Does that open the possibility to have two supply voltages, one for listening at low volumes and high details, and the other for partying?
Absolutely. Rail switching is a pretty common technique. Even better would be to make a power supply that sits at a 6V rest voltage and then varies the supply voltage according to the input so that the input gain is limited by exactly the same amount as the supply voltage is increased, thereby making sure that the actual output of the chip runs at the highest possible level for any given input. That would naturally require that the input gain is closely matched to the actual output capacity of the source device.
There are people working on making said solution work in practice *cough*
Absolutely. Rail switching is a pretty common technique. Even better would be to make a power supply that sits at a 6V rest voltage and then varies the supply voltage according to the input so that the input gain is limited by exactly the same amount as the supply voltage is increased, thereby making sure that the actual output of the chip runs at the highest possible level for any given input. That would naturally require that the input gain is closely matched to the actual output capacity of the source device.
There are people working on making said solution work in practice *cough*
That was the first thing I thought of, but quickly discarded it based on complexity and the need to tap some signal off the input signal.
Interesting.....
Care to elaborate a bit?
That was the first thing I thought of, but quickly discarded it based on complexity and the need to tap some signal off the input signal.
Interesting.....
Care to elaborate a bit?
Not really as it's almost impossibly complex to make a power supply that can adjust and stabilize rail voltage fast enough so the needed increased supply voltage is available at precisely the time the output needs it without the help of an advanced DSP that can inject a small delay and dynamically vary both the gain before the DSP itself and the rail voltage, and can calculate the exact timing of increasing and decreasing either taking into account the exact rise and fall times of both.
Much simpler to just have a switch that would mute the chip, switch to a higher rail voltage and then unmute the chip again. And in most cases that would also be a good solution, and it could also be achieved by an input monitor if you're willing to accept that the music would sometimes stop when it needs to switch between rail voltages.
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No. Switching between different battery connections means you cut off the power to the amp completely. Doing that you should switch off the amp, disconnect the inputs, switch to new battery connection, connect the inputs and switch on the amp again. In that order.
What I'm talking about is an adjustable output dc-dc converter that does not switch off the power to the amp completely at any point, however it's still required to mute the amp while the voltage stabilizes to a new level (it's only for a few milliseconds or less).
What I'm talking about is an adjustable output dc-dc converter that does not switch off the power to the amp completely at any point, however it's still required to mute the amp while the voltage stabilizes to a new level (it's only for a few milliseconds or less).
I wanted to try other input caps but then the discussion started on lowering the supply voltage. So i tried that first. Lowering the voltage of the Meanwell supply to 20V gave a small improvement. ( not as big as removing the pot meter ) I also used 12V supply but to me that is no improvement. ( i use old Philips alnico full range speakers )
It depends on what you are accustomed to. I started with 12v and had it for week before changing to 24v so that was an instantly obvious loss of quality. And speakers resolution means alot here indeed. 20v is fine for most uses and you are right there is no difference with 12v, its just enough for me as I got nice linear 12v psu.
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No, it functions as a normal hard knee limiter.
Also being a voltage divider I assume that the limited voltage is set on start up like the gain setting and don't change until shut down.
And lastly, you can't use plimit while using 1spw modulation which is the preferable option in my opinion.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/239338-mini-karlsonator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds.html
I am using my tpa3116d2 with my own speaker design based on the Karlaonator. The drivers are full range Vifa tc9fd run in parallel as 4 ohm load. They sound fantastic with this amp. Compared to a good class AB amp there is more clarity in the vocals and a more defined sound stage and imaging of individual instruments. An A/B switch will let you hear the difference immediately. I also think it sounds better than a stock Lepai TA2020+ amp.
However, the $10 Sure tpa3110d2 gives this amp the run for the money - just less power.
I have used other speakers too - all DIY designs with the Vifa - but different alignments: BLH, MLTL, sealed TL. They all sound better with the 3116.
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