The simplistic Salas low voltage shunt regulator

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Tham said:
Hi Salas/Iko,

Found the problem...forgot to test it with smoothing caps before the input to the shunt regulator. It is working well already powering my RIAA pre and the noise floor is lower compared to the linear regulator I used earlier.

I used common components for my built. Is there any particular component(s) in the circuit that I could change to make it even better?

Many thanks for the great help.

Yes, change the Zener capacitor and output capacitor to something like Panasonic FC. The smoothing ones you initially forgot, what are they?
 

iko

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Source for 2sk170

Guys, if you don't have a good source for the 2sk170bl, I would like to recommend the cheapest source I could find, which is Spencer
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1853069#post1853069

I got two shipments from him already, and many others in the forum did too, all well. The 2sk170 are a great current source that can be used in other circuits as well (like the salas phono stage which is excellent).
 
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Looks like you have a low regulation tough transformer, or your wall plug has somewhat more voltage than its designed for. It works safely as a whole amp for long enough to trust it for start I think.

How is Franky doing for sound by now it has burned a little? Are you happy with your investment in it?
 
sound good :D
shunt do detail and clean...!!!

what not work so good is the separation on psu , I add a separate trafo for driver , I thinks that better single but separate the trafo for channel ,(ok four trafo is the best) with only all separate diode/caps I dont have gain on sound stage.....

stealth diode+ kg on pw stage and byv27+Kg super t. on driver is too much soft ,need to put some bypass...

Salas as on driver out there is some mox 1,5w -4,5w ,I thinks the kiwane can be better , as works good in my scanspeak better than mox , alternative mills or ?
 
Nico,
Try substituting the BYW29s for the Stealth diodes, maybe change up the Kgs for F&Ts, Mundorfs, etc and perhaps see about changing the wire, too.
Sounds a bit crazy but it's quite surprising how these small things add up - an R-C-R-C arrangement, the simple Haggerman snubbers, good wire, cool diodes, reistors, etc
 
nicoch46 said:
the zone near zener end up to 40° ,the body is at 45°
AndrewT said:
what power is the Zener dissipating ref. maximum power rating?
Salas said:
300-400mW for a 1W part in nicoch case.
try reducing the current through the Zener to get dissipation down to ~100mW.
Or change the Zener to a 400mW type and reduce dissipation to ~50mW.
 
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Salas said:
We also need to thank James for his PCB efforts. :worship:
Here is his latest refinement for V1. He has included every possible nut n' bolt. LEDs CCS, Vbe CCS, positive / negative shunt, Zener socket for changing Vout in a sec, clean, compact, star layout. I did not see anything wrong by looking at it, you may have your second look too. James is more suitable to comment on the options and how to implement them I guess. He has also made a few V1s (not in WWII) and maybe he can convey his experiences and applications if he likes to.


James/Salas,

First off the layout of this board is stunningly elegant. Just fantastic! Is this compatible with the schematic in post 1, which I believe is V1 with the R6 Mod?

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