Hi, Chris,
It is ok, the CD pickup is quite cheap in Malaysia and i had really learn a lot when the CDP start give me the problem since 2 months ago.....need to search the info up and down, ask many people.....
By the way, i'm starting to do some modification on my old audilab 8000A, had just replace all the e-cap in pre & power amp side with blackgate e-cap, the result is encouraging. Now, i'm not sure whether to replace the TL0702CP opa with BB OPA2604 is a good choice?
Besides, have you use any LCA component's film &f oil cap before? is it good as a upgrade replacement for EVOX MMK polyester cap?
It is ok, the CD pickup is quite cheap in Malaysia and i had really learn a lot when the CDP start give me the problem since 2 months ago.....need to search the info up and down, ask many people.....
By the way, i'm starting to do some modification on my old audilab 8000A, had just replace all the e-cap in pre & power amp side with blackgate e-cap, the result is encouraging. Now, i'm not sure whether to replace the TL0702CP opa with BB OPA2604 is a good choice?
Besides, have you use any LCA component's film &f oil cap before? is it good as a upgrade replacement for EVOX MMK polyester cap?
Hi windwss,
Keep in mind that certain families of capacitors are far more important than the brand name. I do not use oil caps. Do not use a capacitor that is much larger physically than the original.
All common sense things. Don't destroy your amp.
I don't know about the op amp, you can try it. Watch for oscillations, avoid sockets.
-Chris
Keep in mind that certain families of capacitors are far more important than the brand name. I do not use oil caps. Do not use a capacitor that is much larger physically than the original.
All common sense things. Don't destroy your amp.
I don't know about the op amp, you can try it. Watch for oscillations, avoid sockets.
-Chris
Sorry to drag an old topic up from the dead, but I've acquired another Denon DCM series player, and after a few days of owning it, it has also developed a problem. 
It's a Denon DCM-560 from 1994, and it sounds very good (Burr-Brown PCM1702 R-2R DAC). It was working well and without errors until a few days ago. I put in a disc that neared the 80-minute mark and during the last few tracks, the player began to introduce a static-like skipping noise over the top of the music. Then, when I switched to a new disc, I was unable to skip past the first track.
Luckily, the player seems to have no trouble reading the Table of Contents or playing the first track, just problems scanning. I'm assuming it's a sled lubrication problem... What do you guys think, and what sort of light grease could I use for lubrication (ex. 3-in-One white lithium grease)?
It's a Denon DCM-560 from 1994, and it sounds very good (Burr-Brown PCM1702 R-2R DAC). It was working well and without errors until a few days ago. I put in a disc that neared the 80-minute mark and during the last few tracks, the player began to introduce a static-like skipping noise over the top of the music. Then, when I switched to a new disc, I was unable to skip past the first track.
Luckily, the player seems to have no trouble reading the Table of Contents or playing the first track, just problems scanning. I'm assuming it's a sled lubrication problem... What do you guys think, and what sort of light grease could I use for lubrication (ex. 3-in-One white lithium grease)?
For whatever reason, the player is working again. I can seek to the end of long CDs without problems, at least for now.
I opened it up to take a look and thankfully, the player is extremely easy to service compared to the DCM-370.
However, I noticed that most of the grease on the laser sled seemed to have dried up. Would it improve reliability if I added more, or is the fact that it's working again reason to avoid making any changes?
I opened it up to take a look and thankfully, the player is extremely easy to service compared to the DCM-370.
However, I noticed that most of the grease on the laser sled seemed to have dried up. Would it improve reliability if I added more, or is the fact that it's working again reason to avoid making any changes?
infinitesymph said:For whatever reason, the player is working again. I can seek to the end of long CDs without problems, at least for now.
I opened it up to take a look and thankfully, the player is extremely easy to service compared to the DCM-370.
However, I noticed that most of the grease on the laser sled seemed to have dried up. Would it improve reliability if I added more, or is the fact that it's working again reason to avoid making any changes?
