TPA3116D2 Amp

Sounds like it is tripping thermal shutdown or a cold solder joint on one of the main speaker out leads. Check solder joints on output pins. What is impedance of speakers? Low 2 ohm loads may do this - probably not your PS.

Tried reflowing all solder joints but still no luck, it still cuts out on dynamic passages :(
The second board i got was DOA.
No luck so far
 
Regarding disturbing other products: My Primare cd player has very heavy chasis, inside it the cdtransport is in a seperate metalbox again, which seemed excessive to me, but if I place the sure3110pcb with ferriet beads! directly on Primare cdplayer the cd several times auto-restarts in the middle of tracks:) This hasn't happened once when sure3110 is moved 40cm away from Primare cdplayer:) nor did it happen with my 3116's, so easy fix, but it does leave me having some concerns regarding emitance using the 3116 filterless, but maybe it is a different design or it has nothing to do with filter?

I am using ferrite inductors, Vishay, IHLP series, with my boards and when I lay the iPod nano close to the speakers some of the songs will terminate early.

When repositioning the nano further away those events do not occur.

Very interesting.
 
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Tried reflowing all solder joints but still no luck, it still cuts out on dynamic passages :(
The second board i got was DOA.
No luck so far

Sorry to hear of your bad luck. What board did you get - forgot. Did you check solder joints on legs of the tpa3116 chip? I had a bad solder joint on a speaker out and similar cutout happened on dynamic passage - I think ohmic heating through bad joint made it worse.

One other area is that your input cap may be bad - try swapping that out.
 
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Sometimes we spend too much time futzing with our gear and forget to just listen to the music. I plugged my tpa3116 (Dug's PCB) straight into my full range mini Karlsonators and listened to some Van Morrison - no DSP no XO no BSC just pure lossless flac file. It sounds great. This is a really nice sounding amp and nothing better than playing fullrange.
 
The ferrite beads I use with sure3110 do look a bit longer (1cm) than those most others use, so I wouldn't be very surprised if they are not really effective with tpa3110 LOL
if the label on the box they came from is correct, beads size are same, these are RI-4-10-2, datasheet even has graphs for all their beads :)https://www1.elfa.se/data1/wwwroot/assets/datasheets/05854005.pdf

So with these beads my cdplayer gets disturbed by tpa3110, restarting in the middle of track, only if the pcb is very close.
 
Sometimes we spend too much time futzing with our gear and forget to just listen to the music. I plugged my tpa3116 (Dug's PCB) straight into my full range mini Karlsonators and listened to some Van Morrison - no DSP no XO no BSC just pure lossless flac file. It sounds great. This is a really nice sounding amp and nothing better than playing fullrange.

Bravo!!!:up:

I keep reminding myself from time to time ;)

Regards,
 
I would like to see a ferrite bead data sheet with "impedance" vs current, like good inductor data sheets.

Then I would consider using them.

DUG,

Along the line of inductors, have you tried any toroid inductors for your output filter? If you had, do you like them (sound wise) better than those SMD ones? I am thinking of replacing the little black squares that came with the board.

Thanks!

Regards
 
Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced 50K pot to go with the YJ blue board? I'm currently using a 100K Alps blue from my spare parts box, which is probably not ideal as the majority of TPA3116 boards use 50K pots.

I just ordered two of these. Have not actually tried it myself. However, I have read quite a number of decent comments on it. I know that a small audio store at EBay based in UK (and one in Hong Kong) sells passive preamps based on these DACT type attenuators. The owner of the UK shop commented in another forum that he tried many different kinds of attenuators and found these to be the best choice (balancing between cost and quality).

Regards,
 
DUG,

Along the line of inductors, have you tried any toroid inductors for your output filter? If you had, do you like them (sound wise) better than those SMD ones? I am thinking of replacing the little black squares that came with the board.

Thanks!

Regards

I would only consider (now) using inductors that have the inductance vs current graph in the data sheet.

Wurth has some inductors that I happen have some samples of. :)

I may have time in the coming months to try them.
 
Anyone considering switching from an inductor based filter to ferrite bead type filter should read up on the modulation scheme used by their particular chip.

Type AD ("traditional") uses two switching signals 180 deg apart. If inductor/capacitive filtering is not used and ferrites are used instead then the speaker will see the full power of the switching frequency.

Type BD (option on some BTL outputs) has the speaker load seeing in-phase signals at the switching frequency. This lends itself to ferrite bead filtering. This is where you will see comments about short speaker leads.

Just sayin: do your research.

:)

TI has this:

Application Report
SLOA119A–April 2006–Revised January 2008
 
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Did anyone have success with eliminating the anti-pop or anti-bump on the red JY board on turn-on? I placed a capacitor from the mute pin to the ground on the power input and that seemed to work but isn't very pretty.

Yesterday I tried the method proposed on page 172, see image below and the ground point suggested, using a 10uf 50v capacitor and it didn't work. This is a way cleaner way to mod the board so hoping there's another solution like this.

Or rather how do I locate a ground point on the board closer to the mute pin?

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

399550d1392266748-tpa3116d2-amp-ground-dscf9812.jpg