"Maybe we can suggest that the midrange be connected to an amp and played music unmounted wrapped in some eggcrate foam and dropped inside an Igloo cooler to abate the sound. Play it pretty loud by itself in a sealed box for a few days to speed up that break in period. Okay some bass heavy tracks full range. Just don’t exceed 2.5mm xmax."
Would it not help to physically move the cones of the midrange and woofers in and out with ones fingers several times to hasten the breakin process?
nash
Would it not help to physically move the cones of the midrange and woofers in and out with ones fingers several times to hasten the breakin process?
nash
I just hook up the TV to the stereo and let it go. I have also seen, but not tried, putting speaks together firing at each other, put one speaker out of phase, throw a heavy blanket over the whole thing and play music, tones, whatever until the feat is accomplished.
Russellc
This has been a LONG break in. I think mine are well done now. In the beginning there was the midrange thing, but that toned down in a day or two. Then the speaker was sounding pretty darn good. But, it kept improving....not only the midrange, but the bass also. The midrange gets more and more transparent and the bass stronger and stronger. Biggest surprise was the high end break in. Seemed subdued in the beginning, with sounds like steam or fat touching hot skillet. That also went away replaced by a nice shimmer and sheen.
Understood. I ran a fan and the dust buildup wasn't bad. Problem I've encountered with regular holesaw and mdc is that the teeth get plugged up with the fine dust. Give it a try and if it gives you problems, consider one like this: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Milwauk...MIhre714u_hAMVS0RHAR3ADALgEAQYAyABEgJv0PD_BwE
I love that this design appears to be so easily buildable for DIY'ers- even my amateur skills could knock out these frames in two weekends or so (not including finishing). On the question of other woofers, but just on the question of diameter, what was the thinking of 6.5" versus 8"? I think I read somewhere in this 46 page thread (apologies if my questions were covered already!) that keeping the slot depth down was a concern, or was that the slot volume, and is it simply "small relative to the woofer cone area" so that a scaled up slot for 8" woofers would work the same? Same question for slot width- say the woofers had shallower designs (or deeper)- what change in slot width and woofer spacing would be ideal? My leaning to 8" would be both because of parts interoperability (I have and expect to continue to have 8" woofers laying around to test in different projects), and to seek lower Fs's to the extent that lower extensions may be easier.
The slot loaded design has a slot depth that dictates the upper bandwidth frequency. This corresponds to the 1/4-wave cancellation frequency. A 6.5in woofer slot depth gives 450Hz and 8in woofer a lot depth is 350Hz. So the crossover with the midrange needs to change. It can work with PRV but that is pushing it just a bit lower where the distortion of the midrange will start to rise. But I think you are safe if you want to try 8in. You will need to redo the crossover yourself though.
Well... Things can change faster than you think... it happened that I will soon be able to buy a lot of ingredients, including the "bass unit" from a nice forum colleague
Then all that's missing are a few wooden parts. A carpenter makes these pieces in about 3 weeks.. wow