That to me sounds like your problem! Old dried up grease! I would clean as much of that old grease off as you can, carefully and relube with white lithium grease. Player will probably work like new again.
Zc
infinitesymph said:Sorry to drag an old topic up from the dead, but I've acquired another Denon DCM series player, and after a few days of owning it, it has also developed a problem.
It's a Denon DCM-560 from 1994, and it sounds very good (Burr-Brown PCM1702 R-2R DAC). It was working well and without errors until a few days ago. I put in a disc that neared the 80-minute mark and during the last few tracks, the player began to introduce a static-like skipping noise over the top of the music. Then, when I switched to a new disc, I was unable to skip past the first track.
Luckily, the player seems to have no trouble reading the Table of Contents or playing the first track, just problems scanning. I'm assuming it's a sled lubrication problem... What do you guys think, and what sort of light grease could I use for lubrication (ex. 3-in-One white lithium grease)?
I recently gave this player away to one of the guys who did my move. I had switched over to a SqueezeBox long ago, but I never realized that Denon had an R2R DAC. Well, that mover is one lucky SOB.
Zero Cool said:
Okay, I'll give that a try. Hopefully it will solve the issue for good.
ezkcdude said:
I agree... The Squeezebox 3's Burr-Brown PCM1748 DACs are no match for the PCM1702, though the parts in the DCM-560 aren't exactly as high-end as the DAC might require for the best performance. Incidentally, Denon has been using the PCM1748 as the main DAC in all of their multi-changers starting with the DCM-280/380.
I'm planning to buy an oscilloscope in order to eventually attempt repairing / calibrating the DCM-370. I've had an offer to buy a BK Precision 1477.
anatech had recommended a 20 MHz 'scope; will this 15 MHz model be accurate enough for my task?
anatech had recommended a 20 MHz 'scope; will this 15 MHz model be accurate enough for my task?
infinitesymph
Hi.
In case it helps. I've been servicing KSS-213 for years and they usually have two rather frequent problems; the laser dying, so a simple replacement solves it AND the rubber ring that holds the CD tray needs a replacement.
PD1, replacing that small rubber ring is a little tricky. Involves figuring out how to pull out a multiangular piece of plastic that slides to the side(once a little bit is slightly pulled out). Also when the ring is replaced, the actual alignment back of the CD tray has to be done very precisely straight, otherwise the tray will not move in or out...
PD2, you can find KSS-213 with metalised holders of the axe/rail that somehow last much longer. You can see what I am talking about at KSS-213D pictures. Actually I would recommend you use KSS-213D or higher instead 213C, because they are compatible with 'lower' 213 denominations (not viceversa) and they have thiner(and more precise) laser beams.
Hi.
In case it helps. I've been servicing KSS-213 for years and they usually have two rather frequent problems; the laser dying, so a simple replacement solves it AND the rubber ring that holds the CD tray needs a replacement.
IMHO that KSM design has this inherent flaw since that rubber ring does die quite frequently (particularly when hot ICs are closely located) and it is the only way this tray has to place the laser head module into precise altitude. Remember it moves down when the tray opens out and it goes up when the tray comes back in... With time it is not capable of returning back to its original position, or it rotates but slides out of grip and so the player starts to have problems reading the last tracks on the CDs.
PD1, replacing that small rubber ring is a little tricky. Involves figuring out how to pull out a multiangular piece of plastic that slides to the side(once a little bit is slightly pulled out). Also when the ring is replaced, the actual alignment back of the CD tray has to be done very precisely straight, otherwise the tray will not move in or out...
PD2, you can find KSS-213 with metalised holders of the axe/rail that somehow last much longer. You can see what I am talking about at KSS-213D pictures. Actually I would recommend you use KSS-213D or higher instead 213C, because they are compatible with 'lower' 213 denominations (not viceversa) and they have thiner(and more precise) laser beams.
Thank you for the information, djcl.ear!
