Chris: Thanks for the advice but I managed to create a Jig by cutting 5 30 degree blocks and clamping them plus a backer board (to place the piece to be cut up against) to the miter guide. I set the saw to 30 degrees as well and voila! I have 60 degrees. Worked like a charm. Had a kick back on the first go round, (lucky I wasn't standing infront of it) the 200 mile per hour board just missed me. 
Anyway, I have them all glued up and am now working out the CC and lips to mount the baffles to. I should have them running tomorrow. I will post then. Mother's day took it out of me. MY GF and I went to visit my mom, and my GF is a saint. She has the patience of Job. Goodnight all!
Anyway, I have them all glued up and am now working out the CC and lips to mount the baffles to. I should have them running tomorrow. I will post then. Mother's day took it out of me. MY GF and I went to visit my mom, and my GF is a saint. She has the patience of Job. Goodnight all!Banned
Joined 2002
jleaman said:
I'd suggest wait until you hear them with the modded 126's. With your mini-A's and silver interconnects, detail and extension though the top end shouldn't be a problem. Save the expensive ribbons for a mid/bass driver that really needs the help (e.g. WR125's)
Jason, et al: don't forget that any of these rear mouthed horns really need either a pair of corners or well executed reflectors for optimum low end weight and dynamics.
While there are some issues with soundstage "holography" due to side wall reflections in the as yet untreated new listening room, there's a huge improvement in the subjective quality and quantity of bass over the open plan upstairs space. ( at least 4 times the cubic volume)
ask Brent about that
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Harderror said:Chris: Thanks for the advice but I managed to create a Jig by cutting 5 30 degree blocks and clamping them plus a backer board (to place the piece to be cut up against) to the miter guide. I set the saw to 30 degrees as well and voila! I have 60 degrees. Worked like a charm. Had a kick back on the first go round, (lucky I wasn't standing infront of it) the 200 mile per hour board just missed me.
Since you may need to decrease the volume of the CC, you might want to cut some 2x4 or even 45 degree chamfered 4x4 material for solid blocking at the rear of the CC.
After some a short listening session Friday ( 2 hours), I decided to permanently reduce the CC, and open up the void even further. As you know, these aren't huge boxes; due to hatchet work (actually my trusty 30yr old hand saw) and bondo fill required to modify the box, no pictures 'til after another listen; if worthy, them some veneer, or at least a quick coat of flat black primer ( rat rod hi-fi at its best)
I created a 45 degree cut (both ends) board to block the void. I will fill with dampening material of some kind. This reduces (by my calcs) the volume of the CC to 1.4. I am thinking that it will need to be reduced even further so I am playing with ideas on how to do this. I will be listening for the first time this morning so...
Too much damping material will increase the effective volume of the CC.
To reduce the volume you want to fill with solid mass - wood, metal, 1 litre filled paint can (no kidding - that's the first thing Dave grabbed from the workshop )
Make sure to treat the cone material as well as the other driver tweaks noted:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=883158#post883158
not a subtle improvement on either the 126 or 127
To reduce the volume you want to fill with solid mass - wood, metal, 1 litre filled paint can (no kidding - that's the first thing Dave grabbed from the workshop )
Make sure to treat the cone material as well as the other driver tweaks noted:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=883158#post883158
not a subtle improvement on either the 126 or 127
jleaman said:
Jason, it sounded like you were asking about the ribbons.
If you mean the Fostex 126 mini-hybrids - ask Dave - he might still have them kicking around. But frankly they're sadly far behind the performance of either the modified Buschorn MKI or seriously lapped by the Frugelhorns.
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Ok, my Bass is severly thin. Any thhoughts? Compression chamber too big (1.6L). Not set right in the corner. Ok, one other question, since this is my first set of BLH's. If you don't have them in a corner will you experience zero low end? I put them in the corner and it improves but still feels a touchthin to me. I don't have enough corners for this! Ron, help me!
On a lighter note, I attached the why my GF is irritated with my hobbie picture. This is the middle of our living room right now. Yes, that's four, count em four sets of speakers. Hmm, I need the drivers for the Fonkens. This is not counting the set of 4 foot tall Polk's (100 lbs. a piece) around the TV. In the house now, we have 7 sets of speakers.
On a lighter note, I attached the why my GF is irritated with my hobbie picture. This is the middle of our living room right now. Yes, that's four, count em four sets of speakers. Hmm, I need the drivers for the Fonkens. This is not counting the set of 4 foot tall Polk's (100 lbs. a piece) around the TV. In the house now, we have 7 sets of speakers.
Attachments
chrisb said:
Chris, I was talking about the damping in the void, not the CC. I have no damping in there. I just need to ttry and figure out what volume I need in the CC. I need corners. They all have things in them. I can't wait for Ron or whomever to come up with the reflector for wall usage. I can manage that.
Harderror said:
They are corner horns. Out in the room as pictured they just won't work. To get any bass you need corners (or at least a wall with some of Ron's reflectors (i post his drawing here -- i can never find it on the web when i'm looking for it)).
And in the corners placement is critical. Moving things even a bit makes a difference, We have ours assymerically placed which works well. They will never go really low (Ron says 50 Hz is possible in a corner with the as yet upcoming reflector) but 60-70 Hz is probably more in keeping with the alphas. What there is thou can be really well defined with lots of finese.
dave
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planet10 said:
Thanks Dave! I put them in corners and have been futzing around with the placement this evening. Much better. How is your experiment coming? I am having reasonably good results with the 1.6 litres. Are you finding the same or do you have some other ideas about volume? I am going to cut some different size blocks tomorrow and try each one for about an hour each and see what comes of it. I will post the results.
How should I make the baffle? Any curvature to the face? As in lathed? Or flat stop sign style? I will build it tomorrrow if you post the info. Thanks Dave! You have been a great help! I might measure them but on the other hand, I am more interested in getting them to sound right, not to measure right.
Also, should I mount the driver on the baffle and attach that or should I have the baffle flush with the speaker? If I mount the driver on the baffle that will increase my cc as well, this is probably good.
Also, should I mount the driver on the baffle and attach that or should I have the baffle flush with the speaker? If I mount the driver on the baffle that will increase my cc as well, this is probably good.
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