Good prices on the battery and charger, may one inquire as to where you sourced those items?
The sale sites that have info on the electrical specifications usually show needing only a 2amp supply at 24VDC for the pre-built boards. Since these things are approaching or equal to 90 percent efficiency in operation, it's easy to imagine that a pair of small 12V batteries would last a decent amount of time. A couple of trickle chargers to charge them while you are asleep/working would be all that you needed. SLA type batteries are relatively safe, they will outgas a bit of hydrogen, but these things are nearly ubiquitous, they are used in all kinds of UPS, emergency lighting, etc. They are in your office, under your computer desk, in the hallways at school or work....I cannot see that if properly handled safety is a big risk.
John
Are you connecting both L-in and L+in of the board to ground or both L-in and L+in of the IC to ground?
Probably.
Without those two lines connected to ground the 3116 does not enter into the pbtl mode.
Good luck.
Interesting. The stereo board only comes with 1000uf for the chip PS and the TI datasheet uses something like 470(?). I didn't realize such large values were possible. Hmmmm.
Yes and I looked at the data sheet...very straightforward.
I would use different inductors than the one I originally used in the pix...they were starting to get warm.
I only tested it briefly with 8R speaker...sounded OK.
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It seems that what you want it that someone tells you exactly what to do... When people tells you to look at the datasheet its because the answer of how to do it, its there...
I cant try it becouse I dont have any single TPA3116 YJ board, what I have its the 2.1 board, but I want it like that so, I wont mess with it... but following the datasheet I would say that, what you have to do is:
INPUT
1- Desolder the 1uF caps that you have just at the front of the IC beside the pot.
2- Solder the closest to the IC solder mask of the two capacitor you took away together, and then to the 20K resistor that its on the left.
3- Use Rin pin for the + and G for the - or ground, dont connect anything to Lin,
What you do with this its connect the INPL and INNL pins to ground to make the IC going PBTL. That would be the input side... then you have to modify the whole output side...
OUTPUT
1- Solder the inside 220nf caps to the outside ones like in the pic.
2- Remove the components with a yellow cross.
3- conect to LOUT+ the + of the speaker and ROUT- to the - of the speaker.
I think that would work.... please correct me if Im wrong.
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thank you very much!!!
i´m a noob with all diy-audio-things, so any help is very appreciated.
i originally bought the tpa3116 board to run the two fr-horn-speakers i mentioned already in this thread.
i run that setup with batteries (i don´t know the english term for the accus i use) at 24V and 28Ah.
it is designed to be used for small outdoor reggae- and dub-sessions in the next summertime.
the sound is phenomenal so far, considering the effiicency and total cost of the setup.
the only thing that is not so good, is that my 8"-fr-drivers don´t like the lower frequencies at higher levels.
so i decided to build a bass-hybrid subwoofer with a 12"-driver.
no ambitions to try bass-orgies outdoors, just gathering some experience with taking stress away from my fr-horns.
i will use an active crossover that i have not soldered together yet and highpass-capacitor to provide at least a little bit of protection for my cheapo-sub-driver.
i had liked a test with the tpa3116-board without crapping it.
i´m interested if 100W would be enough to level the sub with the horns.
i have another class d amp board with something like 10W or 15W output power, which is enough for the horns in most cases
but its sound quality is much worse than the tpa3116´s.
maybe i should pbtl the 3116-board either way.
imo the advantages of a stereo-system are not so heavy.
and considering that my fr-drivers are 8-ohmers it could be useful to parallel them, since the datasheet tells me that the 3116 is more efficient at 4 ohms.
either way i´ll have to get another amp-board.
maybe someone can point me towards another class d amp that would fit my setup.
