Peter Pan,
**Lot 10pcs Aluminum Heatsink Heat Sink with Screw Sets for TO-220 Transistor**. Found this on Ebay for a couple of greenbacks delivered.. Don't know how to do the linky thing but stick that in the search box and it'll come up, with others.
I guess you'll have to use some kind of heat resistant cement, but beyond that I don't know. Mr Google will know I expect..
**Lot 10pcs Aluminum Heatsink Heat Sink with Screw Sets for TO-220 Transistor**. Found this on Ebay for a couple of greenbacks delivered.. Don't know how to do the linky thing but stick that in the search box and it'll come up, with others.
I guess you'll have to use some kind of heat resistant cement, but beyond that I don't know. Mr Google will know I expect..
Peter Pan,
Now I think back, don't think I read any bad reviews on the 8610, more that the 8610 wasn't subjectively as good sounding as the Y148, so I cast all thoughts of trying it adrift. It may even have been yourself from whom I got that..
Yeah, bugger it, I'll probably grab a couple of those minimalist boards and have a crack...
If you do try Ebay for those heatsinks, I use the Australian site, the US site might use different search parameters, so try the Aus site if you have no luck with your site...
Now I think back, don't think I read any bad reviews on the 8610, more that the 8610 wasn't subjectively as good sounding as the Y148, so I cast all thoughts of trying it adrift. It may even have been yourself from whom I got that..
Yeah, bugger it, I'll probably grab a couple of those minimalist boards and have a crack...
If you do try Ebay for those heatsinks, I use the Australian site, the US site might use different search parameters, so try the Aus site if you have no luck with your site...
Hard to say if this is an improvement on the last PAM8610 board or not, but I'm buying a few to give it another try.
PAM8610 Digital Amplifier Board 2x15W Two Channel Stereo Class D Sale - Banggood.com
Up to now I've been using that Y148 board, mainly because of its built in limiting functionality. But the pre-amp board I've built since then has its own adjustable limiter/compressor, so maybe this PAM board won't be so bad. Stay tuned!
I guess when you last posted (Logostrikes) I didn't realize I was looking at the same chip as that older Red board.
PAM8610 Digital Amplifier Board 2x15W Two Channel Stereo Class D Sale - Banggood.com
Up to now I've been using that Y148 board, mainly because of its built in limiting functionality. But the pre-amp board I've built since then has its own adjustable limiter/compressor, so maybe this PAM board won't be so bad. Stay tuned!
I guess when you last posted (Logostrikes) I didn't realize I was looking at the same chip as that older Red board.Peter Pan,
**PAM8610 Digital Amplifier Board 2x15W Two Channel Stereo Class D Sale - Banggood.com**
Got one of those coming. Waiting for some bits for TDA7297, and a couple of EL34 tubes for my tube amp so I've got plenty going on. Haven't heard a TDA7297 yet, really looking forward to that. In the meantime my little 1x1watt Pam8403 is on amp duty. Doesn't sound bad through my Fostex TQWT speakers. Hardly hifi but pretty good all the same, and again, all part of the fun for loose change. My damned tinnitus forever denies me the best sound available, so for me, no point spending mega bucks on audio. This is part of the reason this hobby is so satisfying...
Cheers, Martin
**PAM8610 Digital Amplifier Board 2x15W Two Channel Stereo Class D Sale - Banggood.com**
Got one of those coming. Waiting for some bits for TDA7297, and a couple of EL34 tubes for my tube amp so I've got plenty going on. Haven't heard a TDA7297 yet, really looking forward to that. In the meantime my little 1x1watt Pam8403 is on amp duty. Doesn't sound bad through my Fostex TQWT speakers. Hardly hifi but pretty good all the same, and again, all part of the fun for loose change. My damned tinnitus forever denies me the best sound available, so for me, no point spending mega bucks on audio. This is part of the reason this hobby is so satisfying...
