maybe a laser sensor grid in front of the speakers triggering a short 20kHz@120dB pulse will teach her?
cats - can't live with them, can't live without them!
good luck modifying its behavior.
I actually thought those vertical bars were attractive
I have some Anthony Gallo speakers with perforated sheet steel grills that work well for them and don't seem to hurt the response. My own DIY attempts at the same thing were not up to your standards but they were suitable for far field viewing. I could have done a much better job with the right tools You would need a jig to cut them square, a bending form, and a way to captivate the edges.
good luck modifying its behavior.
I actually thought those vertical bars were attractive
I have some Anthony Gallo speakers with perforated sheet steel grills that work well for them and don't seem to hurt the response. My own DIY attempts at the same thing were not up to your standards but they were suitable for far field viewing. I could have done a much better job with the right tools You would need a jig to cut them square, a bending form, and a way to captivate the edges.
I think the vertical bars can actually look quite good. But... if they would serve a true purpose, i"d have to
get them pretty tight, which makes them almost like strings on a guitar...
I think the Gryphon bars are some kind of rubber, but I couldn't find any info on them.
The rubber snares I could find were about 1.5 mm or larger.
Done in metal I could use (cycle) cables with 1 mm or less thickness. Or I could use some kind of rope.
But it would be about 2.15 meter in length, so it's got to be quite tight to not bow/bend when touched
about 1/3 or half way...
I also looked at the perforated sheets... but it would be quite a task to make it pretty and blend in.
My ideal: no grills...
get them pretty tight, which makes them almost like strings on a guitar...
I think the Gryphon bars are some kind of rubber, but I couldn't find any info on them.
The rubber snares I could find were about 1.5 mm or larger.
Done in metal I could use (cycle) cables with 1 mm or less thickness. Or I could use some kind of rope.
But it would be about 2.15 meter in length, so it's got to be quite tight to not bow/bend when touched
about 1/3 or half way...
I also looked at the perforated sheets... but it would be quite a task to make it pretty and blend in.
My ideal: no grills...
One thought that went trough my head more than once is the lips I proposed a while ago...
What if I did go with a sort of vanes between each speaker and add the bar grille.
Not quite like I pictured above, but it would keep the bars in place while also serve a function as a wave-guide of sorts...
It won't be cheap to create, when printed commercially. But if it serves a double purpose I just might be tempted...
I could stick on some sort of vilt on both sides to make it a somewhat softer boundary for high frequency waves...
Hmm, maybe I should draw up a simple example and ask @fluid very friendly if he could run one more sim for me.
What if I did go with a sort of vanes between each speaker and add the bar grille.
Not quite like I pictured above, but it would keep the bars in place while also serve a function as a wave-guide of sorts...
It won't be cheap to create, when printed commercially. But if it serves a double purpose I just might be tempted...
I could stick on some sort of vilt on both sides to make it a somewhat softer boundary for high frequency waves...
Hmm, maybe I should draw up a simple example and ask @fluid very friendly if he could run one more sim for me
.
Maybe this is silly, but why not make covers for the lower speakers and remove them when you play music?
Still don't know what to do about driver protection... part of me wants to forget about it, as our cat hasn't shown a renewed interest in the arrays since she tried to jump both arrays at least once. Then again, I would regret not doing anything if she damages just one of the 50 10F's... especially after grouping them so neatly in impedance groups.
What she does is jump up from the subwoofers with nails out and grabs hold of whatever the nails cling to. And that would be the edge of the surrounds or the surrounds itself.
Only one driver on each side has been affected, but that's still two drivers too much.
So I'm still dreaming up possible and workable solutions, the less intrusive the better. Trying to figure out what she'd be able to do with it.
What she does is jump up from the subwoofers with nails out and grabs hold of whatever the nails cling to. And that would be the edge of the surrounds or the surrounds itself.
Only one driver on each side has been affected, but that's still two drivers too much.
So I'm still dreaming up possible and workable solutions, the less intrusive the better. Trying to figure out what she'd be able to do with it.
In other news, about two weeks ago we had some storms out here. Due to that bad weather even my garage was flooded with water.
It wasn't much, but enough to cause us a head-ache. It made me re-think when to do the surgery on my arrays. The garage definitely
is a damp environment so I think it's best to operate during dry and sonny weather. If I don't, the damping materials might soak up enough
moisture that can't go anywhere after closing the speakers. Possibly creating future issues I don't want.
It probably means I'll have to be patent once more, as the Dutch weather isn't that reliable or predictable. But with any luck...
