I think Panomaniac is the only one with both of these amps.
Probably best to ask him is the thread on the Lepai:-
Lepai T-Amp
Probably best to ask him is the thread on the Lepai:-
Lepai T-Amp
Hi,
For the skynet 8080 smps I need a resistor ( 5v load)
But I don't understand the values of these, say 1k5 or 6r2 , what does this mean?
I need about 10 ohms at 5 volt....
I'm thinking of ordering at partsconnexxion or DIyhifisupply... Not sure yet. I'm not able to find any dutch shops to get these.
Robert
For the skynet 8080 smps I need a resistor ( 5v load)
But I don't understand the values of these, say 1k5 or 6r2 , what does this mean?
I need about 10 ohms at 5 volt....
I'm thinking of ordering at partsconnexxion or DIyhifisupply... Not sure yet. I'm not able to find any dutch shops to get these.
Robert
Hi Robert.
These resistor values you quoted are just the standard short hand method of identifying values and replace a full stop that might be misinterpreted. K is for Kilo Ohm and r is for resistance, I assume m is used for mega Ohm......
For instance, 1k5 is a 1.5 kiloOhm resistor or 1500 Ohms.
6r2 is a 6.2 Ohm resistor.
HTH
Jon
These resistor values you quoted are just the standard short hand method of identifying values and replace a full stop that might be misinterpreted. K is for Kilo Ohm and r is for resistance, I assume m is used for mega Ohm......
For instance, 1k5 is a 1.5 kiloOhm resistor or 1500 Ohms.
6r2 is a 6.2 Ohm resistor.
HTH
Jon
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/trends/ta10_3.html
6 moons updated the review with more info. One thing I noticed was that they mentioned that the phase of the speakers was reversed within the tripath chipset. So switching the red and ground on the speakers will put it back to the correct polarity? I wonder if anyone can notice a difference, for better or worse.
Also, the battery mod seems really interesting, and I think I will test it out. I have been using an aftermarket power cable which had an impact on the sound.
6 moons updated the review with more info. One thing I noticed was that they mentioned that the phase of the speakers was reversed within the tripath chipset. So switching the red and ground on the speakers will put it back to the correct polarity? I wonder if anyone can notice a difference, for better or worse.
Also, the battery mod seems really interesting, and I think I will test it out. I have been using an aftermarket power cable which had an impact on the sound.
Sorry if I just missed some information in this thread or another one about the Trends TA-10 but I have some questions some off you might give me an answer to.
Does anyone know what the input impedance of the TA-10 is with and/or without volumepot ? I ask this because I only want to use it as mid/high amp and I have various high quality coupling caps lying around but they are all small values (from 0.18uF to 0.47uF)
Is the input capacitor only blocking a DC component from the outside or does the tripath chip also have some dc potential on it's input by itself ?
In other words, is the input cap really necesary when the amp is used with an AC coupled pre-amp ? Best cap is no cap after all.
I have just ordered two TA10.1 to experiment with in my active system for the mids and highs. At the moment the mids (Phy-HP HB21, open baffle) are powered by a Hiraga 20W le classe A and the highs (ESS AMT's) are powered with 300B SET amps, I'm very curious how the Trends stands up to those, I'll let you know. I mainly ordered because they where cheap and I want to see if there is some benefit in my system when the mids and highs are powered from the same type of amp, plus it's a nice way to see what class T is capable off.
Does anyone have any experience with EMI/RFI shielding of the TA10. I have one spare Stillpoints ERS sheet lying around wich could be used for a nice tweak of the TA10 I guess, just have to try. Anyone else used those ?
Does anyone know what the input impedance of the TA-10 is with and/or without volumepot ? I ask this because I only want to use it as mid/high amp and I have various high quality coupling caps lying around but they are all small values (from 0.18uF to 0.47uF)
Is the input capacitor only blocking a DC component from the outside or does the tripath chip also have some dc potential on it's input by itself ?
In other words, is the input cap really necesary when the amp is used with an AC coupled pre-amp ? Best cap is no cap after all.
I have just ordered two TA10.1 to experiment with in my active system for the mids and highs. At the moment the mids (Phy-HP HB21, open baffle) are powered by a Hiraga 20W le classe A and the highs (ESS AMT's) are powered with 300B SET amps, I'm very curious how the Trends stands up to those, I'll let you know. I mainly ordered because they where cheap and I want to see if there is some benefit in my system when the mids and highs are powered from the same type of amp, plus it's a nice way to see what class T is capable off.
Does anyone have any experience with EMI/RFI shielding of the TA10. I have one spare Stillpoints ERS sheet lying around wich could be used for a nice tweak of the TA10 I guess, just have to try. Anyone else used those ?
I know about the bass roll-off but as I have said I will only use is as mid/high amp. Mids start at 120Hz with 24db/oct highpass, highs start at 3500Hz with 60dB/oct crossover.
Anyways from your answer it seems to be wise to keep the input caps. The Bennic seem to perform quite well but I was just wondering if it could be for the better to use some Mundorf Extreme cap, Jensen paper in oil or for the highs even some silver mica caps in there. just a thought.
