This is my first post!
OK I have serious questions but I thought I'd get the obligatory first post out of the way. So why is there no www.diyvideo.com anyway? Not that I'm complaining, this site is great.
OK I have serious questions but I thought I'd get the obligatory first post out of the way. So why is there no www.diyvideo.com anyway? Not that I'm complaining, this site is great.
Another N00b here, but I'm a veteran of many other non-related boards, so I know how it goes with the "USE THE SEARCH! 
" response.
Great site, I'm sure I'll learn a lot. I didn't even know this was possible until a couple days ago. Now it looks like a fun winter project. I'm going to play around with the idea for a while.
Thanks!
" response.Great site, I'm sure I'll learn a lot. I didn't even know this was possible until a couple days ago. Now it looks like a fun winter project. I'm going to play around with the idea for a while.
Thanks!
thanks
answered some of my less intelligent questions
i tried crt, while it does work, it's annoying + bulky.
NVkeystone works for not having to upside down the tv/monitor.
...but... video still plays the right way up.
oh well.
crt screens look washed out - dont bother.
lcd project is a great one.
thanks
answered some of my less intelligent questions
i tried crt, while it does work, it's annoying + bulky.
NVkeystone works for not having to upside down the tv/monitor.
...but... video still plays the right way up.
oh well.
crt screens look washed out - dont bother.
lcd project is a great one.
thanks
JUST TO CLARIFY
Correct me if I'm wrong, if a standalone DVD player is NOT progressive scan it is interlaced. If it is interlaced then the output frequency is 15.75 Khz if it is progressive scan it is 31.5 Khz, am I right so far ?. I want to use my standalone DVD player which is NOT progressive scan & plug it directly into my lcd monitor which apparently only accepts a 31.5 Khz signal. Therefore I need a line doubler to convert my rgb out from my DVD into a VGA signal. Is this right or am I miles off?
Correct me if I'm wrong, if a standalone DVD player is NOT progressive scan it is interlaced. If it is interlaced then the output frequency is 15.75 Khz if it is progressive scan it is 31.5 Khz, am I right so far ?. I want to use my standalone DVD player which is NOT progressive scan & plug it directly into my lcd monitor which apparently only accepts a 31.5 Khz signal. Therefore I need a line doubler to convert my rgb out from my DVD into a VGA signal. Is this right or am I miles off?
newbie question with laptop screens
where I work we have a bunch of dell laptops that arent bieng used
and a couple are sitting here not working however the lcd screens work great. they are dell lattitude cpx laptops.
The monitors inside are Hitachi TX36D86VC1CAB 14.1 inch lcd screens.
I took one apart just to see the screen and tried to dismantle it.
First off I have a controller board that I bought for 180 bukcs that was tested with thisd particular model.
The first one I opened was rather easy and I am able to get to the lcd
however I broke the backlight bulb. in the process.
Is this laptop screen useless or can I build this into a projector without it. I am looking at getting all the parts to build this into a projector.
Please let me know about the backlight and any other recomendations people have towards my project.
where I work we have a bunch of dell laptops that arent bieng used
and a couple are sitting here not working however the lcd screens work great. they are dell lattitude cpx laptops.
The monitors inside are Hitachi TX36D86VC1CAB 14.1 inch lcd screens.
I took one apart just to see the screen and tried to dismantle it.
First off I have a controller board that I bought for 180 bukcs that was tested with thisd particular model.
The first one I opened was rather easy and I am able to get to the lcd
however I broke the backlight bulb. in the process.
Is this laptop screen useless or can I build this into a projector without it. I am looking at getting all the parts to build this into a projector.
Please let me know about the backlight and any other recomendations people have towards my project.
Unfortunately both lcd screens are ruined. So you might as well just post me both them and the controller. I will dispose of them for you, free of charge...well, maybe a small charge then.
Nah just kidding.
The backlight is what is used to light the back of the lcd. It would never be powerful enough to be used in a diy projector. Your second lcd will be fine to use imho.
Nah just kidding.
The backlight is what is used to light the back of the lcd. It would never be powerful enough to be used in a diy projector. Your second lcd will be fine to use imho.
another question
I am so new at this
the first one is no good without the backlight?
is there a way to put that lcs sceen into one piece and use it for diy projector? I was offered a 10.4 inch SHarp xq22 lcd for projector use in trade for a 14.1 inch screen that i have.
Should I take it? its 1024X 768 XGA I believe I could be wrong but thats what i heard him say. It is already dismantled and comes with the controller board. I am thinkning about taking that and using a fresnel and a mirror and a metal halide bulb to build my project. Thanks for all your help on this project. I appreciate it
I have learned alot so far on your site. Just need to fill in the gaps.
