I always try to clean the pistons as much as possible to help prevent them from sticking, also regularly bleeding off some of the old fluid that dwells around the higher temperatures, gives a firmer pedal.
Wouldn’t a Quaife differential be a good option for the E87/88? A bit pricey maybe...
Wouldn’t a Quaife differential be a good option for the E87/88? A bit pricey maybe...
Tony,
From one Fordy to another:
I drove the Escape to work.
I drove home.
That's it. That's my entire car story for the day.
I kinda miss the days when the vehicle would have a new noise every couple of days and you got to play Sherlock in the evenings. It made me feel useful.
Nah, who am I kidding?
From one Fordy to another:
I drove the Escape to work.
I drove home.
That's it. That's my entire car story for the day.
I kinda miss the days when the vehicle would have a new noise every couple of days and you got to play Sherlock in the evenings. It made me feel useful.
Nah, who am I kidding?
Quaife seems to be the go-to brand for BMW guys. I don't have much power in my E87 and don't track it (I used to have an E30 with oem LSD for that) so I haven't felt the need for one.
The DSC system does a ok job transfering torque to the other wheel on snow and ice.
It would be great to have one but I dont think it'd worth the investment on my current car.
anyway.
I did the denso 10PA17C compressor rebuild today. Actually I didn't. The new o-rings that I got in the kit were too small of a gauge for me to even bother putting them in, a cheaply made kit. I wouldn't recommend buying from them again.Anyway I saw that the original O-rings are still in great shape so I just ended up using nearly all of my bottle of Nylog Red and I reused the old O-rings. I cleaned the old O-rings with tissues and then liberally coated the old O-rings with Nylog Reg and put them back into place. All except for the rectangle manifold on top of the compressor which holds the inlet and outlet pipes, for that I ended up using the new gasket.
Unfortunately I accidentally pressed the shaft seal in the wrong way around and I had to force it back out with a flathead screwdriver, bending the metal in the process, so I will have to buy another new one of those (which isn't going to be cheap) and complete the rebuilding process. Oh well it is still cheaper than a new compressor. Still an expensive mistake.
The old O-rings are still in pretty good shape, the shaft seal however wasn't, that was where it was leaking, I know it was leaking there because the wick was soaked in rusty fluid. I don't know why they don't use two shaft seals instead of just one.
One thing to look out for if you ever do a rebuild on one of these is dirt and sand, I don't have a easy way of cleaning the compressor but I did a good job with degreaser and various sized wire brushes before I started still there was some dirt left around where the three parts of the casing of the compressor meet, and even the smallest minute amount of dirt and dust on the very edges of where the two parts of the casing of the compressor meet will end up putting dirt into the fragile and very sensitive areas of the compressor, the bearings and pistons/cylinder walls. So I meticulously went over every single square millimeter with a box of tissues and cleaned up any sort of dirt from the edges as I pulled the casings apart, I then dabbed my finger in the original compressor oil and relubed all of the piston walls and pistons and valves with the original compressor oil that it came with.
I strongly recommend doing this outside in the sun as it gives you a good eagle eyed view of where the dirt is and where to remove it from. I was extremely thorough.
I also followed the video instructions about how to rebuild a 10PA17C compressor thoroughly, and even then I still muffed up the shaft seal orientation. Still practice makes perfect and I don't ever need to pay a dime to an A/C repairman anymore.
I wore nitrile rubber gloves, one size fits all my butt.
I did the denso 10PA17C compressor rebuild today. Actually I didn't. The new o-rings that I got in the kit were too small of a gauge for me to even bother putting them in, a cheaply made kit. I wouldn't recommend buying from them again.Anyway I saw that the original O-rings are still in great shape so I just ended up using nearly all of my bottle of Nylog Red and I reused the old O-rings. I cleaned the old O-rings with tissues and then liberally coated the old O-rings with Nylog Reg and put them back into place. All except for the rectangle manifold on top of the compressor which holds the inlet and outlet pipes, for that I ended up using the new gasket.
Unfortunately I accidentally pressed the shaft seal in the wrong way around and I had to force it back out with a flathead screwdriver, bending the metal in the process, so I will have to buy another new one of those (which isn't going to be cheap) and complete the rebuilding process. Oh well it is still cheaper than a new compressor. Still an expensive mistake.
The old O-rings are still in pretty good shape, the shaft seal however wasn't, that was where it was leaking, I know it was leaking there because the wick was soaked in rusty fluid. I don't know why they don't use two shaft seals instead of just one.
One thing to look out for if you ever do a rebuild on one of these is dirt and sand, I don't have a easy way of cleaning the compressor but I did a good job with degreaser and various sized wire brushes before I started still there was some dirt left around where the three parts of the casing of the compressor meet, and even the smallest minute amount of dirt and dust on the very edges of where the two parts of the casing of the compressor meet will end up putting dirt into the fragile and very sensitive areas of the compressor, the bearings and pistons/cylinder walls. So I meticulously went over every single square millimeter with a box of tissues and cleaned up any sort of dirt from the edges as I pulled the casings apart, I then dabbed my finger in the original compressor oil and relubed all of the piston walls and pistons and valves with the original compressor oil that it came with.
