TPA3255 - all about DIY, Discussion, Design etc

Is there a way to have a second board use a primary board as a source? Primary board having a dedicated Bluetooth/usb input section.

This would allow me to take full advantage of the 28v, 25A supply I have.
Would also be nice with the 2.1 arrangement, two subs, separate treble and bass controls for each driver.

These are the boards I was looking to use:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1753519730...8aTEub9ntxKlXkKu0gb2NxHimf|tkp:Bk9SR7iixtbOYQ
 
i added the pffb circuit to the board of aiyima A07 and changed some more components
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i added the pffb circuit to the board of aiyima A07 and changed some more components
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May you tell me the ceramic cap's value in your back board (the green,blue and smd) ? BTW its amazing you can put the inductor and wima in those tiny little space, A07 board is more difficult to mod than A04 because it only had 2.5mm hole option for input caps (A04 had 2.5-5mm hole).I have to soldered the wima legs with some wire and put resin putty on it so it wont loose when i soldered to board.
 
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A messy mods.....still wonder how trungdtmc place it so beautifully. So far so good,nothing damage and my amp still singing....next mods is to replace 30k resistor with 10k to raised the frequency of the modulator from 450 kHz to 600 kHz like TPA3251 and put inductor in 12v tpa3255's power supply...but my hand not steady enough to soldering a smd component......well maybe later, just enjoyed my hard work so far and put an action movie to test this baby!
 

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All
May you tell me the ceramic cap's value in your back board (the green,blue and smd) ? BTW its amazing you can put the inductor and wima in those tiny little space, A07 board is more difficult to mod than A04 because it only had 2.5mm hole option for input caps (A04 had 2.5-5mm hole).I have to soldered the wima legs with some wire and put resin putty on it so it wont loose when i soldered to board.
Green and blue caps are np0 104 but different voltage value. Ceramics are 47uf
Yes, i must soldered leg with longer wire and curved it, rotated it 90 degree
 
Ai
A messy mods.....still wonder how trungdtmc place it so beautifully. So far so good,nothing damage and my amp still singing....next mods is to replace 30k resistor with 10k to raised the frequency of the modulator from 450 kHz to 600 kHz like TPA3251 and put inductor in 12v tpa3255's power supply...but my hand not steady enough to soldering a smd component......well maybe later, just enjoyed my hard work so far and put an action movie to test this baby!
aiyima had already set A07 run at 600khz, you dont need resolderd it
 
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Woke up this am turned in my Amp and smoke fest. Apparently the voltage regulator I believe it is blew up. It seems this is a common failure? This was a 40 dollar TPA3355 Shuin Yuan look alike. I have another board with a good one of these off an scrapped Aiyima A07 board but I can’t for the life of me unsolder it. Anyone able to remove and replace these?
 

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Woke up this am turned in my Amp and smoke fest. Apparently the voltage regulator I believe it is blew up. It seems this is a common failure? This was a 40 dollar TPA3355 Shuin Yuan look alike. I have another board with a good one of these off an scrapped Aiyima A07 board but I can’t for the life of me unsolder it. Anyone able to remove and replace these?
xl7015e switching DC converter on cheap boards quite often blow op because of poor component quality. you can solder it with your hands, add more flux and tin to remove it
 
Hi All, I am a newbie to DIY and not really sure I can put together a stereo amp based on TPA3255 and a matching power supply with passive cooling and quality case. Can I put this together without soldering ?. I can do basic soldering but I am not an electrical engineer. I am considering TPA3255 with PFF from 3e audio 260-2-29A. Which power supply without a fan can provide the necessary input voltage and amps and costs the least?.
 
Well after finally getting my replacement TPA3255 board after my previous died a sudden death. The voltage reg just blew up on previous one. I went with a different model one supposedly newer. Installed it wired it all back up verified all connections. I power it up first time for a sec no speakers etc just to see if it’s safe. I then plug in all speakers RCA EFC. Power up the power supply first. It’s external 48v. I run that
Into a dc jack in back of case and then to a switch on chassis. Power on amp and poof same same regulator blows!! For the life of me
No clue what could of done this. I did notice what looks like maybe solder strand though on board. Here’s some pics. I’m so aggravated.
 

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If you blow more than one amp on the same power supply, it may be the problem. Use a scope to look for AC on the output.

I had quite some problems with those switch mode regulators, most that are marked as HV "high voltage" may be fake and only last up to 36-40V instead of the promised range. They blow up instandly and quite audible... If you are lucky the unregulated voltage did not go through and changing it is all you need. Use a lower voltage and a different PS for your first test!

PS This is how your board is advertised on eBay, only 40Volt!

"TPA3255 Audio Digital Amplifier High Power 315W + 150W DC24-40V Amplifier Board"

Then there is another board with this text:
Now It's the latest version , it is the product after the new model change in 2023, which has completely improved the common problem of high voltage protection. The use of 50V is also completely normal, and the use of materials is also more feverish.
 
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