Topping TP10 Mk3 and Topping TP20 impressons?

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maybe a lack of burn-in ??

I've had it since mid April and use it a lot, I'm pretty sure burn-in isn't the issue. I was happy when I got it, upgrading from an old Marantz SR6200 receiver, there was a revelation in detail. But compared to the Denon micro system amp it does sound bad musically, instruments don't sound as natural and "soundstage" is much smaller, a much less realistic/rounded sound

Matt
 
Hi there Matt,

I suggest you try the MKIII or a modified topping TA2020, i think you have the 2024, stock it carries just 220uF as rail caps, with is rediculesly little, seriously effecting the sound stage, witch isnt too wide anyway with the TA2024.

the other issue is the ouput coils, witch are made of unsuitable materials, i now use 3MHZ coils, they dont satureate so they dont eat the details in the sound.

these things vastly improve the sound.

Greetings,

Arjen Helder
 
current consumption

Hi there,

The current consumption is described in idle usage and peak consumption.

idle it uses about 100 mA so thats not much.

Peak currents are up to 3.5 A, the IC internally limits the current to that amount.

I suggest you get a MKIII if you can connect it yourself, it simply sounds better and works starting at 9 volts, so more suitable working from a battery.

for 7A you can listen atleast 7 hours, because the overall current is around 1 A the peaks are with the beat and that is not a constant load.

Greetings,

Arjen Helder
 
TP20 current draw

psykosonik said:
Can anyone tell me how many amps these little suckers draw? Looking at running it off a SLA 7Ah Battery.

Looking at buying Arjens Topping TP-20 w/Mods for the additional $10.

Cheers

Hey Psykosonik,

I have a modded TP20, I tried it on a 3 Amp switched mode supply and on my home built SLA supply:

With both I found idling @ about 80mA, with the switched mode, my multimeter went crazy when I went to full gain level with my poor little Tang Bands driven heavily into distortion :xeye: the multimeter was peaking at like 3 Amps
The SLA I think gives a much smoother sound, the multimeter this time peaked at about 2.5 amps. remember, this is above 'normal' listening levels, at my normal listening level it peaks at about 200mA

I would be interested to hear Arjen's input regarding this.

I am not a great lover of switched mode supplies, I might consider putting a 12v linear power supply together to compare the results.

Hope this helps...
 
Power consumption

The reson why i say i see 3.5A peaks is because these peaks are very short, with a multimeter you cannot measure them.

i measure that with a shunt resisitor on my oscilloscope.

if you connect a 4 Ohms resistor to the speaker output and you use a 1K sine wave your looking at about 1.8 A max. but thats a very different load then music!

i do agree that a torrodial transformer is always better than a SMPS, the only reson i do not sell those is because its very heavy, i cannot compete with local prices due to shipping cost.

Greetings,

Arjen Helder
 
Thanks Audi0,

The SLA I think gives a much smoother sound, the multimeter this time peaked at about 2.5 amps. remember, this is above 'normal' listening levels, at my normal listening level it peaks at about 200mA

Its hard to judge if these crackers have can produce enough noise in a outdoor enviroment. I don't want blazing loud but atleast heard amonst a small group around a camp fire.
 
What would it take to remove the potentiometer. I am still using my headphone amp's pre-out, and am always looking at two potentiometers.
I am considering removing the potentiometer and making a solid front plate to replace the TP10's with the recessed volume knob counterbore.

(Yes i may be influenced by the TA-10.2, that no longer has a volume knob)

The TP10 is considered an integrated amp, is there a pre-amp section i could bypass and feed the output of the pre-amp into the TP10 after that, to not double pre-amp, or do i have the wrong idea here?

Thanks,

Daniel
 
TP10

morfic said:
What would it take to remove the potentiometer. I am still using my headphone amp's pre-out, and am always looking at two potentiometers.
I am considering removing the potentiometer and making a solid front plate to replace the TP10's with the recessed volume knob counterbore.

(Yes i may be influenced by the TA-10.2, that no longer has a volume knob)

The TP10 is considered an integrated amp, is there a pre-amp section i could bypass and feed the output of the pre-amp into the TP10 after that, to not double pre-amp, or do i have the wrong idea here?

Thanks,

Daniel

Hi Daniel,

if you go back to page 2 of the thread there is a link to the TP10 circuit design:
http://nice.kaze.com/tp-10-mk2_08.pdf

I would try inputting your pre-amp signal direct into C16 / C17, there is no pre-amplification in the TP10.

cheers.. Steve
 
Thanks, i didn't remember it was there.
I guess the only thing i have to worry about now is measuring what really comes out of my Little Dot MkII pre-out, if it is 10V RMS, then going around the pot may be a really bad idea :)
Arjen already said the TA2024 fries over 3V on input.
I guess going in where you suggest with the right size resistor to keep things from going up in smoke would be what i want to do then.

Thanks,

Daniel
 
The unit is very nice, I doubt I could do much better with my £60. Only issue is with a couple tracks the treble is a bit too harsh (this is coming from a grado headphone fan!). I don't think this is helped by the S30's being a bit bright to begin with.
I'm gonna give my speakers a bit more a burn in and hopefully it'll tame it a bit.
 
Have you added some bigger caps to the 12V input?
Makes all the difference on my TP10 Mk3 on the BIC DV62Si, they seem a little bright, and by giving low end a little more extension, it sounds much more balanced.
Someone is selling different crossovers for my speakers, for $30 i may try them, if nothing else, then just to learn what all he changes aside form attenuating the tweeter.

Try some caps (I got 2x4800uF in TP10) on the 12V line, it might give you what's lacking right now.
 
I'm lazy and bought the pre-modded versions (didn't have any bits to hand either) opened it up at its got about 8000uf on the input.
I do think its a fantastic amp its just that with a few songs the vocals become a bit too sharp.

The crossover in my speakers is relatively simple design and I did have a look at maybe modifying it to attenuate the treble a bit but didn't get very far!
 
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