..or any other ideas?
i´m a noob with all diy-audio-things, so any help is very appreciated.
i originally bought the tpa3116 board to run the two fr-horn-speakers i mentioned already in this thread.
i run that setup with batteries (i don´t know the english term for the accus i use) at 24V and 28Ah.
it is designed to be used for small outdoor reggae- and dub-sessions in the next summertime.
the sound is phenomenal so far, considering the effiicency and total cost of the setup.
the only thing that is not so good, is that my 8"-fr-drivers don´t like the lower frequencies at higher levels.
so i decided to build a bass-hybrid subwoofer with a 12"-driver.
no ambitions to try bass-orgies outdoors, just gathering some experience with taking stress away from my fr-horns.
i will use an active crossover that i have not soldered together yet and highpass-capacitor to provide at least a little bit of protection for my cheapo-sub-driver.
i had liked a test with the tpa3116-board without crapping it.
i´m interested if 100W would be enough to level the sub with the horns.
i have another class d amp board with something like 10W or 15W output power, which is enough for the horns in most cases
but its sound quality is much worse than the tpa3116´s.
maybe i should pbtl the 3116-board either way.
imo the advantages of a stereo-system are not so heavy.
and considering that my fr-drivers are 8-ohmers it could be useful to parallel them, since the datasheet tells me that the 3116 is more efficient at 4 ohms.
either way i´ll have to get another amp-board.
maybe someone can point me towards another class d amp that would fit my setup.
..or any other ideas?
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Why dont you get the tpa3116 2.1 YJ board!?... I Think its the ideal for what you want.... There are other 2.1 boards in eBay like with lm3886 or tda7294 with more power, but If you Look for efficiency it will be better that you keep it in a class D amp...
I was looking at the 2.1 boards.
But i don't know if the implemented crossover will fit my speakers.
I think two seperated boards and an active crossover are better to level and provide more flexible setups.
Edit:
Is there a mod to place a poti on the 2.1 boards to make the crossover frequency adjustable?
This plus a subsonic filter would make those boards 300% better.
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Hi
I just bought a TPA3116 2.1 version from ebay.
Im thinking about building open baffle speakers and i wonder if i could drive two 12inch woofer from the subwoofer (100W) speakerout. The 12inch woofers is 92dB, Qts 1, Fs30.
So could i put two 12inch units on the sub output with these specs?
I will also use two Full range 6.5 inch unit with Qts 0.55, freq response 45-21500hz, 95dB effiency.
The full range is really top notch, paper cone, cast frame, etc. Looks like a coral speaker.
Is maybe the subwoofer out a little low in cutoff, is saw that the cut off is 70 or 100hz to meet my 6.5 fullrange units?
I just bought a TPA3116 2.1 version from ebay.
Im thinking about building open baffle speakers and i wonder if i could drive two 12inch woofer from the subwoofer (100W) speakerout. The 12inch woofers is 92dB, Qts 1, Fs30.
So could i put two 12inch units on the sub output with these specs?
I will also use two Full range 6.5 inch unit with Qts 0.55, freq response 45-21500hz, 95dB effiency.
The full range is really top notch, paper cone, cast frame, etc. Looks like a coral speaker.
Is maybe the subwoofer out a little low in cutoff, is saw that the cut off is 70 or 100hz to meet my 6.5 fullrange units?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://www.ladda-upp.se/bilder/ncdjeadpbfzivx/
Sorry if i may post in wrong thread, but why do you think about this diagram of the 6.5inch fullrange i was thinking to use on open baffle, do you think it will works nice with these specs:
QTS 0.696
SPL: 92dB
Vas: 27
Fo: 45
Revc: 5,600ohm
No: 0,493%
Qes: 0.896
Qms: 3.115
The open baffle will be single driver only, but i have 10inch subwoofer that i could use for extra bass. Do you have any good baffle size, i was thinking birch ply in 3-4cm width, 1m in height and around 40-50cm wide, and i was thinking to dress it with leather on the whole baffle for cosmetic, not real leather ofc.
appreciate your thoughts.
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That is a surprise.
May I ask your speaker sensitivity, how often do you listen and at what levels, usually?
The amp seems to spend less current than what I antecipated. I guesstimated 3-5 amperes based on the overcurrent limit and a normal output power, let`s say, 20 to 30 watts.
Either way, these are great news.
90db sens, 60-70db listening level. Regardless who is using 20-30 watts with these? If someone is using 20-30w that means they are either using speakers that are inefficient and/or they are listening at high levels. The former shouldn't really be using TPA amps anyway and the latter is unrealistic in everyday use. Even if you factor in dynamic peaks. If someone needs an amp to push a 85db or less 3way for their 30db dynamic range classical music collection at 102db/1m levels then these amps would not be for them anyway.
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