The DCM-370 (actually a DCM-65, but same difference) has been gathering dust under my bed ever since I put it back together a couple years ago (and wound up with some extra screws... hmm....). I'll definitely add the KSS-213D and higher models to the list of possibilities to try.
I still don't understand why replacing the whole KSS-213C assembly didn't come any closer to solving the problem. It sort of indicated to me that either the KSS-213C or the player itself was set up in a precarious manner that made failure inevitable.
I haven't had any problems with the '94 DCM-560, but I'll bet it uses a different type of laser mechanism. I'll try to take a look at the model number the next time I open it up, since I never did have to add more grease (though it's probably still a good idea).
The DCM-370 (actually a DCM-65, but same difference) has been gathering dust under my bed ever since I put it back together a couple years ago (and wound up with some extra screws... hmm....). I'll definitely add the KSS-213D and higher models to the list of possibilities to try.
I still don't understand why replacing the whole KSS-213C assembly didn't come any closer to solving the problem. It sort of indicated to me that either the KSS-213C or the player itself was set up in a precarious manner that made failure inevitable.
I haven't had any problems with the '94 DCM-560, but I'll bet it uses a different type of laser mechanism. I'll try to take a look at the model number the next time I open it up, since I never did have to add more grease (though it's probably still a good idea).
You're wellcome.
I insist about the rubber ring, if enough dust is collected, it also stops working properly.
By mentioning 'The whole mechanism' above, you mean the whole KSM Piece?, including plastic tray, motors and all(only four screws and pins connectors) or just the KSS-213C laser replacement?
I have seen the whole KSM piece being offered cheap online a while ago, and installing the whole piece anew should be a handy way to replace the rubber ring... a tutorial would reveal how simple, but tricky this replacement is, it may exist somewhere.
////Sometimes when I have unplugged enough times the 16 pin conector, one of its 'metalised pins' wears out and it stops working, but a visual inspection should be enough to find out, the good news is that if that is the case, you may trim it a little with a sharp scissor and voila it works again ¡¡
Hope it helps
infinitesymph said:
I insist about the rubber ring, if enough dust is collected, it also stops working properly.
By mentioning 'The whole mechanism' above, you mean the whole KSM Piece?, including plastic tray, motors and all(only four screws and pins connectors) or just the KSS-213C laser replacement?
I have seen the whole KSM piece being offered cheap online a while ago, and installing the whole piece anew should be a handy way to replace the rubber ring... a tutorial would reveal how simple, but tricky this replacement is, it may exist somewhere.
////Sometimes when I have unplugged enough times the 16 pin conector, one of its 'metalised pins' wears out and it stops working, but a visual inspection should be enough to find out, the good news is that if that is the case, you may trim it a little with a sharp scissor and voila it works again ¡¡
Hope it helps
Uhmm
I just checked again post N2 in this thread and I saw the 'optical pickup' you show there.
It pbbly has the laser 'suspension system' in it so that rules out the rubber ring the standalone tray has instead (different to the 5 discs DCM-370 system)...
However a friend services multi-discs systems like yours (i dont) he mentioned they are also susceptible to wear out some other rubber ring that in those cases are difficult to find because their length is quite specific...
Luck on this
I just checked again post N2 in this thread and I saw the 'optical pickup' you show there.
It pbbly has the laser 'suspension system' in it so that rules out the rubber ring the standalone tray has instead (different to the 5 discs DCM-370 system)...
However a friend services multi-discs systems like yours (i dont) he mentioned they are also susceptible to wear out some other rubber ring that in those cases are difficult to find because their length is quite specific...
Luck on this
DCM-370 Problem
Hello!
I am having an issue with a friend's DCM-370 unit. It is a carousel model. I read this thread and some others but am still missing some information. I replaced the KSm-213CCM whole laser mech (incl laser) and 16-pin cable. It played great for a couple discs, but then started having the same problem it had before.
This problem is that it will read the toc fine, but on the first track will play a few seconds then make a sound similar to a turntable needle being pulled across a record, some thumps, then spin without reading.