It wasn't much, but enough to cause us a head-ache. It made me re-think when to do the surgery on my arrays. The garage definitely
is a damp environment so I think it's best to operate during dry and sonny weather. If I don't, the damping materials might soak up enough
moisture that can't go anywhere after closing the speakers. Possibly creating future issues I don't want.
It probably means I'll have to be patent once more, as the Dutch weather isn't that reliable or predictable. But with any luck...
My Final ESL speakers have stators made of acrylic plates.
With the right sized holes this can be acoustically transparent.
The material can be colored and transparent to taste.
Could this be a solution?
It could be... just like the perforated material nc535 mentioned i guess...
The challenge for me is to figure out how to make it look the part as well as being acoustically transparent.
I'm still playing with the thought of having those 'fine' bars...
But even then there's lots to figure out, what materials, how to get them etc...
It's a length of at least 2.25 meter. 1 mm steel cable might work, with heat-shrink to make it appear black?
Or are there other easy options that I'm missing. I can make some printed parts to guide the strings in a few
places, make the top and bottom from steel... but how do I get a nice looking material for the bars themselves.
The example above seems like it's one really long string that is folded up and down (from pictures).
The challenge for me is to figure out how to make it look the part as well as being acoustically transparent.
I'm still playing with the thought of having those 'fine' bars...
But even then there's lots to figure out, what materials, how to get them etc...
It's a length of at least 2.25 meter. 1 mm steel cable might work, with heat-shrink to make it appear black?
Or are there other easy options that I'm missing. I can make some printed parts to guide the strings in a few
places, make the top and bottom from steel... but how do I get a nice looking material for the bars themselves.
The example above seems like it's one really long string that is folded up and down (from pictures).
you could just use black insulated copper wire.It could be... just like the perforated material nc535 mentioned i guess...
The challenge for me is to figure out how to make it look the part as well as being acoustically transparent.
I'm still playing with the thought of having those 'fine' bars...
View attachment 1031756
But even then there's lots to figure out, what materials, how to get them etc...
It's a length of at least 2.25 meter. 1 mm steel cable might work, with heat-shrink to make it appear black?
Or are there other easy options that I'm missing. I can make some printed parts to guide the strings in a few
places, make the top and bottom from steel... but how do I get a nice looking material for the bars themselves.
The example above seems like it's one really long string that is folded up and down (from pictures).
Some use this also for DIY ESL speakers:
The guy in the above example uses 2mm (total) wire and also 2mm spacing.
Tensioning the wires would be a challenge I assume..
That's why I came up with steel cable, available in 1 mm thickness...
I can put some force on that and it's slim... with heat-shrink it could look the part.
If I space it 5 mm it would be more than enough... I might need metal ends to
be able to withstand the tension...
https://www.kabeldirect.nl/krimpkous-zwart-1-6mm-0-8mm-rol-van-15-meter.html
https://ijzerwarenwebshop.nl/staald...mq391o6KCajwDDjpbdF3ziYBg7053wThoCVZsQAvD_BwE
I can put some force on that and it's slim... with heat-shrink it could look the part.
If I space it 5 mm it would be more than enough... I might need metal ends to
be able to withstand the tension...
https://www.kabeldirect.nl/krimpkous-zwart-1-6mm-0-8mm-rol-van-15-meter.html
https://ijzerwarenwebshop.nl/staald...mq391o6KCajwDDjpbdF3ziYBg7053wThoCVZsQAvD_BwE
A steel wire could resonate in the audible range?
The isolated copper wire will have a lower resonance frequency and is probably better damped.
True, and it does worry me. But I want thin and don't think copper would be strong enough in that case.
Plus coated with heat-shrink and possibly damped at a few places (or not to have lower base notes)...
I think Gryphon uses rubber....
Can try this: https://www.metaltis.nl/metskoord-1...9ELwTZP7-zQMAqOE4vFSMMORtxptlv4hoCqaMQAvD_BwE
I think this would be a bad idea...
https://www.paracord.nl/zwart-elast...hjRKBxSsgz1JDf2tmXACJKdv8m2WkcQxoCEsEQAvD_BwE
Plus coated with heat-shrink and possibly damped at a few places (or not to have lower base notes)...
I think Gryphon uses rubber....
Can try this: https://www.metaltis.nl/metskoord-1...9ELwTZP7-zQMAqOE4vFSMMORtxptlv4hoCqaMQAvD_BwE
I think this would be a bad idea...
https://www.paracord.nl/zwart-elast...hjRKBxSsgz1JDf2tmXACJKdv8m2WkcQxoCEsEQAvD_BwE