I strongly recommend doing this outside in the sun as it gives you a good eagle eyed view of where the dirt is and where to remove it from. I was extremely thorough.
I also followed the video instructions about how to rebuild a 10PA17C compressor thoroughly, and even then I still muffed up the shaft seal orientation. Still practice makes perfect and I don't ever need to pay a dime to an A/C repairman anymore.
I wore nitrile rubber gloves, one size fits all my butt.
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I was referring to locking type differentials as to being worthless in slippery conditions, the garden variety limited slip (oem) are ok, but not great in the dry compared to a locker.
Saw a 4wd truck go to take off and go right off the crown of the road into the ditch, all while I drove by in my 1wd car.
If they were so great then why don’t they come as standard on all cars?
Saw a 4wd truck go to take off and go right off the crown of the road into the ditch, all while I drove by in my 1wd car.
If they were so great then why don’t they come as standard on all cars?
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If your car is 1wd then either you have a Morgan or you should get your differential fixed.
How did we get on to 4x4? How do you know the 4x4 had a locking differential, almost all factory 4x4 are open differential except for special models?
Are you asking why don't all cars have locking differentials or are 4x4? Let me ask why don't all cars have V-12s?
How did we get on to 4x4? How do you know the 4x4 had a locking differential, almost all factory 4x4 are open differential except for special models?
Are you asking why don't all cars have locking differentials or are 4x4? Let me ask why don't all cars have V-12s?
Just finished one of the worst jobs I've done on a car.
I was asked to help replacing a couple of broken exhaust manifold studs on a Ford V10 engine. 5 of the studs were snapped before I started. I had to snap the remaining 5 to remove the manifold.
Here's how it looked like after drilling out two bolts.
I used this kit to help center the bit and drill a pilot hole through the studs.
Great kit, but the supplied drill bits was worthless. I had to use HSS cobolt bits to get the job done.
I drilled all holes in steps 3.2mm - 5mm - 6mm - 7mm then re threaded the head with a m8x1.25 tap.
Here's the final result.
If someone outside my family asked me to do this job. I would refuse doing it for less then $2000. It was a real pain.
I was asked to help replacing a couple of broken exhaust manifold studs on a Ford V10 engine. 5 of the studs were snapped before I started. I had to snap the remaining 5 to remove the manifold.
Here's how it looked like after drilling out two bolts.
I used this kit to help center the bit and drill a pilot hole through the studs.
Great kit, but the supplied drill bits was worthless. I had to use HSS cobolt bits to get the job done.
I drilled all holes in steps 3.2mm - 5mm - 6mm - 7mm then re threaded the head with a m8x1.25 tap.
Here's the final result.
If someone outside my family asked me to do this job. I would refuse doing it for less then $2000. It was a real pain.
Attachments
Snow, ice and mud are the reason they exist.
More to do with what happens to a locking diff and tires in the wrong hands. My 1997 Mazda B-4000 had a locking front end. Imagine having that engaged on a dry road by someone not knowing better.
Yes, me too.
Thanks.
Not too bad, a bit stiff but that was cured with some beers in the evening.
The engine was installed in an RV, so I did the whole job sitting on my knees inside the wheel well.
It felt amazing to stand up and stretch after sitting 8 hours in the wheel well.
I'm still young (turning 30 this year) so I'm still flexible enough for this kind of gymnastics.
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I have never tried a locking diff in snow. A 25% LSD worked fine in snow. If you tried to start uphill, you would go sideways (instead of going nowhere/backwards) so you had to be aware of that. After you got the car rolling, it made the drive much easier.
I have driven RWD cars with 1wd in snow and ice since I got my drivers license and have learned where to stop. With proper winter tires you can get up most hills with 1WD, the problem is to get the car rolling. I prefer to stop/park on flat surfaces or at slight decline so that I can drive away freely. Since my cars only have 10cm ground clearance, I also try to avoid parking in deep snow.
It was a strange bird to say the least. It was a cross over year for that vehicle so they combined some things methinks. The diff was a electronic dash mounted switch rotary switch but it had manual hubs. Didn't Ford call it the Posi-track
Yes there’s a difference between locking hubs and the differential.
The “posi” and such differentials are limited slip units that utilize clutches(that wear out).
These are more all-weather friendly then the true locking type differentials.
Formula one cars use form of limited slip, have a more organic nature that promotes control.
Ever driven a car with a spool on the street?
I hate it when I forget and use the emergency brake in the freezing weather on certain cars.
The “posi” and such differentials are limited slip units that utilize clutches(that wear out).
These are more all-weather friendly then the true locking type differentials.
Formula one cars use form of limited slip, have a more organic nature that promotes control.
Ever driven a car with a spool on the street?
I hate it when I forget and use the emergency brake in the freezing weather on certain cars.