I am so new at this
the first one is no good without the backlight?
is there a way to put that lcs sceen into one piece and use it for diy projector? I was offered a 10.4 inch SHarp xq22 lcd for projector use in trade for a 14.1 inch screen that i have.
Should I take it? its 1024X 768 XGA I believe I could be wrong but thats what i heard him say. It is already dismantled and comes with the controller board. I am thinkning about taking that and using a fresnel and a mirror and a metal halide bulb to build my project. Thanks for all your help on this project. I appreciate it
I have learned alot so far on your site. Just need to fill in the gaps.
I have another question
would this light source be ok?
its uses a metal halide bulb and has a reflector back.
and is 35,000 lumens 400 watt kit.
I am using a 10.4 inch sharp screen
a 12 X 12 fresnel
and a
Xerox/Fuji 325mm Focal Length Multi-Element Lens
would this work ok?
would this light source be ok?
its uses a metal halide bulb and has a reflector back.
and is 35,000 lumens 400 watt kit.
I am using a 10.4 inch sharp screen
a 12 X 12 fresnel
and a
Xerox/Fuji 325mm Focal Length Multi-Element Lens
would this work ok?
Attachments
would this light source be ok?
The light and ballast would probably be okay, but I doubt if you can get that reflector to work properly. You will probably get a bright, but uneven and blurry image with it.
If you want to use a parabolic reflector, it has to deliver a very uniform set of rays. This reflector won't do that: You will get a hot spot in the center from the direct light, and lots of rays that won't even hit the objective lens. A good reflector design would be parabolic in both dimensions, deliver a perfectly parallel beam of light (not spreading over distance), have some means of blocking the direct light from the bulb that is off-axis, and have a method of attenuating the on-axis direct light so it is only as bright as the reflected light. It would also have to be as wide as your LCD diagonal.
You could use the bulb and ballast, and replace the reflector with a spherical reflector and a condensor lens. Or you could just buy a Ushio UHI-S400DD from atlantalightbulbs.com and a 400 watt HPS ballast from goodmart.com. This is the best bulb I have found in terms of color temp and CRI, and the cheapest ballast that can run it.
The light and ballast would probably be okay, but I doubt if you can get that reflector to work properly. You will probably get a bright, but uneven and blurry image with it.
If you want to use a parabolic reflector, it has to deliver a very uniform set of rays. This reflector won't do that: You will get a hot spot in the center from the direct light, and lots of rays that won't even hit the objective lens. A good reflector design would be parabolic in both dimensions, deliver a perfectly parallel beam of light (not spreading over distance), have some means of blocking the direct light from the bulb that is off-axis, and have a method of attenuating the on-axis direct light so it is only as bright as the reflected light. It would also have to be as wide as your LCD diagonal.
You could use the bulb and ballast, and replace the reflector with a spherical reflector and a condensor lens. Or you could just buy a Ushio UHI-S400DD from atlantalightbulbs.com and a 400 watt HPS ballast from goodmart.com. This is the best bulb I have found in terms of color temp and CRI, and the cheapest ballast that can run it.
The Ushio bulb I mentioned is special (and not cheap at $37.95): It is an HPS retrofit, which means it works with an HPS ballast, capacitor, and ignitor. It is designed to replace orange HPS bulbs in an existing fixture. (I have read that it can also be used with a standard 400W MH ballast.) So they paid a lot of attention to the quality of the light. It is 5200 deg K and CRI=85 (or maybe 90). This is better than most MH bulbs. It also has a pretty small physical profile, which makes it easier to use in a projector with a spherical reflector. Here is a link:
http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=UHI-S400DDUSHIO
You run it with an S51 HPS ballast. goodmart has several, but this one is cheapest ($60.67), and includes brackets, cap, and ignitor: (it weighs about a ton )
http://www.goodmart.com/products/243289.htm
Or you can try it with a $53.34 MH ballast (at your own risk):
http://www.goodmart.com/products/433838.htm
goodmart will ship from Orange, CA very quickly, but atlantalightbulbs may take a while. Somebody wrote that they don't stock these bulbs and have to order them (ie. 10 days)
http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=UHI-S400DDUSHIO
You run it with an S51 HPS ballast. goodmart has several, but this one is cheapest ($60.67), and includes brackets, cap, and ignitor: (it weighs about a ton
)http://www.goodmart.com/products/243289.htm
Or you can try it with a $53.34 MH ballast (at your own risk):
http://www.goodmart.com/products/433838.htm
goodmart will ship from Orange, CA very quickly, but atlantalightbulbs may take a while. Somebody wrote that they don't stock these bulbs and have to order them (ie. 10 days)
Is Liesgang Trainer Portable OK?
Hey gang, great forum! Just found this after searching far and wide ...
I have searched the forums without success; hopefully someone here can help me.