This makes me think the problem wasn't with the laser mech in the first place. Djcl.ear mentinons a small rubber/plastic ring involved in raising and lowering the laser mech assy. I think he means its external to the mech. On this Denon, the plastic tray that holds the mech is raised by a large plastic ring in the carousel center (I think). It grabs a corner of the plastic tray.
I haven't tested the power supply or cables, but are those possibly at fault?
Thank you all very much!
Collin
Hello!
I am having an issue with a friend's DCM-370 unit. It is a carousel model. I read this thread and some others but am still missing some information. I replaced the KSm-213CCM whole laser mech (incl laser) and 16-pin cable. It played great for a couple discs, but then started having the same problem it had before.
This problem is that it will read the toc fine, but on the first track will play a few seconds then make a sound similar to a turntable needle being pulled across a record, some thumps, then spin without reading.
This makes me think the problem wasn't with the laser mech in the first place. Djcl.ear mentinons a small rubber/plastic ring involved in raising and lowering the laser mech assy. I think he means its external to the mech. On this Denon, the plastic tray that holds the mech is raised by a large plastic ring in the carousel center (I think). It grabs a corner of the plastic tray.
I haven't tested the power supply or cables, but are those possibly at fault?
Thank you all very much!
Collin
Hi I have an update. I lubricated the moving parts of the lifter, which consist of a drum section with a groove that picks up a corner of the laser mechanism. It appears to be operating well. With the same CD sometimes it reads TOC smoothly and can play, and sometimes it sounds like it's sluggish, then a series of clicks as the laser attempts to read, then it quits. I resoldered all the the cable connections (except the flat cable ones) since some of those joints were cracked. Have not cleaned the lens, but it is supposed to be a new, OEM part, from MCM.
When it's not working the CD appears to wobble. Could the new spindle motor need lubing or have bad bearings? The loader appears to work the same whether or not the CD can be read.
Since it's intermittent I am thinking it is a connection problem somewhere. I still need to do a thorough DeOxit round of all those cable connectors. Could it be the flexible cable on the laser itself? Any other ideas?
Thanks!
When it's not working the CD appears to wobble. Could the new spindle motor need lubing or have bad bearings? The loader appears to work the same whether or not the CD can be read.
Since it's intermittent I am thinking it is a connection problem somewhere. I still need to do a thorough DeOxit round of all those cable connectors. Could it be the flexible cable on the laser itself? Any other ideas?
Thanks!
Okay one last try at this Denon unit. I resoldered a bunch on questionable joints. I cleaned the internal connectors. I lubricated all the moving parts on the loader. I even identified a subtle wobble in the spindle and bent it gently back.
It plays better now, but still shows signs of the same illness. In the middle of tracks it will sound as though it's fast-forwarding, then make a series of 3-second-spaced clicks, then give up. This is a brand new OEM laser mech. Do you guys think it's a bad part? Some kind of logic or controller problem? A contact or cable problem inside?
Please help me out! I'm at the point where I need to send it to someone who knows, or tell my buddy he's in the market for a new player. Thank you very much!
Collin
It plays better now, but still shows signs of the same illness. In the middle of tracks it will sound as though it's fast-forwarding, then make a series of 3-second-spaced clicks, then give up. This is a brand new OEM laser mech. Do you guys think it's a bad part? Some kind of logic or controller problem? A contact or cable problem inside?
Please help me out! I'm at the point where I need to send it to someone who knows, or tell my buddy he's in the market for a new player. Thank you very much!
Collin
Thanks for your reply. It sounds as though I got a bad part. That, or the problem is much larger than I realized. I'll have to contact MCM.
Yesterday the player worked better as it kept going. I turned it off for bit then restarted it, and no workie. Makes me think it has to do with a solder joint, or something else thermal, like a transistor.
Thanks.Collin
Yesterday the player worked better as it kept going. I turned it off for bit then restarted it, and no workie. Makes me think it has to do with a solder joint, or something else thermal, like a transistor.
Thanks.Collin