Cheers, Martin
There's also this new PAM8320 from Diodes Inc. (maker of the PAM line). Its seems well suited to folks like me that just want a MONO chip, for portable guitar amps. What i especially like is that its cheap, needs few parts, and is in a package with reasonably easy 50 mil spacing pins. I've ordered some samples to play with. Only think I'm not sure of, the underside has a heatsync area that I guess needs to bond to PCB copper, connected through vias to more substantial copper on the underside. I have no clue how to solder under a chip. ;-( But maybe I can just stick one of those self stick heat syncs to the top.
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/115/PAM8320-273748.pdf
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/115/PAM8320-273748.pdf
I bought a few, and so far I haven't gotten a single one of them to output anything. Let me know if you have better luck. There's not much to it... inputs, outputs, power, and a pair of pins labeled SW, which must mean switch, and so can only have 2 possible states (open or closed). Neither option makes a difference.
Mine hasn't arrived yet, no surprise there, I could walk to China and back quicker, but when it does it should a quick thing to get going, so I'll let you know. The SW is for switch as you said, and I'll leave mine untouched. I think they also call it a "Mute" switch.
Cheers, Martin
OK... make sure you put a hefty capacitor in the power input near the board. Should have known... this is the only board like this I've seen with no such cap. Without it, there's no stability and it thermally shuts down. With a nice filter cap, all is well. This board is hugely better then the last PAM8610 board (the red one). The base response is not as "nice" as the Y-148 board though. I haven't measured it precisely, but I can hear the difference. Maybe if we can trace out the circuit, a few simple input capacitor changes will improve it.
One other thing... and very telling! Looking closely at these PAM8320 boards, they obviously don't have any output filtering. That means lots of EMI, and probably a good deal of lost energy dissipated in the speaker. This may not be of great importance for DIY home projects. But what is interesting is that as I research the proper way to design LC filters for these kinds of amps, as described in this paper from TI...
http://www.ti.com/lit/an/sloa119b/sloa119b.pdf
Well it looks like you'd need 4 33uH inductors, and 4 1uF caps to do it right. Now if you head on over to Mouser, and pick out some nice little inductors, what you'll soon see is that these littel parts are sufficiently pricey, that you'll basically end up with a total cost of about $10 for the amplifier plus the filter parts. thats about what we were paying for those Y-148 boards. More interesting, now as I look closely at one of those Y-148 boards, I see everything that is missing from the the PAM boards. That is, the good size power supply filter cap I mentioned earlier, 4 conductors, and 4 capacitors for the class-D output filtering.
So now I'm in a little more of a quandary about these PAM boards, and I guess I've educated myself as to why the Y-148 boards have to be more expensive! Like i say, for home use on a not battery power supply (where efficiency is not top priority) it probably won't matter a lot. But for my case, where I'm considering this as part of a product for sale, and one that will be battery powered, I'll have to either go back to the Y-148 bds,or design a filter board add on for the PAM.
Funny how projects always seem to mushroom!
http://www.ti.com/lit/an/sloa119b/sloa119b.pdf
Well it looks like you'd need 4 33uH inductors, and 4 1uF caps to do it right. Now if you head on over to Mouser, and pick out some nice little inductors, what you'll soon see is that these littel parts are sufficiently pricey, that you'll basically end up with a total cost of about $10 for the amplifier plus the filter parts. thats about what we were paying for those Y-148 boards. More interesting, now as I look closely at one of those Y-148 boards, I see everything that is missing from the the PAM boards. That is, the good size power supply filter cap I mentioned earlier, 4 conductors, and 4 capacitors for the class-D output filtering.
So now I'm in a little more of a quandary about these PAM boards, and I guess I've educated myself as to why the Y-148 boards have to be more expensive! Like i say, for home use on a not battery power supply (where efficiency is not top priority) it probably won't matter a lot. But for my case, where I'm considering this as part of a product for sale, and one that will be battery powered, I'll have to either go back to the Y-148 bds,or design a filter board add on for the PAM.
Funny how projects always seem to mushroom!