I have a couple questions:
1) Is the Liesegang Portable 400 OHP useable? The specs look good enough; I am more concerned about the optical technology they use. See here - they use a mirror on the bottom and place the lamp up in the collector housing (I'm assuming). Would this be acceptable to use for a DIY project? I'm wondering specifically if this would reduce light transmission considerably, because the light would have to travel through the LCD not once but twice. Also, the mirror probably has some losses as well. I plan to use an LCD monitor for the panel. Would I see any distortion because of this optical arrangement?
2) The one I'm looking to buy has EU power inputs (240 Volts), but I am in the US (120 Volts). I have emailed Liesegang already, but who knows when they will respond ... Can I just use a step-down transformer, or is the bulb/ballast assy all have to be replaced?
3) Would the low projection surface be a huge pain (in terms of leaking light especially) or would it be a boon (mounting on the ceiling, for instance)? I would like to mount my OHP on the ceiling to get it out of the way. This setup seems ideal.
Please if anybody has some info, I would be grateful.
Hey gang, great forum! Just found this after searching far and wide ...
I have searched the forums without success; hopefully someone here can help me.
I have a couple questions:
1) Is the Liesegang Portable 400 OHP useable? The specs look good enough; I am more concerned about the optical technology they use. See here - they use a mirror on the bottom and place the lamp up in the collector housing (I'm assuming). Would this be acceptable to use for a DIY project? I'm wondering specifically if this would reduce light transmission considerably, because the light would have to travel through the LCD not once but twice. Also, the mirror probably has some losses as well. I plan to use an LCD monitor for the panel. Would I see any distortion because of this optical arrangement?
2) The one I'm looking to buy has EU power inputs (240 Volts), but I am in the US (120 Volts). I have emailed Liesegang already, but who knows when they will respond ... Can I just use a step-down transformer, or is the bulb/ballast assy all have to be replaced?
3) Would the low projection surface be a huge pain (in terms of leaking light especially) or would it be a boon (mounting on the ceiling, for instance)? I would like to mount my OHP on the ceiling to get it out of the way. This setup seems ideal.
Please if anybody has some info, I would be grateful.
OHP with mirror on the bottom
An LCD absorbs more than 80% of the light that goes through it, and that is with a bright white image. Real images absorb more, so I doubt you would want to do that twice! That would be less than 1/25 as bright as a transparency.
The other problem with this type of OHP is that the light going down through one color filter, may go through a different color filter on it's return path. Then it would be absorbed 100%.
Get a bottom lit OHP. That way you get a working projector right away. If you decide to change to a 15000 hour brighter metal halide bulb, then it is just a retrofit job. Or you could decide to put all the components in a nice looking box. Your choice.
2) 120 versus 240: You probably have 240 volt service in your house. It is just a matter of getting the right adapter plug to connect it to a European OHP. If not, then you would need a step-up transformer that could handle the required current. Much simpler to just get one at a yard sale here in the US! Or call some used business equipment stores in your area. LCD projectors have made these nearly obsolete, so you can find them cheap.
3) Remember seeing OHP images in school? When they are projected off-axis, you see keystoning: The top is usually bigger than the bottom. Doesn't matter much for trig problems, but it makes a lousey TV picture. If you mount a projector on the ceiling, it will need optics that can do keystone correction. Much simpler if you keep your projection on-axis. That means the center of the projection lens is at the same height as the center of your image. If you want to put the projector at the back of the room to get it out of the way, then you may need a long-through lens. For example, a lens with a focal length of 450-600 mm.
An LCD absorbs more than 80% of the light that goes through it, and that is with a bright white image. Real images absorb more, so I doubt you would want to do that twice! That would be less than 1/25 as bright as a transparency.
The other problem with this type of OHP is that the light going down through one color filter, may go through a different color filter on it's return path. Then it would be absorbed 100%.
Get a bottom lit OHP. That way you get a working projector right away. If you decide to change to a 15000 hour brighter metal halide bulb, then it is just a retrofit job. Or you could decide to put all the components in a nice looking box. Your choice.
2) 120 versus 240: You probably have 240 volt service in your house. It is just a matter of getting the right adapter plug to connect it to a European OHP. If not, then you would need a step-up transformer that could handle the required current. Much simpler to just get one at a yard sale here in the US! Or call some used business equipment stores in your area. LCD projectors have made these nearly obsolete, so you can find them cheap.
3) Remember seeing OHP images in school? When they are projected off-axis, you see keystoning: The top is usually bigger than the bottom. Doesn't matter much for trig problems, but it makes a lousey TV picture. If you mount a projector on the ceiling, it will need optics that can do keystone correction. Much simpler if you keep your projection on-axis. That means the center of the projection lens is at the same height as the center of your image. If you want to put the projector at the back of the room to get it out of the way, then you may need a long-through lens. For example, a lens with a focal length of 450-600 mm.
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