Transmission line speakers I have never seen before. Need help to figure every thing out

diyAudio Moderator
Joined 2008
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Red/Black is amp in.
Purple ST+
Pink T+
Green M+
Brown W+
Blue/White/Grey/Yellow -

In addition to this, polarities should be considered. As a starting point, perhaps consider reversing the mid.. but spend some time listening before deciding.
 
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Pics

IMG_20240513_144848.jpg
 
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Quick er to write

1715614686981.png


But not quicker to read as an attachment. Please type directly into your post.

I would be inclined to remove all the wires apart from the bundle of coloured wires soldered to the circuit board. Then I would extend each of those coloured wires to its appropriate location as indicated in post #42. You will require to identify the positive terminal (usually marked red or with a + sign) on each driver. Further modifications may be necessary upon actually listening to the rewired speakers.

P.S. To avoid confusion, I suggest you refer to the drivers by their initial letters as follows:

ST (super tweeter)
T (tweeter)
M (midrange)
W (woofer)
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
Not to make too much of a finer point if it, but where is the source of a Pro9TL MK1 and MK2 distinction?

The B110/T27 design was published in HFNR&R, not making any reference to the PRO9 name, whereas to my best of knowledge the "real" PRO9TL, bearing that title, was published in Practical Hifi.

Both plans posted in post #8.

It is true that the line with the B110/T27 did not have the Pro9TL name attached to the article. But the designs are so close you have toconsider it the prototype. And if the XOis good likely the "KEF” better of the “Peerless" version..

dave
 
This is why I collect vintage. My brother has sll Naim, its nice but the £3000 speakers he had are less than £500. To be honest there is nothing to them that warrants the £3000 price tag. Technology has improved but for who? The listener or the sales waffle you hear promoting their new awsum products!

Hifi that exists naw after 40/50 years and sounding great is what gets me going, and I have a few. Nothing compares only trying to imitate and introduce "the new and improved" mk2 versions. I've got or had them and will never sell. .
 
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Both plans posted in post #8.

It is true that the line with the B110/T27 did not have the Pro9TL name attached to the article. But the designs are so close you have toconsider it the prototype. And if the XOis good likely the "KEF” better of the “Peerless" version..

dave
Which is this one that I have

IMG_20240512_211227_1.jpg
 
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This is why I collect vintage. My brother has sll Naim, its nice but the £3000 speakers he had are less than £500. To be honest there is nothing to them that warrants the £3000 price tag. Technology has improved but for who? The listener or the sales waffle you hear promoting their new awsum products!

Hifi that exists naw after 40/50 years and sounding great is what gets me going, and I have a few. Nothing compares only trying to imitate and introduce "the new and improved" mk2 versions. I've got or had them and will never sell. .
Its like to me a Jaguar E type, Citrion DS, Maclaren F1 etc..There is new and modern but not the 1st time got it right types..
 
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But not quicker to read as an attachment. Please type directly into your post.

I would be inclined to remove all the wires apart from the bundle of coloured wires soldered to the circuit board. Then I would extend each of those coloured wires to its appropriate location as indicated in post #42. You will require to identify the positive terminal (usually marked red or with a + sign) on each driver. Further modifications may be necessary upon actually listening to the rewired speakers.

P.S. To avoid confusion, I suggest you refer to the drivers by their initial letters as follows:

ST (super tweeter)
T (tweeter)
M (midrange)
W (woofer)
Should I ignore the wires that have been connected together up in the ST/T/M area, I believe there is 16ohm ST/4ohm T and 8ohm mid?