I wouldn't be concerned about the peak at 15Khz either...but this is how the chassis measures in the real world, in half space.
The measurement is imported from the german magazine HobbyHifi and can be trusted.
As with all (ALL) fullrange chassis you have a massive rise from bass levels to the mid and high regions...
Filling in the lows with a sub will help, the OB will most likely introduce a dip somewhere around 1kHz, and the peak at 3,4Khz should
be taken care of since your ear is most sensitive there.
The measurement is imported from the german magazine HobbyHifi and can be trusted.
As with all (ALL) fullrange chassis you have a massive rise from bass levels to the mid and high regions...
Filling in the lows with a sub will help, the OB will most likely introduce a dip somewhere around 1kHz, and the peak at 3,4Khz should
be taken care of since your ear is most sensitive there.
Attachments
Half space, that's mounted to a wall ?
That graph makes sense for what I think i hear, it's 10 db down from 1khz to 100hz.
Even on the floor, my speaker needed massive bass boost.....
If using 2 different speakers (flipping between a and b), it took me a bunch of loudness/bass knob fiddling to sound as full as my 12" 2-way (no baffle step).
I got tired always fighting to get the bass sound dialed in.
The manufacturer's graph is not even close.........wow
And definitely notch that peak, I agree.....
That graph makes sense for what I think i hear, it's 10 db down from 1khz to 100hz.
Even on the floor, my speaker needed massive bass boost.....
If using 2 different speakers (flipping between a and b), it took me a bunch of loudness/bass knob fiddling to sound as full as my 12" 2-way (no baffle step).
I got tired always fighting to get the bass sound dialed in.
The manufacturer's graph is not even close.........wow
And definitely notch that peak, I agree.....
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I always thought full space was off the ground in the middle of a field.
https://audiojudgement.com/speaker-spatial-loading/
https://audiojudgement.com/speaker-spatial-loading/
as far as i know it's the other way around.
Half space (2pi): radiation from an infitite baffle or a room boundary (wall).
Full space (4pi): full spherical radiation around the speaker. The speaker baffle dimension will define the transition to half space radiation at higher frequencies.
With open baffle and using a small baffle.
You will have a large Dipole peak.
So the peak at the top end is the least of your concern.
Off axis a 8" starts to drop quickly in highend
its not really a concern. Or easily fixed with a tweeter.
Simply use a wide notch to fix the dipole peak
and find a woofer that crosses over high to fix
the baffle step drop off from open baffle.
The wider the baffle , more easier to fix
and the large step will be lower in frequency
You will have a large Dipole peak.
So the peak at the top end is the least of your concern.
Off axis a 8" starts to drop quickly in highend
its not really a concern. Or easily fixed with a tweeter.
Simply use a wide notch to fix the dipole peak
and find a woofer that crosses over high to fix
the baffle step drop off from open baffle.
The wider the baffle , more easier to fix
and the large step will be lower in frequency
Difficult topic, I agree. I took the definition from VituixCAD. And I quote from the site mentioned by Norman...
"A particular example of half space loading is on a normal loudspeaker enclosure. Usually, the enclosure will be a rectangular shaped box with a front baffle, where the speakers are mounted. Since you position the speakers on a baffle, this creates a half space environment." (baffle step)
The dimensions of the baffle will create the baffle step, and you will always experience a drop of up to 6dB to the lows. VituixCAD has a handy diffraction tool where you can simulate the influence of baffle dimensions and position of the driver on the baffle. Works like a charm.
Decided to try a sealed enclosure first. Baffle side will be tilted back 15 degrees. 0.7 cu. ft. - F4 should be about 75 hz. where my servo sub can blend nicely. I went ahead and ordered one of those FR EQ boards. Maybe the sealed enclosure will help lift the midrange some. Wonder if one of those Schiit Audio Loki EQ units could fix any issues.....
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My suggestion is to build Tangband’s suggested enclosure first. It is a simple build and I assume that they tried it themselves:
https://www.tb-speaker.com/products/sug1-39#tab-466
https://www.tb-speaker.com/products/sug1-39#tab-466