Anyways from your answer it seems to be wise to keep the input caps. The Bennic seem to perform quite well but I was just wondering if it could be for the better to use some Mundorf Extreme cap, Jensen paper in oil or for the highs even some silver mica caps in there. just a thought.
Just received my TA10.1's this afternoon. Boy they look cute and a lot smaller than I thought they would be. Build quality is very solid, very nice. The power supply however looks and feels like a very cheap variant on of a typical laptop power supplly. Tommorow I'm gonna try them out in my system, they are burning in on the testbench at the moment.
Well I just couldn't resist to fire one up to the mids instead of the Hiraga 20W le classe A. Wow difeerence is night and they but not for the better of it. I hope this thingie has to do some time playing in because after listening for just 15 minutes to them now they are very dissapointing in every area compared to the Hiraga. All the "flesh and blood" is gone in the music, very flat, compressed, lifeless, muddy low-mids etc. Have to do some serious burning in and tweaking I guess, so no real conclusion so far. I will let it play for a while and will see what a battery can do it. I will report back later after some tweaking and freaking.
Sjef: Let us know how it goes.
The Hiraga Class-A is going to be just about impossible to beat as a solid state amp. It remains one of best SS amps I've ever heard.
I built a few back in the late 80s and visited the production line in Paris many times. A wonderfull amp indeed. More than twice as powerful as the TA-10, and just "slightly" larger.
Do you have the production model Hiraga/Lectron or was it built from the kit?
The Hiraga Class-A is going to be just about impossible to beat as a solid state amp. It remains one of best SS amps I've ever heard.
I built a few back in the late 80s and visited the production line in Paris many times. A wonderfull amp indeed. More than twice as powerful as the TA-10, and just "slightly" larger.
Do you have the production model Hiraga/Lectron or was it built from the kit?
No I have build mine myself about 12 years ago and it's still working perfect. Never had any problems with it. I have build it with the original pcb layout and bought the original transistors from a local dump store. The guy at the dumpstore was so nice that he let me select all the transistors from a large batch of several hundreds. took me two days and a lot of coffee at the shop at that time but I managed to get perfect matches. Power supply is done by a 160VA trannie on each channel with 20 spraque 10.000 uF/40V elco's on each channel. It's a nice amp indeed. It spend a couple of years in the closet though, but after matching and tweaking with the Phy-HP's it was still the best sounding amp on those. On other speaker I prefered the 300B SET or my ECL82pp amp, just a matter of system matching. But I still have the feeling something can improve. Bought the Trends just for fun though and out of curiousity and I will give them a fair chance. Gonna try the second one on the highs as well tommorow, they're gonna replace my 300B SET's.
Can anyone tell me how long thes little amps take to fully burn in ?
Can anyone tell me how long thes little amps take to fully burn in ?
Any quality control issues? Check the attached pictures out.
I received my TA- 10.1 yesterday and it sounds pretty good considering the innards look like they have been to Iraq. The inductors are bent over at odd angles and one of the unknown type input caps looks pretty banged up. These caps have no manufacturer identification that I can detect, don't appear to be Benic's, which is a little annoying. The power caps are Sanyo's.
The Blue LED has the apparent brightness of a nuclear detonation, can it be dimmed with a resistor?
I received my TA- 10.1 yesterday and it sounds pretty good considering the innards look like they have been to Iraq. The inductors are bent over at odd angles and one of the unknown type input caps looks pretty banged up. These caps have no manufacturer identification that I can detect, don't appear to be Benic's, which is a little annoying. The power caps are Sanyo's.
The Blue LED has the apparent brightness of a nuclear detonation, can it be dimmed with a resistor?
As far as I can tell there's nothing wrong with the build quality. Yes the inductors where a little bit bend over but I see that in lots of factory made equipment so it doesn't worry me a bit. Offcoarse I bend them back to straight but pure for visual reasons. The input caps are Bennics an the power caps are 1500uF Sanyo's just as expected. Didn't realize the units where so small, I have some 3,3uF Mundorf Extreme caps lying around but they will never ever fit in this small case, too bad.
The internals is known not to be the best of workmanship, I had had the same problems, bent inductors, horrible solder joints, solder balls and splashes everywhere, took me a good 2 hours to clean and touch up everything up to my standards. I have communicated with David from Trends to incorporate the IPC-A-610-D Class 2 workmanship standards, he wasn't very receptive to the idea. So far I haven't been happy with any audio equipment manufacturer's workmanship so far, its funny that audio gear being electronics, but none have put in place any standards that is usually practiced by electronic products manufacturers, maybe the audio gear industry practices alchemy ...LoL
I looked at the picture on 6moons and it looks similiar to mine with the inductors all askew. I don't want to be too picky given the cost and sound quality of this little beast, however it would seem no more difficult to put the inductors in straight .
I'm still mystified by the input caps. The colour is the same as the Bennic's, but the only printing is 2.2uf +- 5%, 250v 0107, and above all of that is "150 M"(the "M" has a slash through it).
I'm still mystified by the input caps. The colour is the same as the Bennic's, but the only printing is 2.2uf +- 5%, 250v 0107, and above all of that is "150 M"(the "M" has a slash through it).
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