waited a looooong time for my BPS too, but I think it was worth the wait. I'm sure you could make one for less and with more capacitance but I like the fit and finish of the piece and am overall very happy with it. I actually got a call yesterday saying there was a problem with a batch of them and that I'm going to get a replacement with a return shipping label for mine to go back next week. Odd chain of events to get it, but I'm definitely glad I waited.
This is a T-amp that hasn't generally been accused of being bass shy.
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/redwine8/302.html
Maybe I need to subject the Obbligato PIOs' to 100+ hours of burn-in before passing judgement on them.
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/redwine8/302.html
Maybe I need to subject the Obbligato PIOs' to 100+ hours of burn-in before passing judgement on them.
Where to buy the material to upgrade
HI:
I want to upgrade my new TA 10.1
I live in Spain so I would like to source the material as close as possible.
If I am not wrong I need:
2 x Cap Auricap 2.2 uF
2 X Cap Panasonic FM 2700 uF 16V
1 x Pot Panasonic EVJ
Does Anybody know where I could find such a products? Possibly in Europe?
About the cable Mogami 2368 console cable I do not understand what is this. Waht if:
I use a normal pure silver cable with teflon insulation and I add a shield taken out form a Satellite cable antenna will do (copper foil with or without the shield braid) ?
Thank you
Cosimo
HI:
I want to upgrade my new TA 10.1
I live in Spain so I would like to source the material as close as possible.
If I am not wrong I need:
2 x Cap Auricap 2.2 uF
2 X Cap Panasonic FM 2700 uF 16V
1 x Pot Panasonic EVJ
Does Anybody know where I could find such a products? Possibly in Europe?
About the cable Mogami 2368 console cable I do not understand what is this. Waht if:
I use a normal pure silver cable with teflon insulation and I add a shield taken out form a Satellite cable antenna will do (copper foil with or without the shield braid) ?
Thank you
Cosimo
Later trends TA 10.1 already have the larger power supply caps.
People read far, far too much into replacing the original input capacitors. Replacing them is not a drastic improvement.
I suggest a better 12V power supply with short thick cable soldered directly to the board. bypass the power switch and little coaxial connector.
The screen from satellite antenna cable will be ok. But only if It can be soldered to, most of the time the shield foil is aluminium and even plastic coated on one side.
75 ohm antenna cable is excellent for RCA cables.
People read far, far too much into replacing the original input capacitors. Replacing them is not a drastic improvement.
I suggest a better 12V power supply with short thick cable soldered directly to the board. bypass the power switch and little coaxial connector.
The screen from satellite antenna cable will be ok. But only if It can be soldered to, most of the time the shield foil is aluminium and even plastic coated on one side.
75 ohm antenna cable is excellent for RCA cables.
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